4 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Yep, message me if you don't wish to post it. 👍

Have sent it across, thank you

The ones that aren't greyed out should be on your engine. 038919081H seems like the correct brown one. £15.33 inc VAT at dealer. I guess the green one is the one that's physically located away from brown and blue.

Just noticed that the green one is listed as 2-pin, that's unusual. Does it fit into plastic?

4 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

The ones that aren't greyed out should be on your engine. 038919081H seems like the correct brown one. £15.33 inc VAT at dealer. I guess the green one is the one that's physically located away from brown and blue.

 

Those codes for green/blue are the correct ones installed, the brown is not.

 

It shares the same part number - but not the same bar range.

 

Will have to order and try that.

 

Thank you

 

6 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Just noticed that the green one is listed as 2-pin, that's unusual. Does it fit into plastic?

 

Yeah IIRC it was 2 pin, and it did fit.

1 hour ago, TheClient said:

Yes. I'd try a genuine one if - when you remove the connector and cycle the ignition and the ecu reports reduced oil pressure sensor - open circuit fault!  

Have just done this, see attached.

 

After looking at the code, every post says a sensor fixed the issue for them. 

 

Edited 30 October, 20232 yr by vRSRutty

7 minutes ago, vRSRutty said:

Have just done this, see attached.

Not really what I expected. Presumably the oil pressure switch malfunction is from before and you didn't clear? Before trying car with connector  disconnected? 29.10-  2.03pm date stamp.

 

The other error, I think is an ecu relay or starter fault. Is that time date stamp correct? 10.38am this morning? Maybe that is a red herring.

 

You could retry by clearing codes. Turning off ignition. Disconnecting brown sender plug. Turning on ignition  and if nothing still shows start engine. Keep hands amd connector away from ancillary belt and pulleys. Re run scan.. 

 

Or...  just get on with trying a new replacement. Genuine would be good but the hella aftermarket seems to match. 

 

The hella after market lists 0.55 - 0.85 bar as well. Part no is one of many cross referenced. If you can't get to a dealer for vw or skoda part. .

 

1 minute ago, TheClient said:

Not really what I expected. Presumably the oil pressure switch malfunction is from before and you didn't clear? Before trying car with connector  disconnected? 29.10-  2.03pm date stamp.

 

The other error, I think is an ecu relay or starter fault. Is that time date stamp correct? 10.38am this morning? Maybe that is a red herring.

 

You could retry by clearing codes. Turning off ignition. Disconnecting brown sender plug. Turning on ignition  and if nothing still shows start engine. Keep hands amd connector away from ancillary belt and pulleys. Re run scan.. 

 

Or...  just get on with trying a new replacement. Genuine would be good but the hella aftermarket seems to match. 

 

The hella after market lists 0.55 - 0.85 bar as well. Part no is one of many cross referenced. If you can't get to a dealer for vw or skoda part. .

 

 

That time correlates with when the Oil Light came on yesterday afternoon while

I was driving.

 

And yes I've never seen that before but I did change some settings within Carista so I presume it's to do with that.

 

Actually thinking now, it could be my auto start-stop, I've turned it off via Carista.

 

Have tried clearing codes, short to ground disappeared but the exact same sensor one came back once the engine was running.

 

 

41 minutes ago, vRSRutty said:

 

Have tried clearing codes, short to ground disappeared but the exact same sensor one came back once the engine was running.

 

 

Oh, ok. Even with oil pressure switch connector off? Same code still produced - no change? Makes me suspect wiring but you’ve come this far you may as well try a replacement brown oil pressure switch!! 

7 minutes ago, TheClient said:

Oh, ok. Even with oil pressure switch connector off? Same code still produced - no change? Makes me suspect wiring but you’ve come this far you may as well try a replacement brown oil pressure switch!! 

 

Yep, strange isn't it? Wondering if it's a dirty connection or something, have some brake cleaner in the garage so tomorrow will attempt to clean it.
 

Will keep you posted.

46 minutes ago, vRSRutty said:

 

Yep, strange isn't it? Wondering if it's a dirty connection or something, have some brake cleaner in the garage so tomorrow will attempt to clean it.
 

Will keep you posted.

Worth a shot. You could also try to ground out the connector by back probing the pin with a wire and connecting it to anything metal on the engine. See if the code changes. 

