Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

11 hours ago, Joob said:

Yes 😋 I had seen that info on your link ty

 

If the warning light is damaged, it no longer reads with the alternator, right? And even then it lets the 12v pass through the green cable ?

Apologies Joob, I didn't mean to mislead you, I spent too much time looking for that link again that you already had and were editing into your post as I was linking it into mine.  😄  I was just off to bed when I saw you posted again and could not remember how to link to the post instead of the thread. and kept linking to the thread.  I should have went to bed earlier. 😄

 

Guys, I have already found the problem.

 

I did the green cable test (nta16 thanks for the link and the tip of green cable), connected it to the negative and it did indeed turn on the battery light (on the panel).

That is, as I had already changed the regulator (new) and still did not work, the problem is definitely the alternator, I will order a new one.

If it still doesn't work I'll let you know here 😛 (with the new one) kakak

 

Thanks to Everyone for the Help !

Edited 26 September, 20223 yr by Joob

On 25/09/2022 at 08:51, KenONeill said:

I've never experienced a "blown bulb" on a car with control wires.

 

I have, one bulb ''burned'' (was for the beam) inside the dashboard.

Edited 26 September, 20223 yr by D.FYLAKTOS

Guys, did u see how to change this alternador ? 

I didn't see the regulator of tensor.

 

 

Under of alternator ?

 

Something is WRONG, the belt must not be under the pulley !

The grooves must touch the pulley, now it's in reverse, who did this? 😲

The arrow shows the tension pulley, from there you can make things ''loose'' and work for example change the belt etc.

With the help of a lever and a hexagon socket you push a little bit and you have the proper cm to work.

 

 

 

No, that type of post is very different from mine...mine is from a European car, that's why it changes for sure.
The tensioner on this belt should be the pulley with the letter T.

 

 

Then I will have to relieve the tensioner to loosen the mail, it is like the timing belt in cars.

I thought this alternator had a manual regulator and then bolt it on at the same time.

 

From the little that I can see from the photograph:

 

It is a different set up to the diagram and does not have the AC pump. (first diagram, joobs reply overlapped mine)

 

The poly V's on the belt are in contact with the pulley.

 

The roller shown is an idler pulley, it may be a sprung tensioner pulley or if it is fixed then belt adjustment would be effected by rotating the alternator on the pivot bolt shown.

 

The latter i am unsure of from a small photo and not knowing the engine set up.

Edited 29 September, 20223 yr by J.R.

yeah, it's like me, I've never touched this belt on this engine, I've changed the head gasket etc... but never the belt 😛

10 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Something is WRONG, the belt must not be under the pulley !

The grooves must touch the pulley, now it's in reverse, who did this? 😲

 

No, it's how it should be, it's how it came out of factory. Grooves must not touch the pulley - but kits that added pump or compressor above the alternator often used non-standard solutions.

 

On 28/09/2022 at 16:56, Joob said:

Guys, did u see how to change this alternador ? 

I didn't see the regulator of tensor.

 

 

Under of alternator ?

 

 

Yes, under the alternator is a black cylinder with short shaft poking out of it. You need an open ended spanner to release the tensioner.

12 hours ago, Papez said:

 

No, it's how it should be, it's how it came out of factory. Grooves must not touch the pulley - but kits that added pump or compressor above the alternator often used non-standard solutions.

 

 

I have never seen in the past a Felicia belt this way that's why i reacted, here is mine, not good photos but due to A/C and power steering wheel things look different.

 

 

 

13 hours ago, Papez said:

Yes, under the alternator is a black cylinder with short shaft poking out of it. You need an open ended spanner to release the tensioner.

 

oh great, and the tensioner is under the alternator is that it ? ty

check if is here

 

 

I am just waiting for the material to arrive, around Monday, and when I assemble it, I will tell you the final result of the problem.

 

 

Edited 30 September, 20223 yr by Joob
new image

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

 

I have never seen in the past a Felicia belt this way that's why i reacted, here is mine, not good photos but due to A/C and power steering wheel things look different.

 

 

 

 

It really is totally different from mine.

Mine doesn't have air conditioning, it only has heating.

 

This picture is not of my car, but it looks just like my car.

 

 

--------------------------

 

Check the mine alternator/belt.

 

 

 

Edited 30 September, 20223 yr by Joob

6 minutes ago, Joob said:

 

oh great, and the tensioner is under the alternator is that it ? ty

 

Yes, it's hidden under the alternator and routes the belt away from the crankshaft pulley and back to the coolant pump. 

 

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

have never seen in the past a Felicia belt this way that's why i reacted, here is mine, not good photos but due to A/C and power steering wheel things look different.

 

Yep, these conversions usually used the pulley pictured on Joob's photo to wrap the belt around the extra pulley, but on the factory setup, it was used as additional support between the alternator and coolant pump, probably to reduce vibrations.

 

4 minutes ago, Papez said:

Yes, it's hidden under the alternator and routes the belt away from the crankshaft pulley and back to the coolant pump. 

 

Ohh I saw a picture of the engine from the side.

Just ease the pulley further out on the right side ?

 

 

 

17 minutes ago, Joob said:

Ohh I saw a picture of the engine from the side.

Just ease the pulley further out on the right side ?

 

 

 

The belt goes like this in the car, you need to move the pulley to the left (towards the coolant pump/crankshaft).

You need a spanner to turn the shaft poking through tensioner spring assembly (yellow arrow)

Oh great dude ! ty  

On the other hand, it is like this.

 

 

I just need a spanner where the red arrow is now, to rotate the shaft.

 

 

I have never swapped on this machine before.

Very thkss for the info !

 

 

 

I have this picture here.
For example, I loosen the screw and with a wrench (that black part that is around the screw.), I turn the tensioner downwards (or to one side), and it loses a little tension, right? and as soon as I release it, it gains tension, right?

 

 

Belt Tensioner Pulley, How to replace.

 

 

 

Isn't the same with your engine?

Great Guys..

Thanks to all of you for the tips/help.
The problem was solved, new alternator and new belt, flawless engine and 14.20v TOP !

 

You can check here

https://golink.co/share/ewsI37Md1JwM0lmK

Password:  123

 

Edited 7 October, 20223 yr by Joob

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

If you've been using the car regularly since the alternator problem started I would also now check the state of charge of the battery.

 

Even though it is a new battery it is still just an energy store so if a lot more has been taken out from it than is put back in it will be discharged to some extent, the fact that it is new has benefits though.

 

To check will only take a few minutes at most and is easy, after the car has been sitting for a few hours, or better still the next morning or day from it being driven, do not start the engine, put the headlights on for say 20-30 seconds then switch them off and take a reading, you can then see if and what recharging might be required, if any.

 

in the UK at least, we are now into cooler weather and less daylight and with even less daylight and more cold to come I think it is best to have the car battery prepared sooner rather than later then you can forget about it in normal circumstances.

 

Edited 11 October, 20223 yr by nta16
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