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Replaced blower resistor and still not working


Michebelle

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2 hours ago, Michebelle said:

This is impossible 😭

I've removed the fascia panel and the only screw I can see holding the unit in place. Someone's been here before me because the corner clips are damaged. I can't lever the unit out. There are no end of clips holding it in place but even with an extra pair of hands and both of us going at it, it will not come out.

Have I missed something? I'm following the schematic and the only thing I haven't got is 2 screws at 3.1 point 5, labelled 7 on the diagram.

 

I think those screws go into the underside of the heater control unit and to get at them you need to take the radio out and the lower dash trim off below.  If you can get the radio out I'd be tempted to check the connectors at the back of the unit are seated properly, which you can probay do without removing it once that lower dash trim panel is off by putting you hand in round the back of the heater control unit through the hole left by the radio? 

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Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

I'm with varooom, more photos would help, from further back and close up, if others have been there before and parts are damaged things may not be as 'book' or factory.  I couldn't follow which screws were being referred to in varooom's attachment (but I'm not always quickest to catch on).

 

Edited by nta16
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Before trying to remove the heater controls, as this is proving to be a pain, might be good to purchase/use a multimeter to probe the wires for the motor to see if electric is getting to it.

If it get's power, the motor might have an issue.

If no power reaches the motor, then look at getting the heater controls tested/out.

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Just tagged onto this topic. Sounds like my ordeal a couple of years ago when my blower fan resistors kept blowing. Look at my posts. Because my local dealership 

faffed about they missed the one thing I asked them to do, ie check the wiring loom as I had covered all other possible causes of the blower fan failure.

 

A local independent VW group specialist workshop found the chafed wire behind the dash which was drawing a huge current through the resistor to earth. I posted a photo of it. Good luck in finding  your fault and fixing it.

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  • 4 weeks later...

So I did some quick tests with the multimeter and power is getting to the fan and the motor and the fuse is all good.

I bought a new switch and replaced that too. I still have no heater...

Not sure what to do next. Was going to try to get the motor out and have a look at that. I can't get the glove box away to release the motor housing. That's a job for another day. According to autodata a common fault is carbon build up on the motor. It says to run the heater on the highest setting to burn off the carbon. I was hoping to have it working by now 😭

PXL_20230125_104706838.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi,

If you have replaced the resistor and checked some of the wiring and fuses, I would start checking again, in case I have missed something.

1. Is there power from the actual switch out?

2. Does the blower work if you put 12V straight onto the blower - you need 2 cables for this. 12V and earth.

3. Is your resistor still working? If the fan motor draws a huge current because it has failed the resistor can blow again.

4. Do the wires from the switch to the resistor and from the resistor to the fan have consistency?

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To Michebelle,

my iphone just pinged with your message from this forum.

 

Firstly. this section is for the Octavia Mark 2. My car is a TDi MkII facelift so I think straight away your posting on the wrong section.

 

Your photos are of no use to me if you have a Roomster Scout.

 

I don't know where the blower motor or its ancillary electrical items are on your car and the fuse panel bears no resemblance to an Octavia one.

 

Have you read my full postings and viewed my photos of the cause of my blower fan problems ? Suffice to say that on my Octavia nearly everything except the wiring behind the dash panel is easily accessible and I was lucky in that I could afford the time and effort to have my car off the road for a couple of weeks while the fault was discovered.

 

Either be prepared to perform an extensive strip down of the dash  to get to the wiring to do a comprehensive check of the blower fan circuits or take it to a local

 

reputable independent VW group repair and service workshop that has factory trained technicians and the up to date VCDS.  Don't rely on Franchised dealers to 

 

investigate your fault, I have lost faith in the VW workshop schedules which the mechanics are tied to and they do not do what you ask from my experience.

 

Sorry I cannot be of more help with a Roomster. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

On 05/02/2023 at 15:52, StarwarsNerd said:

Firstly. this section is for the Octavia Mark 2. My car is a TDi MkII facelift so I think straight away your posting on the wrong section.

 

Your photos are of no use to me if you have a Roomster Scout.

 

? I'm confused, this is - General SKODA Forum - General Maintenance, not Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013).

 

Edited by nta16
ETA: Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.
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