16 minutes ago, TheClient said:

Worth a shot. You could also try to ground out the connector by back probing the pin with a wire and connecting it to anything metal on the engine. See if the code changes. 

The replacement should be here tomorrow, so will try that straight away.

 

Failing that, cleaning it. 

 

Failing that, £££

 

Fingers crossed

@Breezy_Pete @TheClient
 

Update:

 

Replaced the brown switch - the oil light now comes on a lot less often but still happens once or twice. 

 

Goes into EPC mode more frequently now - 9/10 times over 4k revs, scanned it and it came back with the blue switch malfunctioning too - replaced the blue switch but no difference.

 

At a dead end so have booked it in with a VAG specialist at the end of the month.

 

Have a feeling it's going to be expensive.

3 hours ago, vRSRutty said:

@Breezy_Pete @TheClient
 

Update:

 

Replaced the brown switch - the oil light now comes on a lot less often but still happens once or twice. 

 

Goes into EPC mode more frequently now - 9/10 times over 4k revs, scanned it and it came back with the blue switch malfunctioning too - replaced the blue switch but no difference.

 

At a dead end so have booked it in with a VAG specialist at the end of the month.

 

Have a feeling it's going to be expensive.

Mmm. Off the cuff I wonder whether 1) the oil pump is faulty or 2) the oil control valve solenoid, that control the pump switching between reduced and normal pressure is faulty.. Will think a bit more but don't think I'll come up with anything more. The fact that normal oil pressure switch is now reporting a problem, suggests to me there is something not right, not just the sensor itself... 

3 hours ago, TheClient said:

Mmm. Off the cuff I wonder whether 1) the oil pump is faulty or 2) the oil control valve solenoid, that control the pump switching between reduced and normal pressure is faulty.. Will think a bit more but don't think I'll come up with anything more. The fact that normal oil pressure switch is now reporting a problem, suggests to me there is something not right, not just the sensor itself... 

Funny you say that, contacted another VAG specialist and they said either the oil pump or oil relief valve.

16 hours ago, vRSRutty said:

Funny you say that, contacted another VAG specialist and they said either the oil pump or oil relief valve.

 

This is an interesting and very relevant thread in reddit. Sounds almost exactly to replicate your experience.

 

The golf gti engine is virtually the same.

 

I've also read the explanation of functions in the ea888 g3 study guide and  brown and blue switches and failure is as follows.

1. reduced oil pressure (brown switch) - effect of failure oil pump goes to full power mode only. DTC Fault recorded. Oil lamp

2. oil pressure switch failure. - effect of failure -  dtc fault logged - oil lamp.

 

 

Update for anyone who stumbles upon this: I put an oil pressure gauge on the car over the weekend and found that the pressures are totally within spec. Drove it around under the same conditions that usually triggers the light and found that the oil pressure was steady at 23 psi, and occasionally dipped for a split second to maybe 20 psi then back to 23 when accelerating. Hard acceleration made the system go into high pressure regulation mode, and the pressure would stick at around 50 psi until letting off the throttle. So looks like this is a switch problem. The minimum pressure you should ever see according to the service manual (for engine code CXCA) is around 17 psi, and the low pressure switch supposedly goes off around 12 psi. So the switch is probably shot.

I think both the reduced oil pressure (brown) and the oil pressure (blue) switches are bad, as in my research I found that the brown switch causes the oil pressure light to go off, and the blue switch causes the EPC light/limp mode (but not the oil pressure light) to go off. I'll replace both switches today and see what happens. My suspicion is that the switches were damaged in the past due to there being fuel in the oil, as the car had a hard start problem in the past that was introducing a small amount of fuel to the oil on crank.

 

UPDATE: Replacing both the oil pressure switches (blue and brown) fixed the issue! Have not had the light come back on for a few weeks now.

 

 

 

I'll try to post the study guid oil supply explanation sections later as well,  as it is a decent read..

 

For the cost, if it was me still trying to get through this, I'd try relacing the full power pressure switch (blue) as well. Ruling that out. As there is interaction between the two pressure switches and  the N428 oil control valve in the event of "faulty" switches.

 

The N428 oil control valve (on front crankcase - need to remove vbelt and probably drain oil partially at least)   could be faulty as well perhaps - mentioned in previous post - if it was sticking in one mode or the other sometimes even briefly,  It would mean the pump cold be in the wrong pressure mode compared to what the ECU is expecting (asking) for pressure wise. 

