Hi,

I am driving a Skoda Octavia 2.0 TDI MK3. I have the following issues and need help or suggestions regarding what to do.

 

1. Air Con has stopped working and is blowing off hot air. The Compressor, Condenser, and the Evaporator needs to be changed.

2. Airbag Error has popped up.

3. Engine Checklight has come up with an error code P190E00.

4. Engine is overheating but the temp gauge is maintained at 90. The fan starts running after short drives.

 

Is it worth spending on rectifying these issues or should the car be sold off?

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Who told you these parts need to be changed, was it a trusted mechanic.

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Your car needs some maintenance, and who is going to buy it as it is.

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What are you going to be buying next because whatever it is you will need to maintain. 

 

Find a good trusted mechanic and stick with them.  Fix this car and keep or sell it and then look after the next one. IMO that is.

What indication are you getting that your engine is overheating if the temperature gauge is displaying normal? 

How old is the car? Could be a new battery is required and sending the electrics haywire.

Fan running after short drives is the classic symptom of a dpf in need of attention. Could just need a blast but may well need a clean or even replacement.

As @Rootedsuggests, you need to maintain the car and sounds like you may have just been putting fuel in and driving while waiting for the car to tell you it needs a service?

The a/c may just need  re-charging with gas.

 

How long have you had the car?

Fault code P190E 00 points towards an intercooler coolant pump fault (supply voltage) 

23 hours ago, Rooted said:

?

Who told you these parts need to be changed, was it a trusted mechanic.

?

Your car needs some maintenance, and who is going to buy it as it is.

?

What are you going to be buying next because whatever it is you will need to maintain. 

 

Find a good trusted mechanic and stick with them.  Fix this car and keep or sell it and then look after the next one. IMO that is.

The mechanic was trusted, who asked me to change these parts. 

 

The car is constantly giving me some kind of mechanical work. It has been driven 107,000 kms / 66486 miles.

 

I am planning to buy a Mercedes Benz E250 CDI as my next car.

23 hours ago, Warrior193 said:

What indication are you getting that your engine is overheating if the temperature gauge is displaying normal? 

The car is running hotter than usual, the heat from the engine bay is a lot more than before.

23 hours ago, MarkyG82 said:

How old is the car? Could be a new battery is required and sending the electrics haywire.

Fan running after short drives is the classic symptom of a dpf in need of attention. Could just need a blast but may well need a clean or even replacement.

As @Rootedsuggests, you need to maintain the car and sounds like you may have just been putting fuel in and driving while waiting for the car to tell you it needs a service?

The car is 8 Years Old, driven 107,000 kms / 66,486 miles.

The battery of the car was replaced 9 days ago.

I will have to check on the DPF matter.

The car has been serviced at regular intervals of 15,000 kms or 1 Year, or as soon as the service indicator pops up. 

 

Regarding the maintenance of the car, there was a slight oil leakage on the car, got the oil pan changed as requested by the mechanic and the matter was solved. Later I started facing issues of excessive coolant loss in the car, post which the expansion tank, and the radiator was changed, and that issue was resolved as well. Later, I started facing issues with startup and coolant loss, which turned out to be the charge air cooler of the car, causing the engine to hydrolock, the same issue was looked after and the charge air cooler was replaced, with a new starter motor installed. All of these issues happened within the last 6 months.

20 hours ago, ords said:

The a/c may just need  re-charging with gas.

 

How long have you had the car?

The AC was serviced recently, and recharged with gas. My mechanic checked the complete Air Con system, and asked me to change the parts.

19 hours ago, Warrior193 said:

Fault code P190E 00 points towards an intercooler coolant pump fault (supply voltage) 

Yes, the coolant pump was changed twice, and the error code did not go off even after clearing it. It would go off for 10 minutes and pop back up with the same error code. 

This is another issue I am facing with the car, I would be grateful if you can help me find the cause of this issue. I got the car checked with the Skoda Service Centre, and they demand a new gearbox, which is costing me the current value of this car.

