Inside Canton Amplifier

[Wacholek]

Hello everyone,

I decided to create a topic about canton amplifier 3G035466. There is similar topic on Octavia forum but there is a 3Q0035466A amp. 

 

Speaking of speaker ratings for the Canton system in the Superb......

 

 

Some photos attached. 

 

So, there is 3x TDA7803A nad 2x FDA802. 

TDA7803A is a quad channel amplifier capable of deliver – 4 x 27 W 4 Ω @ 14.4 V, 1 kHz, THD = 10% – 4 x 47 W 2 Ω @ 14.4 V, 1 kHz, THD = 10%

FDA802 is a dual channel class-D amplifier  capable of deliver– 2 x 120 W /4 Ω @ 35 V, 1 kHz THD = 1% (2 x150 W /4 Ω @ 35 V, 1 kHz THD =10%) – 2 x 140 W /8 Ω @ 50 V, 1 kHz THD = 1% (2 x180 W /8 Ω @ 50 V, 1 kHz THD =10%)

Link for datasheets: 

https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/tda7803a.pdf

https://www.st.com/resource/en/data_brief/fda802.pdf

 

FDA802 is capable of driving 4 Ω speakers but on 35V. I cannot find any full datasheet so no characteristics is available.  But judging by the main capacitors voltage (63V) probably it is powered from 50V so 4 Ω speakers might be an issue. 

I will test that soon. 

 

So info from a Skoda brochure should be quite precise. 610W is and RMS power. 

 

 

 

 

 

[numskull]

Best OEM sound I’ve had in any car, but what’s the point you’re making? 

[Wacholek]

On 28/12/2023 at 16:17, numskull said:

Best OEM sound I’ve had in any car, but what’s the point you’re making? 

For an OEM system is ok. Not the best I'v heard but ok. However there is much to improve. 

Front front door woofers sound flat. Weak punch. A a lot of power but poor quality speakers. I'll deal with them later. Maybe MP 165.3 PRO.

Sub-woofer is a joke. Tuned very high and complete lack of everything below 40Hz. Overlaps frequency with the front door woofers. SLOW and BOOMY. New will be MP 250 D4.3 PRO with custom made closed FIT-BOX and massive low-pass filters. 

With both speakers I have the same problem. Only 4Ω available. 

Will see how good those amp IC's are. 

 

[Sanju]

I have a Sportline - which does not come with the Canton system. It comes with an 8-speaker setup - 4 tweeters, 4 mid-range. Am exploring the following possibilities:

 

1. Cheaper option : Just swap out the OEM speakers with FOCAL VW IS 165s

2. More expensive but better experience ofcourse : Add a DSP [Match 5.4] + Subwoofer [Focal psb 200] + Replace OEM speakers with Focal VW IS 165s

 

Any thoughts or suggestions, specially for #1? How much of an audio experience enhancement do you think this will give over stock setup?

 

Rgds,

Sanju

[Wacholek]

1 hour ago, Sanju said:

I have a Sportline - which does not come with the Canton system. It comes with an 8-speaker setup - 4 tweeters, 4 mid-range. Am exploring the following possibilities:

 

1. Cheaper option : Just swap out the OEM speakers with FOCAL VW IS 165s

2. More expensive but better experience ofcourse : Add a DSP [Match 5.4] + Subwoofer [Focal psb 200] + Replace OEM speakers with Focal VW IS 165s

 

Any thoughts or suggestions, specially for #1? How much of an audio experience enhancement do you think this will give over stock setup?

 

Rgds,

Sanju

I must say that it is a tough choice. 

First off all the standard OEM main unit is weak one. Any upgrade on that would not be very good. However if you have access to Focal VW IS 165 for a very low price I would consider this option. 

Match 5.4 is just more advanced amplifier and in the same time not very powerful. 4x60W@4Ω + 90W@4Ω for a sub is just not good for the price.

 

Other options:

Do not waste time and mony for a rear set of speakers. They are good only for making noise, messing with the phase shifting in the car. For a music listening you should focus on the fronts and sub. Good front will give you the great kick and sub will add ultra low earthquake. 

For the front I use Hertz Audio speakers most of the time. There was a an old series EV165L with only 100W RMS but what a speaker. Frequency bandwidth 50Hz and that could be felt. Deep and very strong, punchy bass. Now only  MP 165.3 PRO are good enough. 