 

The other thing that has caught people out with oil pressure issues on EA888 gen 3s,  (but usually results in a permanent and immediate oil pressure problem) is the anti drain valve in the oil filter housing. It is a sort of stick assembly that goes down into the bottom of the oil filter housing and there were at least two different versions.

 

One had a spring tensioner the other just a ball joint stick pressed into the top of the oil filter case. But both feature a oring or dual oring seal at the important end to seal the drain hole.   It gets pulled out when you change the oil filter (for the oil to escape). If that gets damaged, broken or the o ring gets leaky, it will leak pressure. If the stick gets broken it might not be retained to seal properly.   It is pretty easy to check this when car engine cool and you won't need to drain the oil. just take the oil filter housing cover off slowly and allow the oil to drain down.

 

Hope this might help, but keep us updated even if it is the garage who takes it forward!

 

Edit: oil supply pdf self study guide attached.

EA888 OIL Supply.pdf

Edited 3 November, 20232 yr by TheClient

17 minutes ago, TheClient said:

 

This is an interesting and very relevant thread in reddit. Sounds almost exactly to replicate your experience.

 

The golf gti engine is virtually the same.

 

I've also read the explanation of functions in the ea888 g3 study guide and  brown and blue switches and failure is as follows.

1. reduced oil pressure (brown switch) - effect of failure oil pump goes to full power mode only. DTC Fault recorded. Oil lamp

2. oil pressure switch failure. - effect of failure -  dtc fault logged - oil lamp.

 

 

Update for anyone who stumbles upon this: I put an oil pressure gauge on the car over the weekend and found that the pressures are totally within spec. Drove it around under the same conditions that usually triggers the light and found that the oil pressure was steady at 23 psi, and occasionally dipped for a split second to maybe 20 psi then back to 23 when accelerating. Hard acceleration made the system go into high pressure regulation mode, and the pressure would stick at around 50 psi until letting off the throttle. So looks like this is a switch problem. The minimum pressure you should ever see according to the service manual (for engine code CXCA) is around 17 psi, and the low pressure switch supposedly goes off around 12 psi. So the switch is probably shot.

I think both the reduced oil pressure (brown) and the oil pressure (blue) switches are bad, as in my research I found that the brown switch causes the oil pressure light to go off, and the blue switch causes the EPC light/limp mode (but not the oil pressure light) to go off. I'll replace both switches today and see what happens. My suspicion is that the switches were damaged in the past due to there being fuel in the oil, as the car had a hard start problem in the past that was introducing a small amount of fuel to the oil on crank.

 

UPDATE: Replacing both the oil pressure switches (blue and brown) fixed the issue! Have not had the light come back on for a few weeks now.

 

 

 

I'll try to post the study guid oil supply explanation sections later as well,  as it is a decent read..

 

For the cost, if it was me still trying to get through this, I'd try relacing the full power pressure switch (blue) as well. Ruling that out. As there is interaction between the two pressure switches and  the N428 oil control valve in the event of "faulty" switches.

 

The N428 oil control valve (on front crankcase - need to remove vbelt and probably drain oil partially at least)   could be faulty as well perhaps - mentioned in previous post - if it was sticking in one mode or the other sometimes even briefly,  It would mean the pump cold be in the wrong pressure mode compared to what the ECU is expecting (asking) for pressure wise. 

 

The other thing that has caught people out with oil pressure issues on EA888 gen 3s,  (but usually results in a permanent and immediate oil pressure problem) is the anti drain valve in the oil filter housing. It is a sort of stick assembly that goes down into the bottom of the oil filter housing and there were at least two different versions.

 

One had a spring tensioner the other just a ball joint stick pressed into the top of the oil filter case. But both feature a oring or dual oring seal at the important end to seal the drain hole.   It gets pulled out when you change the oil filter (for the oil to escape). If that gets damaged, broken or the o ring gets leaky, it will leak pressure. If the stick gets broken it might not be retained to seal properly.   It is pretty easy to check this when car engine cool and you won't need to drain the oil. just take the oil filter housing cover off slowly and allow the oil to drain down.

 

Hope this might help, but keep us updated even if it is the garage who takes it forward!

 

Edit: oil supply pdf self study guide attached.

EA888 OIL Supply.pdf 1014.73 kB · 0 downloads

 

I've already replaced both blue and brown, but to no avail. Although the parts aren't OEM, but no reason why they shouldn't work.