You say the engine is overheating - yet the temperature gauge is indicating normal temperature. You feel that 'the heat from the engine bay is a lot more than before' - but you do not say coolant is being lost since you had the charge cooler replaced, so I'm assuming it's not now - are you sure that the extra engine heat you feel is not just the DPF trying to go through a regeneration ?

1 hour ago, Warrior193 said:

You say the engine is overheating - yet the temperature gauge is indicating normal temperature. You feel that 'the heat from the engine bay is a lot more than before' - but you do not say coolant is being lost since you had the charge cooler replaced, so I'm assuming it's not now - are you sure that the extra engine heat you feel is not just the DPF trying to go through a regeneration ?

Are the fans running when you're sensing the engine is hotter than normal?  That would probably indicate it's doing a regeneration.  Are you checking with engine on or off?

 

If fitted does the heating work?

 

 

On 22/12/2023 at 14:05, HarshJain said:

Air Con has stopped working and is blowing off hot air. The Compressor, Condenser, and the Evaporator needs to be changed.

 

4 hours ago, HarshJain said:

The mechanic was trusted, who asked me to change these parts.

 

The car is constantly giving me some kind of mechanical work.

 

4 hours ago, HarshJain said:

My mechanic checked the complete Air Con system, and asked me to change the parts.

 

You were unwise to trust any mechanic who cannot diagnose a fault and wants you to pay for him to replace multiple parts.

 

Its likely not your car constantly giving you work but the mechanic creating it.

 

I have no idea what alleged gearbox fault you think that you have after watching the video, please don't record another one as it is very dangerous but simply explain what you percieve the problem to be please.

 

Fans running and engine seeming to run hotter is indicative of a DPF regeneration.

Edited 23 December, 20232 yr by J.R.

6 hours ago, HarshJain said:

The car is 8 Years Old, driven 107,000 kms / 66,486 miles.

The battery of the car was replaced 9 days ago.

......

 which turned out to be the charge air cooler of the car, causing the engine to hydrolock, the same issue was looked after and the charge air cooler was replaced, with a new starter motor installed. All of these issues happened within the last 6 months.

Was the car coded to accept a new battery? And are you certain it was the correct battery?

Did you really have a hydrolocked engine? If it was then rebuilt maybe it was done badly and it's now causing you problems.

Also not sure what a new starter has to do with it unless that was burnt out from turning over after hydrolocking.

The planetary gears can explode if hydrolock occurs while cranking, someone asked me to spray easi-start into the intake of their diesel Vauxhall Insh1tnia while they cranked and I did exactly as asked not knowing what the result was going to be 😒

 

The VAG starters are pretty bulletproof though in my experience, I have had one smoking from abuse and it went on for another hundred thousand miles & was still fine when the car was scrapped at 325k miles.

 

Maybe the mechanic saw an opportunity.

Edited 23 December, 20232 yr by J.R.

On 23/12/2023 at 19:58, Warrior193 said:

You say the engine is overheating - yet the temperature gauge is indicating normal temperature. You feel that 'the heat from the engine bay is a lot more than before' - but you do not say coolant is being lost since you had the charge cooler replaced, so I'm assuming it's not now - are you sure that the extra engine heat you feel is not just the DPF trying to go through a regeneration ?

I am not sure whether the heat is from the DPF regeneration. 

On 23/12/2023 at 21:42, ords said:

Are the fans running when you're sensing the engine is hotter than normal?  That would probably indicate it's doing a regeneration.  Are you checking with engine on or off?

 

If fitted does the heating work?

Yes, the fans are running when I sense the engine is running hotter. I am checking with the engine off.

On 23/12/2023 at 23:28, J.R. said:

 

 

 

 

 

You were unwise to trust any mechanic who cannot diagnose a fault and wants you to pay for him to replace multiple parts.

 

Its likely not your car constantly giving you work but the mechanic creating it.

 

I have no idea what alleged gearbox fault you think that you have after watching the video, please don't record another one as it is very dangerous but simply explain what you percieve the problem to be please.

 

Fans running and engine seeming to run hotter is indicative of a DPF regeneration.