For a sub-woofer look for a fit-box. The best option for any setup. 

And beyond all a good amplifier is mandatory. I would use JBL MS-A1004 for front and sub. That is 4x100W@4Ω or 2x100W@4Ω+1x200W@4Ω. 

 

If you are not planing to use 100W/ch amplifier don't bother with any sub or front speaker change (Maybe Focal VW IS 165 for a very low price) wast of time and money. 

 

[numskull]

If you think the Cantom system is “OK”, you should heard the OEM systems in a well equipped car 25 years ago; trust me, there’s no comparison.
It’s a car, so it’s not designed for the production of any form of HiFi. Your head is in the wrong place to get any form of stereo or realistic surround sound. DSP programmes (another pointless gimmick) sound weird for the same reason.
It seems to me that the main preoccupation with customisation of sound systems in cars is to produce 100’s or even of ‘000’s of watts of noise and massive bass. To me it’s about the quality of the sound, not the volume. 

[Wacholek]

5 hours ago, numskull said:

If you think the Cantom system is “OK”, you should heard the OEM systems in a well equipped car 25 years ago; trust me, there’s no comparison.
It’s a car, so it’s not designed for the production of any form of HiFi. Your head is in the wrong place to get any form of stereo or realistic surround sound. DSP programmes (another pointless gimmick) sound weird for the same reason.
It seems to me that the main preoccupation with customisation of sound systems in cars is to produce 100’s or even of ‘000’s of watts of noise and massive bass. To me it’s about the quality of the sound, not the volume. 

Can't argue with that.  But there is always a room for improvement. I must say that DSP in Canton doing its job quite ok. When I turn on Dolby ProLocic but not set to surround but point only in the front, stereo opens up and make very nice scene. I know that is a DSP sound but must admin that it is the best surround sound I have tested. 

The reason I'm going to change the SUB is that this one is very badly tuned. It is in pair with the front which makes the bass louder but just a little richer. This is not the point of having a sub. It should extend the front frequency response below 50hz and not overlapped it with higher bass.

Overall my setup will not be louder but definitely more defined and rich.  

 

[numskull]

19 hours ago, Wacholek said:

This is not the point of having a sub. It should extend the front frequency response below 50hz and not overlapped it with higher bass.

Overall my setup will not be louder but definitely more defined and rich.

More “defined” and rich”? The bass you mean? Because that’s what beautifully rich and defined music needs… more bass, by the addition of an enormous sub, capable of being effective in a room 10x the size of the Superb cabin?  Ahhhh, right. I knew I was missing something…. 🙄
 

[Wacholek]

1 hour ago, numskull said:

More “defined” and rich”? The bass you mean? Because that’s what beautifully rich and defined music needs… more bass, by the addition of an enormous sub, capable of being effective in a room 10x the size of the Superb cabin?  Ahhhh, right. I knew I was missing something…. 🙄
 

Like I said last time bass will be added only below 50hz so everything above will be the fronts. Mind the fakt that I'm mounting a 600W Sub with low SPL and will be driven by 200W amp so in reality will be in pair with the fronts in terms of the volume. 

It is nice that Canton amp have one output per speaker. That get rid of a lot of distortions. 

If this amp will work with the sub I will also change the fronts to get rid of this lack of control, plastic speakers. 

Honestly, I prefer full range powerfully fronts over a sub-woofer, but since I already have an amp for one I'm going to use it as it should be used. 

[brettikivi]

On 31/12/2023 at 15:58, numskull said:

More “defined” and rich”? The bass you mean? Because that’s what beautifully rich and defined music needs… more bass, by the addition of an enormous sub, capable of being effective in a room 10x the size of the Superb cabin?  Ahhhh, right. I knew I was missing something…. 🙄
 

without the sub, no foundation. You also need to overcome the road noise, so the order of magnitude more power for bass becomes important.

Imaging gets better with the sub, too. Haven't heard Canton, don't imagine it can get as effortless as my system.

Staging in my car is pretty damned good, thanks, both in terms of width and depth. But then I'm running 8 channels of DSP and a bunch of EQ and Time Alignment to get it that way. Drops like a mofo, too, with a 10" in the boot that you *don't* need to turn up.