I've purchased a new oil filter today so will fit tomorrow.

 

I did do some research on the N428 but I'm not sure if I have the ability to replace that myself, and the part is quite expensive (around £100) so not sure if I'd be comfortable doing it to be honest.

Edited 3 November, 20232 yr by vRSRutty

2 minutes ago, vRSRutty said:

I did do some research on the N428 but I'm not sure if I have the ability to replace that myself, and the part is quite expensive (around £100) so not sure if I'd be comfortable doing it to be honest.

I looked in the workshop manual for the golf r, didn't look too bad but oil will need draining or lowering level at least.

V belt removed.

Access from under likely required - so undertray removed.

 

If the oil filter drain valve is fitting and sealing ok when the filter cover is screwed back on........ I can only think of that valve or the oil pump..

 

£100 sounds a lot, but is not much time once the car is in the shop!! 

1 minute ago, TheClient said:

I looked in the workshop manual for the golf r, didn't look too bad but oil will need draining or lowering level at least.

V belt removed.

Access from under likely required - so undertray removed.

 

If the oil filter drain valve is fitting and sealing ok when the filter cover is screwed back on........ I can only think of that valve or the oil pump..

 

£100 sounds a lot, but is not much time once the car is in the shop!! 

The ONLY thing I haven't done, is replace both switches with OEM parts.

 

I may just order the same ones @Breezy_Pete listed earlier on in the thread. 

 

For the sake of £30, atleast I know both parts are genuine OEM, and if it doesn't fix it I can say I tried. 

Hi @Breezy_Pete @TheClient

 

Garage got back to me with the diagnosis this afternoon, it's a genuine oil pressure issue, the lady mentioned that my car operates at 0.4 bar (when idling, I'd imagine), which is below what it should be.

 

They've said it's basically irreparable and requires a new engine, and have quoted me £8800, not including labour.

 

Devastated isn't even the word, I just can't understand how it can just be faulty with no fix other than to replace the entire engine, but hey ho.

 

Thanks for all your help.  

Blimey. 

52 minutes ago, vRSRutty said:

Hi @Breezy_Pete @TheClient

 

Garage got back to me with the diagnosis this afternoon, it's a genuine oil pressure issue, the lady mentioned that my car operates at 0.4 bar (when idling, I'd imagine), which is below what it should be.

 

They've said it's basically irreparable and requires a new engine, and have quoted me £8800, not including labour.

 

Devastated isn't even the word, I just can't understand how it can just be faulty with no fix other than to replace the entire engine, but hey ho.

 

Thanks for all your help.  

I'd be looking for a 2nd opinion and a detailed report. Why can't they fit a new pump?

1 minute ago, ords said:

I'd be looking for a 2nd opinion and a detailed report. Why can't they fit a new pump?

Yeah, going to collect it tomorrow and will take it to another garage.

 

I did ask over the phone, but she said where it's not a "mechanical fault" it can't be fixed, and not much else.

 

They're very reputable in the South East for VW group cars, so I'd like to believe they've got it bang on, but with an explanation as broad as that, it does leave me wondering.

Well they just might be correct with the 0.4 bar at idle but at the very least that would point to a faulty low pressure warning switch, they sure ain't correct in it needing £8800 throwing at it to resolve the alleged low oil pressure.

 

Are you sure the correct filter is fitted and the anti-drain valve is not leaking?

1 minute ago, J.R. said:

Well they just might be correct with the 0.4 bar at idle but at the very least that would point to a faulty low pressure warning switch, they sure ain't correct in it needing £8800 throwing at it to resolve the alleged low oil pressure.

 

Are you sure the correct filter is fitted and the anti-drain valve is not leaking?

 

I've replaced the oil filter and the high/low switches myself (see above in thread) a week or so before taking it in but it didn't help, however I definitely noticed a change in behaviour of when the errors appear, it would show up 9/10 times when applying heavy throttle, now it's about 3/10 times - not sure what that could indicate though.

 

I've been under and throughly looked within the engine bay and can't spot any leaks, although it's very possible I've missed something.

 

Another garage (which I'll be taking it to once I collect mine tomorrow) suggested dropping the sump and checking the pickup pipe etc, also mentioned the oil pump itself.

 

Will have to ask tomorrow and see what they've actually done to fault find and so on.

When you changed the oil filter did you also change the oil?