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Rattle and Shake on start up

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Doesn’t happen every time but occasionally I get a rattle from the engine on start up.

lasts about 10 seconds then gone. Also seems to Shane a little bit, this also goes after a minute or so of driving. Anything to be concerned about ?

Thanks

Ian

  • Author

Shake not Shane 😂

Ian, put up a video if you can.  If it's a rattle and shake that doesn't sound right especially if it shakes for a minute of driving.

 

What's the confirmed service history on the car, when were (if ever) the spark plugs and engine air filter last changed?

 

Do you have access to a VW appropriate scan tool that's not just generic OBD2 code reader?

 

See also below for rough idle - but in my experience if you get this and then just pull away you don't notice anything more.

 

  • Author

Thanks

Had a look at the replies. Not been to well recently haven't had a chance to look at Spark Plugs and Air Filter.. 

Soon as I can I'll check both..

Car has done just short of 20000 miles.

Never had any service History when I bought it. My Son in Law who is a Mechanic put his diagnostic tester in it. He mentioned something with the engine,which I promptly forgot. Will ask him to check it again.

Thanks

 

VW, and no doubt others, make it a real PITA job just t get the spark plugs out. you have to remove the air filter box which is a PITA job (neither difficult just awkward-ish) then you need perhaps a coil puller or diy equivalent and perhaps grease for one or all for putting back in, thin wall magnetic spark plug socket, oh, the joy of it all.

 

I probably put this before but a low mileage car has advantages and dis advantages and in some aspects needs more service and maintenance not less than a higher mileage car.  No service history means you are probably best assuming there's little or none so getting everything done for age rather than mileage.  I'm 100% certain I'd have mentioned the battery and its state of charge and health.

 

If you're not too well don't worry about it too much the engine and associated stuff is generally one of the less important  things on the car - brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres), electrics (lights, wipers, horn, blower, etc.), windows, mirrors number plates - see and be seen all more important than engine and drive stuff.

 

If you've got a son-in-law as a mechanic why are you doing or worrying about anything!  Toe cap, seat of trousers (jeans). 😄

    

Edited by nta16
typos

  • Author

Thanks

Son in law about as useful as An Ashtray on a Motorbike. He's also not well at the moment. So if I can get the Air filter off how hard a Job would that be. Looks like Clips holding the top on Fragile ones I'm guessing 😞 

47 minutes ago, killie77 said:

So if I can get the Air filter off how hard a Job would that be. Looks like Clips holding the top on Fragile ones I'm guessing 😞 

It's the bloody hidden screws on the underside, and the drip pipe or wotever it is, the large size and odd shape of the box needs space, the German spring clips (PITA) on the hoses, nothing difficult just more of a PITA than it needs to be (but I'm biased I loathe working on cars we owns and have never been a VW fan).  The bloody stupid 5 wheel bolts instead of 4 studs buggering my back up has made me loathe the car more.

 

It's all great fun, as working on cars always is, you'll probably find it easier than I make out it is.

 

You do need to know what the something about the engine is, your son-in-law only needs to read it to you or send you the scan tool report, might be something or nothing but best known.

 

Ian, I don't know if this applies to a 2016 1.2 TSI or obviously if it's the same rattle you have. - 

 

MattRuus - "My car drives very well and pulls like a train but at tick over it sounds like there is a tinny rattle.  I took it back on warranty and a master technician came out, reached around the back of the engine and touched something which stopped the rattle.  He told me that it was a common sound on them and didn't make any difference .  Apparently, some turbos get a rattle from the turbo waste gate actuating arm.  He told me it was fine but that if it annoyed me to bring it back and they will fit a new turbo."https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/523513-rattle-on-69-reg-fabia-10-tsfi

 

 

Ian, the following video appeared on the YouTube Home page, filter change, thought it'd give you the idea.  I'm not sure if the chap fully seated the new filter in the box but I might be wrong about that, difficult to see, and he didn't bother wiping/cleaning inside the box or hoses.