 

It is possible to get excellent imaging and staging, and at low levels, too, but it requires some wizardry. Helix S6.2C, CSS SDX10 on an SD1600.1/4 ohm, SD4.100 active through MiniDSP C-DSP 6x8 for fronts. That's less than €1250 plus fitting.

SDX is a 10" driver in a 28l sealed box behind the driver's seat. Drops beautifully. I tuned it in the summer at around 75dB levels, not 90+. Dayton measurement mic and AudioTool makes lots of things possible.

 

Good test tracks include Newton Faulkner's Teardrop (try the drop at 01:45), Hotel California from Hell Freezes Over, the Tiny house concert from Ed Sheeran, the Going Dumb remix, Cody Fry's Better.. and the subbass on the Weeknd's Sacrifice.

 

 

[IulianE]

I'm an audiophile and canton owner

I consider it more than good enough on Tidal via wired Android auto

Bluetooth sounds not so good...I allmost never use it 

Is balanced ,is dynamic,a bit on the lean side,the mids are good enough 

I listen from classic, jazz to edm,techno...deep house

The sub goes under 50Hz i can bet.

 

My home NAD-Wharfedale system is superior but is not that dynamic for electronic music and I miss that sometimes

 

[MartiniB]

11 hours ago, IulianE said:

I'm an audiophile and canton owner

Bluetooth sounds not so good...I allmost never use it 

which type of head unit?

on my previous MY16 Mk3 Columbus 8" Mib2H Canton BT had acceptable sounding,

but MY23 Mk3.FL Amundsen 8" Mib3 Canton BT gives huge amount of compression artefacts on the highs,

while FM sounds richer, especial in mid bass range.

(can't say right now, which exact codec is selected on Galaxy S22 Ultra, but other tried didn't work anyway)

so sceptical looking to migrate to AA, because Waze then will lose a lot of functionality

 

 

13 hours ago, brettikivi said:

need to overcome the road noise

has anyone come across any information,

what equipment must be installed, to activate this option?

 

 

changing of first parameter in this screen, didn't give any noticeable changes

 

[brettikivi]

got to listen to a Canton the other day on a test drive.. I'm underwhelmed. True, it was cold, true, no real music testing was done, but that was not what i was expecting.

 

@MartiniB no idea, i haven't tried active cancellation or convolution with a phase-opposed version of the "standard" road noise at specific speeds, which would probably work well. Still have to find a way to implement it, the DSP i have probably can't. Source interference is hard with Spotify....

 

and for the record, Android Auto doesn't use BT for the sound, it uses Wifi Direct in the more modern versions, and I suspect a different codec in the cabled ones. which explains why it sounds different to BT.

[spacelord]

There is no noise cancelling technology in the Superb. Simply not implemented. you also don't have a chance to use it to eliminate road noise as this kind of noise is not predictable.

 

@MartiniBIn my opinion the issue is not the BT codec but the Canton amplifier. It has some compression/noise filter

 

@WacholekHow are you planning to compensate the level of the 4 Ohm bass speakers which are then significantly louder than the 8 ohm OEM? Also, how do you achieve the sub going deeper than 30Hz if there is a high pass filter in the sub signal?

 

@brettikivi Canton sounds great when you adjust the focus to the driver and put the fader to the front. all other settings are a more or less faulty compromise.

 

@numskull you always put comments like this in the audio threads. You just don't have any clue how a good made car can sound.

[Wacholek]

7 hours ago, spacelord said:

There is no noise cancelling technology in the Superb. Simply not implemented. you also don't have a chance to use it to eliminate road noise as this kind of noise is not predictable.

 

@MartiniBIn my opinion the issue is not the BT codec but the Canton amplifier. It has some compression/noise filter

 

@WacholekHow are you planning to compensate the level of the 4 Ohm bass speakers which are then significantly louder than the 8 ohm OEM? Also, how do you achieve the sub going deeper than 30Hz if there is a high pass filter in the sub signal?

 

@brettikivi Canton sounds great when you adjust the focus to the driver and put the fader to the front. all other settings are a more or less faulty compromise.

 

@numskull you always put comments like this in the audio threads. You just don't have any clue how a good made car can sound.

This audio equipment has been used also in other Vag cars, like Audi, so I can imagine that in those cars there is a nice cancelling system active on the same audio hardware. Theoretically, it might be possible to implement the same system in Superb but that would be a really custom job. 

