Hi all,

 

So I have this strange issue when trying to start the engine.

 

I insert the key, turn once to power on and all is fine. When I turn the key again to start the engine, the electrical power to the interior dies and all lights on the dash go out. The starter motor does not turn. The clock also resets so I guess it must be total power loss.

 

When I release the key from the starting position, the dash lights return, although they can be flickery before returning to normal.. 

 

So for a minute for 2 I remove the key and try again, same thing happens. Each time varying dash lights can be on. Sometimes the fuel gauge goes crazy and moves all the way round. 

 

And once when i turned the key to the off position to remove it, a warning sign flashed on stating "Immobiliser Active".

 

The behaviour can be seen in the video below which I just took. There are a couple of chapter markers showing the fuel gauge going wonky and the immobilizer light.

 

This problem will happen for a minute or 2, then suddenly the car will start as normal. This has happened 3 times in the last month. So it's a very intermittent problem.

 

Any tips on what it might be or where I should begin investigating? 

 

Cheers!

Jason

 

 

 

It's probably a bad connection on the battery, check they're well greased and tight.

Also check the earth cable connection at the wing end as this is the only way the batteries electrical circuit is completed through the car. If you have a set of jump leads, use one connected to the battery earth terminal with the other end clamped on the engine metal somewhere giving an additional earth circuit and try starting.

Thanks for the replies, I'll re-grease the battery terminals and if this happens again, I'll try the additional earth connection to see if it then works.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

On 27/01/2023 at 06:00, Fab19 said:

Thanks for the replies, I'll re-grease the battery terminals and if this happens again, I'll try the additional earth connection to see if it then works.

There's no need to grease the battery terminal posts but do check the battery terminal posts and the, inside particularly, of the battery post clamps are clean and that they're secure.  You could if you want to protect the outside of the battery clamps and exposed top of battery posts.

 

The earth connection at the wing, you could check it is secure or disconnect it to check it's clean and clean as required, protect as wanted.

 

Edited 29 January, 20233 yr by nta16
ETA: strike through to please my superior

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

There's no need to grease the battery terminal posts but do check the battery terminal posts and the, inside particularly, of the battery post clamps are clean and that they're secure but don't overtighten.  You could if you want to protect the outside of the battery clamps and exposed top of battery posts.

 

The earth connection at the wing, you could check it is secure or disconnect it to check it's clean and clean as required, protect as wanted.

 

 

It is necessary to grease the posts otherwise you'll end up with lots of electrolytic corrosion and battery posts which are covered in white lead oxide powder, this leads to undersize posts which will no longer accept standard clamps and the battery will be scrap.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

20 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

It is necessary to grease the posts otherwise you'll end up with lots of electrolytic corrosion and battery posts which are covered in white lead oxide powder, this leads to undersize posts which will no longer accept standard clamps and the battery will be scrap.

You probably won't believe this but I didn't see your post until after I had posted, I was relying to Fab19's post.

 

To clarify there's no need to grease the battery posts (to clamp connections, inside of the clamps), if you want to fine but there's no need, some apply grease to the outside of the combined connection of clamp to post, can get debris to it though.

 

I used to apply to battery posts until I read it wasn't required, from a battery supplier or manufacturer I forget which now, and since then I've not bothered and I not had lots of electrolytic corrosion or noticed any.

 

Edited 29 January, 20233 yr by nta16
speeling and stuff

4 hours ago, nta16 said:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

but don't overtighten.

 

 Is there a worry of squeezing the round post out of the top of the clamp?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

49 minutes ago, KeithCheetham said:

 Is there a worry of squeezing the round post out of the top of the clamp?

Best I say I was thinking more of good form and practice.

 

Do see some murder-tight and pinched posts but it's no big thing, anyone who wants to can tighten as much as they want.

 

I prefer things are not overtight to me as I have weak wrists.

 

ETA: Thinking about it I'll remove it, without giving more details, if and buts it's all like going into don't swallowing the socket or spanner.  

 

Edited 28 January, 20233 yr by nta16
ETA:

Best practice is to lightly grease the posts before fitting the clamps, I have no idea why you wouldn't bother since dry fitting offers no advantages whatsoever.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

15 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

I have no idea why you wouldn't bother since dry fitting offers no advantages whatsoever.

If there's no disadvantage then why bother messing about with messy grease, if anyone wants to then fine, whatever floats yer boat.

 

36 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

If there's no disadvantage then why bother messing about with messy grease, if anyone wants to then fine, whatever floats yer boat.

 

 

There is a disadvantage, you can get electrolytic corrosion due to condensation forming between the warm battery and the cold clamp, grease completely eliminates this.

I doubt the battery expert you spoke to could even spell electrolytic.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

7 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

I doubt the battery expert you spoke to could even spell electrolytic.

Well we all make mistakes in reading and writing, even the best of you. 😊

 

19 hours ago, nta16 said:

until I read it wasn't required, from a battery supplier or manufacturer

 

I think I'll bow to your superiority, that should please you, your need to be right is greater than mine on this occasion but who knows in the future.  May your grease pot go with you.  😁

 

20 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Well we all make mistakes in reading and writing, even the best of you. 😊

 

 

I think I'll bow to your superiority, that should please you, your need to be right is greater than mine on this occasion but who knows in the future.  May your grease pot go with you.  😁

 

 

You're mistaken, it's about giving best advice, I've explained it to you, you must have been a professional once so you really should understand my point.

What happens if you connect another vehicle ?  (jump leads)

 

As mentioned I would be checking battery terminals and then also starter motor connections.

Since i cleaned the battery terminals (the seemed a little oxidized with some off-white deposits present) the problem hasn't recurred. So thanks for the advice.

 

If it does happen again, I will remove the earth connection at the wing and clean that up too. But so far, so good!

I was a marine Radio Officer many many years ago. All our communication electrical system was supplied by two huge banks of lead acid batteries, one supplying the transmitters and receivers, the other, on charge from the ships mains. Every day we swapped them over from Duty to Charge. Batteries were a HUGE part of our  maintenance training. We were taught to clean a sulphated battery terminal with boiling water, dry, then smear with Vaseline (I had a 5 gallon tub) before fitting the busbar connectors. These were not to be overtightened to avoid distortion.

Fab 19. I think you have probably done what was required to resolve the issue.