 

He does have the benefit of cable pliers suited to the annoying self-spring hose clips (a tool that is awkward to store unless you keep the original packaging) even then you see he has to fart about, bear in mind someone in Germany has been paid to make things more awkward than necessary and they'd done a good job at it.  You can use adjustable water-pump type pliers or proper spring band type pliers too as you can get at the clips (unlike elsewhere on the car where you might be able to use the cable type if you're lucky.

 

  

  • Author

Thanks

Going to attempt to take the AirBox off today. If you don’t hear from me for a while..

it’s cause I’ve fallen in to the engine bay and can’t get out 😂

Pushing my luck here is their a Video on how to remove the Spark plugs 😬

 

 

I can lend you four swear words you can repeatedly use, won't help with the work other than make you feel better whilst doing it.

 

 

1 hour ago, killie77 said:

Pushing my luck here is their a Video on how to remove the Spark plugs 😬

I've not seen one but I've not looked I'm sure there will be some.  On other threads here Ootofhere put up some photos of home made diy coil pullers, bent (welding wire, cable-ties and other).  AFAIK the coilplugs are tight to get out and back in, you want long (and magnetic if possible) correct size plug spanner and possibly some secret VW grease to help with future removal of at least one coilplug, one one the end I guess , you'll know if you struggle with it to remove it.

 

I didn't do the plugs as by the time I'd added up buying the tools and the plugs it wasn't worth it for for a one-off job, my neighbour will all the tools had moved and my wife said she'd not have the car in another 4 years (she's ****ed-off with it too, obviously it was her choice of car I have no say in such matters but she's learnt her lesson).

 

Years ago a mate bought year-old BMWs and Mercs, also bought a VW Bora, I went in it once, never has a car been so aptly named, he never kept the cars long enough to have much trouble with them, except years back the horrible G-Class thing, slid in snow and bumped square on to a lamppost at very slow speed on the way to me, he was a good car driver but obviously forgot the weight of the vehicle and it being on ordinary road tyres he was so worried about any damage to the front (plastic IIRC), next visit we went to the greasyspoon, first time I'd been in it, sitting front passenger I kept telling him there way a noise that side that wasn't right, he told me not to keep moaning about it, shortly after than the nearside front damper had to be replaced (under warranty).  German engineering quality. 😁

 

  • Author

Didn't swear just mumbled under my Breath.

Found it just as difficult replacing as removing. Those clips would chop 🪓 your finger off given the chance. I'm assuming the Spark Plugs live under the Air Filter housing. Are they accessible ?

Thanks

Ian

PXL_20240515_154121819.jpg

PXL_20240515_154125026.jpg

  • Author

PXL_20240515_154130631.jpg

2 hours ago, killie77 said:

I'm assuming the Spark Plugs live under the Air Filter housing. Are they accessible ?

Thanks

Coilpack.jpg.b97be5c376b41d47ad196b3e2a636f73.jpg

 

 

 

After removing the air filter housing there are 4 black square blocks with one 10 mm bolt and one electrical connector to the side.

Remove connector, then remove bolt from metal sleeve in one corner of the block, see above.

Pull coil pack straight up. I didn't need any special tools.

Spark plug is a long way down a small hole.

 

See this thread with photos on another forum where they had issues:-

https://www.upownersclub.co.uk/threads/how-to-remove-ignition-coil-units-with-pics.9299/

 

Thanks. AG Falco

 

  • Author

Thanks again

Might try and have a look this week. Still recovering from the AirFilter removal 😮‍💨

Put some premium fuel in it a tankful once a moth works wonders

  • Author

Thanks

Just need to find an easy bank to rob to pay for a full tank 😂

11 minutes ago, gumdrop said:

Put some premium fuel in it a tankful once a moth works wonders

Don't use moths. 😮

 

Been running mine on Tesco Momentum for the last six months, good.