 

You are right about level compensation. In case MP 165.3 PRO SPL is 93dB so quite high for that power. We can assume that SPL of the factory OEM will be the same. The only question is how Canton amp will behave at 4Ω. Half the impedance will double the power so abut 3dB louder. I will test that in reality soon enough with the sub. 

 

[Paikesejanku]

Regarding audio quality there is definitely difference between sources. For me best is to use SD/USB (it also supports FLAC), bluetooth is the weakest. 

[spacelord]

@Paikesejanku sure it does. But the noise filter is causing some weird distortion, independent of the source

 

@Wacholek cannot imagine that the same amp is used in other VAG with noise cancelling. You need also several mics with corresponding input jacks and a lot of processing power.

your subbass and kickbass will outperform the mids and highs by far. you have to add some kind of signal level regulation or use high efficient mids and tweeters. It's going to be hard to match all them together.

Also not sure if the sub out would handle the heavy 10" 4 ohm subs. I used 2 5" subs  with 4 ohms each and it worked, but it's already far beyond specs.

 

After all I ended up replacing all the front speakers and using a DSP processing all the channels and aftermarket AMP to repower them,

[brettikivi]

@Wacholek

depends on the output transistors; you're asking for double the current for the same output power.

 

I might try to measure my car at the weekend, I'm going to have to take it apart to move it if I get a replacement, so might as well do it now. I'm within 3dB from 30 to 12k if I remember correctly, smoothed to 1/6th octave. There are some spikes I couldn't easily get rid of, but they don't really disturb during listening. Dayton Audio mic into my phone with AudioTool gets me darned close.

 

I'll spec it out here;

 - CSS SDX10 in 30l sealed. Weighted, double-baffled box behind the single seat. (fake) Speakon connector. That's 25mm of xmax and power handling of 400W... yeah, right, it's been happily eating 1kW for over 2 years.

 - SounDigital 1600.1 4 Ohm feeding the sub, so that's capable of 1.6kW, but i have the gain relatively low, so I suspect much less output. Power is fed down the driver's side (and I am assuming it's a 16mm2+ cable).

 - DSP is MiniDSP C 6x8. Fed at high level from the front outputs. There is no high pass filter on this setup that I can recognize; seven rings is a real test and it simply can't reproduce the *really* low stuff, most is fine. It's tucked behind the display with the USB cable fed into the glovebox.

 - fronts are powered by a Soundigital 4.100, 66W / channel, fully active for the fronts. Crossed over at 3kHz IIRC, need to check

 - Front system is a Helix S 62C.2, no crossovers in use except on the DSP

Fronts are limited to above 80Hz with the sub set up,  without it they are allowed full range. (It's uncomfortable to sit in the back with the sub up, so I have a setting with the rear speakers on and the sub off).

 

All TA is done in the DSP, as is the EQ. Everything is on 0 in the head unit; DSP off, full front. I have some whitenoise tracks if someone wants them, from 3kHz to 20Khz, and from 50 to 5000. Haven't got around to tuning the sub properly, but it's pretty good as is.

Levels are dialed in so they are within 1dB per driver from the driver's seat. TA is accurate as i can make it, I don't remember the software limitations.

 

The new car (should it happen) would have Canton. I figure the easiest upgrade is just to transplant this across and then take the mids into use in the doors with a spare pair of channels on the DSP. Will be more difficult to integrate yet another set of drivers, but it should give a decent voicing with the Helix S 3Ms, matching the rest of the system. But I will need another pair of amp channels... that shouldn't be a problem, there was enough space behind the glovebox, I think. The sub amp is more of an issue as that's currently hidden in the left cubby in the boot, and that space is taken by the Canton sub.

Agreed that SD sounds good, BT is OK. Android Auto has a wierd 2kHz or so hump for me, I had to turn it down quite a lot.

 

@spacelordwhat's your system?

[Wacholek]

23 minutes ago, spacelord said:

cannot imagine that the same amp is used in other VAG with noise cancelling. You need also several mics with corresponding input jacks and a lot of processing power.

Those part are interchangeable. Since there is an option in the coding so it is ready for this function. It is possible that there is another module just for the microphones. This one would make all the calculations and measurements. Head unit would be just to play it in the speakers. I do not have any schematic for Audi and I would not bother to look for one, but it might, just might, be possible. 