There is a possibility that the mechanic tried to create the Air Con problem, there was no issue with the system before I got it serviced from the guy. 

 

And the issue with the gearbox, my gearbox is not picking up speed after reaching 80 or 100 km/h mark, there is a sudden drop in the power, till the 80 or 100 km/h mark, the gearbox is working normally. In city, the gearbox is not giving me any issue, it is when I am on the highway and need to speed up. No matter how hard or how lightly I push the accelerator pedal.

On 24/12/2023 at 01:35, MarkyG82 said:

Was the car coded to accept a new battery? And are you certain it was the correct battery?

Did you really have a hydrolocked engine? If it was then rebuilt maybe it was done badly and it's now causing you problems.

Also not sure what a new starter has to do with it unless that was burnt out from turning over after hydrolocking.

The battery I installed was an aftermarket battery. Yes, I am certain that the battery is correct, since the last 2 years I am using the same battery.

 

Yes, I did have hydrolocked engine, due to the charge air cooler leaking drops of water into my engine, which was then replaced before the engine was ceased. No, it was not rebuilt, the engine remains untouched.

 

The armature of the starter burnt, due to the hydrolocking issues.

1 hour ago, HarshJain said:

The battery I installed was an aftermarket battery. Yes, I am certain that the battery is correct, since the last 2 years I am using the same battery.

 

Yes, I did have hydrolocked engine, due to the charge air cooler leaking drops of water into my engine, which was then replaced before the engine was ceased. No, it was not rebuilt, the engine remains untouched.

 

The armature of the starter burnt, due to the hydrolocking issues.

 

So was the battery coded? All Skoda's (as far as I'm aware) from the last 10 years need to be coded when a new battery is installed.

 

So the engine seized due to hydrolocking and you were able to clear it and get it running without any issue with the running parts or internals? Seems unlikely but not impossible.

 

Your comments on the dpf above definitely sound like it needs proper attention. And I would suggest not taking back to the same mechanic.

3 hours ago, HarshJain said:

There is a possibility that the mechanic tried to create the Air Con problem, there was no issue with the system before I got it serviced from the guy. 

 

And the issue with the gearbox, my gearbox is not picking up speed after reaching 80 or 100 km/h mark, there is a sudden drop in the power, till the 80 or 100 km/h mark, the gearbox is working normally. In city, the gearbox is not giving me any issue, it is when I am on the highway and need to speed up. No matter how hard or how lightly I push the accelerator pedal.

The 'sudden drop in power' you describe is highly unlikely to be a problem related to the gearbox - unless the clutch is starting to slip. Most probably engine limp mode / DPF issues. Do you have manual or DSG gearbox?

One thing we are missing from this thread is a full scan of the car.  It feels like the mechanic is just replacing bits here...without doing a big picture review.

With so many issues and so many parts replaced in the last 6 months, I would stop sinking money into this car, get what you can selling it "as seen", to a scrapdealer or as a trade-in for another.

 

I would also look for a different garage with the new car or take a service agreement/ extended warranty to cover any problems...

Hello Guys!

Firstly, I would like to thank all of you for helping me and keeping me motivated not to sell off the car. Invested quite a fair share of amount and time to bring this beauty back to a decent condition.

1. Replaced all AirCon Components (Condenser, Compressor, and Evaporator)

2. Replaced the Auxiliary Coolant Pump which solved the check engine light issue.

3. Flywheel was replaced (It was needed)

4. Timing Belt Kit replaced

5. Basic Service and Gearbox Service including DQ250 Oil and Filter change

6. Complete Suspension Overhaul

Currently I am stuck with Power loss issue, unable to figure out the reason for this. Also blown Intake Manifold/Charge Air Cooler (I have temporarily cut off the coolant lines and made a direct connection to the inlet and outlet to prevent the engine from hydro-locking)

I would also like to know if the Airbag and Central Locking connected, my car does not lock while driving, and there is a sound from the rear doors of the locks clicking. (I have checked all the connections and wiring, everything seems to be intact, and no signs of damage visible). We have run diagnostics on VCDS and yet there is no error for Central Locking function, but my Airbag light is on.