It's common to re-seal the sheet metal assembly carrier to the door, as a fix for leaks. That alone wouldn't affect window operation.

Not sure what you mean by the cable. Photo?

You can just about see the end of the cable that hose into the white plastic bit in the middle of the door I think .

I can't make out much, but I'll trust that you can see enough to tell that the mechanism/regulator is bust.

Probably worth replacing that ahead of worrying about the motor.

 

Hi , sorry I couldn’t get a better picture of it hopefully I will go get one tomorrow and see what happens. I will keep you updated with my progress and let you know if I need a motor repair as well . Thank you so much for your help .

Good afternoon, so I changed the window regulator , omg what a job that was lol . I’ve plugged it all back in the passenger side works from the passenger side door but not from the drivers door . I still have no soft closing when I use the key driver side not working at all . Thank you 

25 minutes ago, Dennise said:

I changed the window regulator , omg what a job that was lol

Yeah, it's quite nasty on the facelift cars with rivetted carriers. 

Sounds like a replacement of, or repair to the driver's side module is needed.

 

Ok so I just tried the passengers side window again and it’s stopped working , is this to do with the drivers side window motor? If so is that something you can repair please. 

Yes, and yes.

Message me please.

 

On 29/03/2024 at 12:10, Breezy_Pete said:

It's most likely the driver's side motor module failed.

Message me about my repair service if you like.🙂

So after eventually sorting my Windows out replaced the door switch unit that got the drivers working then new motor and mechanism panel as that had broken on passenger side. Been ok for nearly a year! 😂

now drivers switch unit has stopped working on all windows as well as locking not working all windows except drivers open separately on there own switches. Key in door will only open rear windows and close neither front operates.
is this now the drivers module failed? Does that affect central locking as well?

All fuses and wires seem ok.

i did recently have the battery go flat as hadn’t driven for  a while and left dash cam plugged in 🙈.

 

its Fabia 2001.

 

I don't know much about the CAN-based pre-facelift units, but can have a look at circuits and have a think about this for you, most likely tomorrow.

I'd hazard a guess that this may be a wire problem, rather than a module one.

9 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

I don't know much about the CAN-based pre-facelift units, but can have a look at circuits and have a think about this for you, most likely tomorrow.

I'd hazard a guess that this may be a wire problem, rather than a module one.

Ok cheers! 
did seem odd that only just failed after battery went flat don’t know if that’s a coincidence or not!

Pulled off door rubber and  wires all look fine. Having central locking not working seemed odd as well. I did still have the original switch unit tried that in case they had failed nothing worked still. 

May be worth a deliberate battery disconnect/reconnect, with a minute between the two, if the battery is now fully charged. This will do a clean reboot of all modules that have permanent power connections, I think (which includes the window modules and the central convenience control unit that looks after the C/L). 

The lock signals don't go via the window motors on this generation of system, so I can't see any obvious reason why a window motor problem would have a knock-on effect on the central locking.

 

Does the backlighting work OK on your driver's door switch unit?  That relies on an earth which is also crucial for all the window switch functions. Might have to wait 'til dusk to see clearly.

I presume the car has remote central locking, not just key in door? If so, is that working or not? 

When you unlock via key in driver's door, do any doors other than driver's unlock? 

19 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

May be worth a deliberate battery disconnect/reconnect, with a minute between the two, if the battery is now fully charged. This will do a clean reboot of all modules that have permanent power connections, I think (which includes the window modules and the central convenience control unit that looks after the C/L). 

The lock signals don't go via the window motors on this generation of system, so I can't see any obvious reason why a window motor problem would have a knock-on effect on the central locking.

 

Does the backlighting work OK on your driver's door switch unit?  That relies on an earth which is also crucial for all the window switch functions. Might have to wait 'til dusk to see clearly.

I presume the car has remote central locking, not just key in door? If so, is that working or not? 

When you unlock via key in driver's door, do any doors other than driver's unlock? 

Ok battery disconnected for few minutes no change.

central locking works fine on key remote. And inserted in lock. Turning key in lock does only open the rear windows though not either front. Front passenger works on it’s on switch ok.

Don’t think the backlight on switches is working but it is sunny today so will double check that later.

 

 

FYI I also unclipped the brown clip  connector in the door loom rubber, that makes the central locking operate when plugging in and out. So clearly power going through that to door mechanism 

Does the courtesy light and lights left on warning work OK when triggered (or not) by opening the driver's door?

10 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Does the courtesy light and lights left on warning work OK when triggered (or not) by opening the driver's door?

Yes courtesy lights come on and off with door opening. Lights left on alarm sounds when door opened 

On 26/11/2024 at 12:05, Breezy_Pete said:

Does the courtesy light and lights left on warning work OK when triggered (or not) by opening the driver's door?

Any more thoughts on it still can’t figure it out bizarre really found the wiring diagrams and as you said how does the door locking button get affected as well as the electric windows! You mentioned earth connection before if that’s broken somehow going to the door switch unit will that stop both working?

could I run a piece of wire from earth to switch connections to prove that?

Edited 29 November, 20241 yr by PaulZZZ

Yes, make sure the brown wires at both switch pack and lock module are really earthing, but I think the lock one must be OK cos the 'door open' signal relies on it. Backlight in switchpack relies on the same earth as the up/down switches,  so do check backlight operation once the daylight goes a bit, later.

 

Edited 29 November, 20241 yr by Breezy_Pete

On 29/11/2024 at 13:50, Breezy_Pete said:

Yes, make sure the brown wires at both switch pack and lock module are really earthing, but I think the lock one must be OK cos the 'door open' signal relies on it. Backlight in switchpack relies on the same earth as the up/down switches,  so do check backlight operation once the daylight goes a bit, later.

 

Backlight not working on the switch unit passenger and rear all light up.

i guess I’ll have to strip the door down next I’m guessing its going to be a feed/earth maybe from the motor?

On 29/11/2024 at 13:50, Breezy_Pete said:

Yes, make sure the brown wires at both switch pack and lock module are really earthing, but I think the lock one must be OK cos the 'door open' signal relies on it. Backlight in switchpack relies on the same earth as the up/down switches,  so do check backlight operation once the daylight goes a bit, later.

 

I’ve opened up the old switch unit I replaced last year was only the window  switches sticking lock was ok. Tried putting it on live and putting an earth to the pins got nothing! 
there appears to be nothing going to the switch unit no feeds at all!
 

Let me just check the circuit in a sec. 

Did you say you have circuits?

 

For pre-facelift cars with all four windows electric, the crucial earth to the switchpack is a brown wire that connects pin 11 of the 16-way at the switchpack connector to pin 9 of the black 12-way at the window motor.

It's also shown as splicing into an earth wire in the door loom (marked 267 in circuit).

Without that none of the switches nor backlighting will work.

Edited 1 December, 20241 yr by Breezy_Pete

42 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

I’ve taken all the door connectors out and just checked them for continuity all ok. All wires from plugs seem fine. 

I’m just thinking that it can only really now be the driver door motor/control unit?

there isn’t really anything else is there?

is it worth trying to open up the window motor unit to see if anything can be done there?

 

Edited 1 December, 20241 yr by PaulZZZ

Guess not. Bit rare, the 4 window version unfortunately.