29 minutes ago, spacelord said:

Also not sure if the sub out would handle the heavy 10" 4 ohm subs. I used 2 5" subs  with 4 ohms each and it worked, but it's already far beyond specs.

That is why I use both channels for one sub. 200W will be plenny. If there would be 200W at all.

I did some tests with my Fit-Box stuffed with nice, acoustic foam. At 135W/coil there was out of linear excursion in just 15L enclosure. This not that powerful sub in a real life, and definitely not that heavy. It also have very nice 50-70hz flat response. Not louder than 30-50Hz. Nice, uniform, flat bass. No rumble. That is unfortunately in the  the nicely dumped room. I did not put it in the car yet. 

9 hours ago, spacelord said:

Also, how do you achieve the sub going deeper than 30Hz if there is a high pass filter in the sub signal?

How do you know that there is a high pass filter? 

 

I will eventually test the signals from all channels. Will see how those crossovers are set. 

I still believe that there is enough good in that factory Canton system. 

[spacelord]

Well, I know this because I measured the electric output of all channels. There is a 12db subsonic at 30hz and low pass at 50 or 60

 

The sub channels are not bridgeable, just to bei sure. It can be enough, but the levels do not match.

[spacelord]

@brettikivimy system was previously an esx DSP on top of Canton, channelwise processing, a musway eight100, Eton csp16 and Eton Onyx mid in OEM places, Sub a 2*5" Eton Sub in BR enclosure Tuned to 28 Hz

 

Now i have an esx DSP Amp, a esx vx2000 mono Amp and 3*Arc 8 in sealed enclosure on the same Front, but mids and tweeter in a pillar. I sum up the Canton with a JBL fix82 for DAB tuner and do direct streaming via USB for the Android 

[Wacholek]

  

 

40 minutes ago, brettikivi said:

@Wacholek

depends on the output transistors; you're asking for double the current for the same output power.

100W for 8Ω is 3.5A but 100W for 4Ω is 5A so there only 42% more current for the same power. Max power for 4Ω for FDA802 is 150W and 6,12A so without to much volume for the sub it should work just fine. 

 

6 minutes ago, spacelord said:

Well, I know this because I measured the electric output of all channels. There is a 12db subsonic at 30hz and low pass at 50 or 60

Thanks for the image. That explains a lot. Will see how the sub will perform in the car. 

 

16 minutes ago, spacelord said:

The sub channels are not bridgeable, just to bei sure. It can be enough, but the levels do not match.

That is why I have 2x4Ω coil in the sub. At first I was planning to buy 10TW3-D8 but that is an expensive sub and not good for such small fit-box. Would be a waste of mony. 10TW3-D8 Qtc- 1.065 , MP 250 D4.3 PRO Qtc- 0.876.

[spacelord]

@brettikivimy system was previously an esx DSP on top of Canton, channelwise processing, a musway eight100, Eton csp16 and Eton Onyx mid in OEM places, Sub a 2*5" Eton Sub in BR enclosure Tuned to 28 Hz

 

Now i have an esx DSP Amp, a esx vx2000 mono Amp and 3*Arc 8 in sealed enclosure on the same Front, but mids and tweeter in a pillar. I sum up the Canton with a JBL fix82 for DAB tuner and do direct streaming via USB for the Android 

[numskull]

16 hours ago, spacelord said:

you always put comments like this in the audio threads

Really? I ALWAYS do, do I? Please quote another 5 threads regarding car audio on which I’ve commented. Additionally, you will note I did say the Canton system is the best OEM sound I’ve ever had in any vehicle. 

 

16 hours ago, spacelord said:

You just don't have any clue how a good made car can sound.

Well looking at the quality of the installation in your Superb, it must be true. I bet it’s really loud too, with amazing bass which people in houses you drive past can not only hear, but actually feel?
 

I think I’ve been around a little longer than you, and I when I was in my mid 20’s, I used to goto many HiFi demonstrations and there was alway car HiFi demos too, built by companies like Pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood, Sharp, Blaupunkt, Technics and JVC, all of whom produced aftermarket HiFi. And yes, the sound was good…ish…. with the doors and boot open, so not that practical. So I do have a clue. 
But tell me; why do you need 100’s of watts of output in a space smaller and less acoustically sound than my bathroom? I ask as an excellent 60w HiFi amp, like my 1970 TEAC AS200S, or my 1979 JVC AX-3, running efficient speakers such as my Tannoy Lancasters, or KEF 103.3 easily fills a room four times the size of your Superb with quality HiFi sound running at 15w a channel. 

