Hello everyone, I am new to the group and forum, but I have benefited from information that I have found here in the past, so I thought I would ask my own question.
(I have searched the forum as best I can, but could not find information specific to my problem)

The central locking on my Fabia MKii TDI Greenline (Engine identifier code BMS) has quit working, some wires were shorting in the drivers door loom, and after taking a photo of the broken/damaged wires the central locking was no longer working. Neither the key or with the fob would activate the central locking system.

The loom has been replaced by a mechanic, but the central locking system shows "No communication" (according to my mechanic)
Which part(s) might I need and how much is that likely to set me back?

 

Many thanks.

Also,
The interior lock/unlock button quit working at the same time.

Check fuse 45 in the cabin fusebox. (15 Amp rated)

50 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Check fuse 45 in the cabin fusebox. (15 Amp rated)

Thank you Pete, that was a faster response than I was anticipating.
The fuse is not blown. (Checked visually, and checked by swapping with a different 15 amp fuse from the fuse box) I see that fuse is for the CCU, is that likely the part needing replaced? 

It's possible, but I would want to be sure that the problem isn't residual from the loom change before spending anything on parts. Do you have written info on what new loom part number was fitted, and can you share the vehicle VIN with me (by PM if preferred) so I can cross-check what should be there, please?

There are several loom variants. 

 

1 minute ago, Breezy_Pete said:

It's possible, but I would want to be sure that the problem isn't residual from the loom change before spending anything on parts. Do you have written info on what new loom part number was fitted, and can you share the vehicle VIN with me (by PM if preferred) so I can cross-check what should be there, please?

There are several loom variants. 

 

I don't have a Loom PN, it is slightly complicated, but it was a warranty repair as I had just purchased this car, the change was due to a problem that surfaced when I was collecting the car (windows working intermittently but yes, I will send you the VIN momentarily. 

17 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

It's possible, but I would want to be sure that the problem isn't residual from the loom change before spending anything on parts. Do you have written info on what new loom part number was fitted, and can you share the vehicle VIN with me (by PM if preferred) so I can cross-check what should be there, please?

There are several loom variants. 

 

Existing Loom was repaired rather than replaced. (just got a message from the mechanic) 

I've just changed the loom on the drivers door of the Fabia I've "inherited".

 

Exactly the same issues as you describe, windows and door locking intermittent and then totally non-functional.

 

A relatively easy job to to do, once replaced there were no codes or errors kicked up when checked.

The loom was ordered from the local dealer - £120, and it was done in less than an hour. And I am totally hamfisted!!

I originally thought I'd have a go at a repair, but the original loom was completely knackered - 5 broken wires in the protective rubber sleeve in the hinge area. It would have been possible but taken an age to fix.

 

Worth replacing for the peace of mind.

@killysprint does your car have radio remote central locking, or just key-operated?

 

The fact that it doesn't work via the fob on the OP's car makes me think it can't be just the driver's door loom, as I think the other doors would still lock/unlock with the fob if it were?

remote - from the key fob.

 

I'm new to this...  the key fob has to be pressed quickly twice to open the other doors, to be honest never really tried this before the replacement loom was fitted, and had to use the key before I replaced the loom.  Works fine now.

 

Was shocked at the state of the loom in the rubber bellows. Aside from the broken wires, there were others where the insulation had broken and the copper core showing.  Ok the car is 12 years old but has only done 50k miles.

 

I have the "S" so has none of the fripperies the higher spec models have - just front electric windows and central locking, but the loom I received had all of the connections for the other accessories on it for the price.

 

 

Ta.

 @CanadianClimber, I guess if you can't lock all the doors via C/L at the moment you can't double-press unlock to see if the other doors unlock?

So maybe they would; if you see what I mean? I guess you can manually lock the passenger front door with the button from inside though, then try? I guess the rear doors don't have buttons?

Are the windows currently working reliably?

Edited 2 August, 20232 yr by Breezy_Pete

39 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Ta.

 @CanadianClimber, I guess if you can't lock all the doors via C/L at the moment you can't double-press unlock to see if the other doors unlock?

So maybe they would; if you see what I mean? I guess you can manually lock the passenger front door with the button from inside though, then try? I guess the rear doors don't have buttons?

Are the windows currently working reliably?

|Hi Pete,

Thanks for this.
Yes, the windows work reliably, rear windows are manual operation only.
Double clicking the remote doesn't work, (as you have guessed if I read your most recent reply correctly) turning the key twice in the drivers door doesn't work to unlock any other doors, interior lock/unlock button in the center console doesn't lock or unlock the other doors.
Also the antitheft light on the drivers door (which would usually flash judging by my previous Fabia/VW/Audi family cars) is out all the time.

I am currently manually locking all three other doors with the inbuilt manual lock function (accessed by the trailing side panel of each door) and manually locking the drivers door with the key.

 

/Scott
 

Edited 2 August, 20232 yr by CanadianClimber

Have you got a spare fob and if so have you tried that?

 

Yes, I have 2 keys, both of them worked prior to the wiring fault, neither of them work after.

I agree that it seems more like a central/global control issue rather than directly connected to the driver's door wiring.
The assumption that I am making in this regard is that the central locking control (or central convenience unit(?)) is not located inside the door, and therefore not as affected by the driver's door loom.
If it were in the door, then the wiring could have a bigger impact on the lock function.
Which leads me to think that it's an issue with the central locking/convenience unit, all four doors worked prior to the wires shorting, none of them worked after. this didn't change when the door loom was repaired (not replaced)

That's the assumption that I'm making, and I could be wrong. 

Everything stopped working in the space of minutes when I was pulling the boot on the driver's door loom to investigate the wiring condition. 

Windows worked intermittently before, all door locks worked, nothing worked after.
Windows work after the loom repair. 

Yes, on your car car the control module that does the central locking is the central convenience unit, known as J393 in wiring documents, and module #46 in VCDS.

It would be nice to try to connect to that with VCDS, not sure what type of reader was used to see the 'No communication' reported by your mechanic?

 

Any chance of a photo showing the fuse 45 location that you've checked? It's been known for the owners manual to mislead via images of left hand drive fusebox which may have different orientation.

Not sure what code reader was used by my mechanic, I checked both with the fuse legend, and with the fuse numbers in the fuse box, so I'm fairly certain it's correct, but I can get a photo uploaded in a bit.
 

/Scott

Should be top row, 4th from right of the full size blades, in my head?

Edit: Yep, can see the numbers now I'm on a big screen

Edited 2 August, 20232 yr by Breezy_Pete

43 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Should be top row, 4th from right of the full size blades, in my head?

Edit: Yep, can see the numbers now I'm on a big screen

That's right, that is the one I checked and swapped out.

 

👍

Have you got a multimeter you could use to check that the visible metal strips on the top of the fuse are both at 12V?

 

Yes I can do that. In about an hour when I can get back home. 

Another thing maybe worth checking, if you are happy to take the door card off, is to check whether the door lock connector is installed correctly. It's possible that if the loom was removed to repair it, it may not have been plugged back into the lock. I must admit, I wouldn't expect this to affect the fob-triggered locking/unlocking of other doors though.

On mk2 I believe there's a fabric (plastic?) patch that can be peeled back at the top corner of the door to give access to the lock connection.

Yes 12v dc on each side of the fuse.

Yeah thats correct, it's a sheet of closed cell foam like material.

 

I don't mind removing the door panel, but that really shouldn't (I wouldn't think) cause this sort of fault, the other doors should still work.

 

/Scott