Will be changing the spark plugs again this month as it is due it's 8th service.

 

Thanks. AG Falco

  • Author

If I have a look on eBay. Any particular make to go for ?

3 hours ago, killie77 said:

Those clips would chop 🪓 your finger off given the chance.

The self sprung metal ones I used waterpump pliers on, it was the plastic tangs to part the air box that got me, because of the awkward shape of the box and because I'd given the top cover a wipe over previously on the outside, it slipped and I managed to get a couple of small scratches on the plastic, good job it's black.

 

I bought a pistol grip long reach hose clamp pliers, same as in that vid, for another job on the car (but it wouldn't fit in the space but that's another PITA story) and the pliers did make removing the self-sprung clips easy to remove and replace on the air filter, still the job took me more than 7 mins despite those pliers and swearing.

 

I too think the high octane fuels which also have a higher cleaning additive package are a good idea now and again, I think a tankful before, then another tankful during and after a service and/or MoT, so two in total is a good idea along with occasional use.  Even my wife might put some in now and then and she watch the price at the pumps carefully.

 

If you do the plugs make sure to get genuine NGK, apparently there are counterfeit ones about.

 

I've never replaced the cabin pollen filter on the Fabia but I imagine it's like in other cars, an easy job make just a bit awkward somehow, I've done them on neighbours' cars and they sometimes go very easily and quickly and the next time on the same car, Sod's Law, something just doesn't got back easily first, and second time for.

 

Incandescent DLR bulbs, my hands and wrists just don't suit replacing those and the silly plastic cover seem welded on despite being cleaned and sprayed the previous time (get three times life bulbs).

  

22 hours ago, killie77 said:

If I have a look on eBay. Any particular make to go for ?

NGK 93231   PZKER7B8EGS spark plugs are what fit my 2016 TSI Fabia III.

 

Thanks. AG Falco

  • Author

Just what I'm looking for. 👍

Is it wise to get these from the Bay or are their likely to be Counterfeits around.

Thanks

Ian

  • Author

Wow. Just checked the Price for 4 Gulp 😰

16 minutes ago, killie77 said:

Is it wise to get these from the Bay or are their likely to be Counterfeits around.

Yes, counterfeits are around.

 

You could try a motor factors like:-

https://www.gsfcarparts.com/za049083?auto_apply_coupon=ROAD10&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3ZayBhDRARIsAPWzx8pDz2sF_f2iAz3BS-uxFZakxsPBN-Z0CXOXcRp6tag822YHGMOc_2saAkKoEALw_wcB&ibt=1

 

They do last 4 years / 40K miles though.

 

Thanks. AG Falco

You can get them for a bit less at other reputable places.

 

I found I'd copied & pasted this from rum4mo ready for when I was going to do it until I added up the costs (had it done as part of a Dealership service instead £99 IRC). -

 

"NGK spark plug for the 1,2TSI 16V engine:- at the age of your car the factory fit would have been VW AG part number 04E 905 601 with no NGK reference number on them, just VW AG  NGK on the insulator. the replacements I bought from a UK based sparkplug supplier as NGK were in fact NGK plugs packed in VW Group boxes with VW Group part number 04E 905 601 B   on the box and on the plug body, the box also had the corresponding NGK part number/model printed below the VW Group part number and that is NGK PZKER7B8EGS.   22NM torque 16mm spark plug socket.  Laser Tools sell a conveniently sized one, 245mm long 3/8" sqr drive with a magnet in it to hold the plug secure Laser Tools 3682.

 

Edit:- one thing about that Laser Tools spark plug long socket is, many places list it as being 14mm, but the Laser Tools item with the part number 3682 is 16mm, I can't explain why still after many years, some places including Halfords which seem to be the cheapest, are describing it as being a 14mm socket! Get them to open the packaging up and check it with their dial callipers before paying for it!"

 

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