[brettikivi]

two words: headroom and dynamics. At the end of the day, the home room acoustics will affect just as much as the car, just with the car bringing more challenges to start.

 

Speaker design has changed a lot over the last decades. Thiele-Small only came into being in the 70s, and with valves being replaced with solid-state electronics, different design requirements came up. The move from Phono + RIAA to cassette (some stunning stuff on metal cassettes!) and then CD from the mid-80s has also had its effect. I've heard some Celestions from the late 60s and some Tannoys of the same era, and yes, they can be very, very good. But the requirement for sound levels, clarity, separation, staging, lack of distortion ("valve warmth" could easily be argued to be pleasantly sounding harmonic distortion) and sound output from a physically small speaker driver has led to larger xmax, requiring more powerful motors, larger coils and tending to lead to lower efficiency... so power requirements have gone up. As Class D has become more common in applications where power requirements are critical, the outputs available have gone up to match. Remember we're talking an order of magnitude more power for an increase of 10dB, and without super-efficient box designs - which don't really work in the car -  you end up needing power. We don't get to overrule physics. Seas A26 driver is a good example of this: with very low suspension movement, large size, it becomes super-hard to cross over well because it's an 8", so you need to XO low but then the tweeters,, so we end up with 3-ways and as these reach mass market, the quality of the XOs goes down and the demand for simplification goes up. "needs to sound as good or better and be cheaper".

 

Lots of car audio design has been driven by competition from the 80s in the US - IASCA and the likes - with Phoenix Gold and their "cheater" amps being an example that spring to mind. Lots of those were extremely under-rated to get into the specific class; after all, you can measure with 1%THD or 0.001% THD and get wildly differing outputs.

Much of the old school stuff - I'm talking the 70s+80s amps from the likes of Marantz, Pioneer, Philips and Luxman - are massively overbuilt to a level that allows headroom and bandwidth, with decent (but not stellar!) S/N ratios and dynamics, because they use massive transformers and caps, so the power output is there when needed. With the size and cost requirements of an in-car system from an OEM, that's simply not in the budget. They'll have good crosstalk numbers because frequently dual-mono designs and the luxury of space on the PCB.

 

I'm looking for bass that goes through the floor *at a very low level*. I'm listening at 65-75dB; the system could probably shake the building walls when parked outside but that's not the point. Having headroom is. it's effortless, drops beautifully and can rock out without running out of puff. I've done 70000km in the car in 2 years, that's 700 hours of seat time at 100km/h and a lot more in reality. Don't I deserve a decent soundsystem?

 

The efficiency problem is further compounded because the car itself is a leaky box. So you can't really use a bass reflex and expect it to behave reasonably. The argument here is simple: the port air is part of the same air that's being moved by the driver. So it's no longer really a chamber that's separated with the port. But that means also the car itself is a massive bass "amplifier" (similar to a corner) but with a specific frequency, due to the largest length available in the car and the length of the wave that will fit. I suspect in a Superb that's around 60Hz. Any audio designer worth their salt is going to use that. Same with using the windscreen / dashboard interface as a "horn", and playing with the reflections from the side windows to add an illusion of width. T-Lines don't really work as they're too massive. Horns, either. Inifite baffle is eminently possible if you can protect from the weather, but that brings its own challenges. Linkwitz transforming the output based on the resonant frequency apparently gives a good idea of the increase in bass. Very sure the Canton uses this, but there's no replacement for displacement, also in the size of the driver you're using. I run 8" in the other two cars and the difference is definitely there.

 

I've heard the B&O and Burmester systems (the latter in a C-Class in Chicago, of all places) and they're fine. But overpriced. Beats in the Ateca was OK but not good; one A6 had an OK system, the last one was poor. MBUX was not impressive, nor was the Tiguan. Last OEM system that *really* impressed was Dynaudio in an XC90 back in 2007.

 

4 hours ago, numskull said:

Well looking at the quality of the installation in your Superb, it must be true. I bet it’s really loud too, with amazing bass which people in houses you drive past can not only hear, but actually feel?

at 800W and 3 8" subs? nah. At 85dB/W/m, no, really, no. Could run WinISD and do the math, 30 sec with an online calc says 115dB max.