I changed my 12v 59A efb+ battery to 72A agm and coded it as fleece.

But my fuel consumption now to high in idle 2.2 lt/h when moving starts from 40l. 

City use is high.

Why??

 

 

 

Hello, welcome to the forum.

I assume that you also changed the adaptation setting for the new battery capacity? 

That looks like pretty slow average speed, does your vehicle have automatic idle stop? What were your consumption figures before the change? Has anything else been changed? 

I have had the same issue regarding it showing it 40l/100 from the start when i accelerate from standing for instant fuel. . So In the 1st 2 gears with light acceleration it reads 40L . Mine is the 2.0 tsi.  I wasn't sure if it was normal  or not. I haven't had any battery change. My current fuel consumption for mixed sits at 11.3 since refuelling. 10.9 long term. I'm trying to get in contact with Skoda dealer to see if this is normal

 

4 hours ago, LuxoviaRS said:

I have had the same issue regarding it showing it 40l/100 from the start when i accelerate from standing for instant fuel. . So In the 1st 2 gears with light acceleration it reads 40L . Mine is the 2.0 tsi.  I wasn't sure if it was normal  or not. I haven't had any battery change. My current fuel consumption for mixed sits at 11.3 since refuelling. 10.9 long term. I'm trying to get in contact with Skoda dealer to see if this is normal

 

Instantaneous fuel use figures under acceleration are practically of no use - as are the figures achieved during overrun / downhill.

Avoid using spot readings and set the fuel computer to average setting - although it is common for the readings of these computers to be a little optimistic.

   The only accurate method to check consumption is to calculate tank to tank fills.   

2 hours ago, Warrior193 said:

Instantaneous fuel use figures under acceleration are practically of no use

Many years ago some colleagues and I had a challenge when on work trips - who could get the lowest instantaneous mpg figure.

 

I won with a figure of 1.9mpg (158L/100km) on a 2.0L vauxhall Astra GTE.

3 hours ago, Warrior193 said:

Avoid using spot readings and set the fuel computer to average setting

Ok what's the best way of doing this. Can I do this on the car infotainment or do I calculate manually myself 

 

3 hours ago, Warrior193 said:

The only accurate method to check consumption is to calculate tank to tank fills.

Ok I will do that.  I will compare with the trip computer to see how accurate it is especially the since refuelling. 

 

3 hours ago, Warrior193 said:

Instantaneous fuel use figures under acceleration are practically of no use - as are the figures achieved during overrun / downhill.

Ok so the 40l/100km that I see in the instantaneous are not as reliable hmmm thanks. I will research it more.  

 

 

21 minutes ago, LuxoviaRS said:

Ok so the 40l/100km that I see in the instantaneous are not as reliable hmmm thanks. I will research it more.  

It may be accurate enough but it means very little, the driver, sneezes, burps, farts, fidgets and the figure could instantly vastly increase or decrease.  If you want to see a steadier figure then you need to set the nanny cruise or automatic cruise for the car's computer programs to take over the accelerator pedal from you.

 

If you're just after higher mpg figures there are loads of things you can do from the mundane to the ridiculous.  For acceleration from standing start through gears for best mpg accelerate briskly (not to soft not too hard) through the gears, don't have the revs too high or too low (that could mean ignoring when the computer suggests to change, it's pretty thick and doesn't know much you should know more.  Don't be in a gear that is too high for the existing circumstances or very near future circumstances (read the road ahead).

 

For better driving and better mpg there's something that most men won't consider and it's a car tuning aid that can easily be transferred from one car to another and back again -  it's further driver training, a good way to accelerate driver learning and to some extent experience.  A bit like reading the car's Owner's Manual (and all other instructions) it is not against any law other than in the minds of macho fools. 😁

 

5 hours ago, nta16 said:

It may be accurate enough but it means very little, the driver, sneezes, burps, farts, fidgets and the figure could instantly vastly increase or decrease.  If you want to see a steadier figure then you need to set the nanny cruise or automatic cruise for the car's computer programs to take over the accelerator pedal from you.

Oh really that's interesting I never knew that the driver could affect it like that lol, who would have thought.   Yes I do at times set the adaptive cruise control at times in the city.  I've noticed it takes time to accelerate from the lights when they change and the car in front moves away.  I'll try and see if it makes a difference next time. 

 

5 hours ago, nta16 said:

If you're just after higher mpg figures there are loads of things you can do from the mundane to the ridiculous.  For acceleration from standing start through gears for best mpg accelerate briskly (not to soft not too hard) through the gears, don't have the revs too high or too low (that could mean ignoring when the computer suggests to change, it's pretty thick and doesn't know much you should know more.  Don't be in a gear that is too high for the existing circumstances or very near future circumstances (read the road ahead).

Yes I've read about going through the gears quicker, and not accelerating to hard or soft.  That will mean using the pedals on the steering wheel I guess.   I tend to just let the car change the gears itself. Especially in the city with so many other cars on the road with constant start stopping slowing and accelerating i think I just prefer the car changing the gears itself, i just am not confident in my gear changes in these circumstances to be in the correct gear. Yes  If I have the road ahead unimpeded from other cars etc  I do accelerate briskly and properly going through to the top gear for the speed of the road. 

 

5 hours ago, nta16 said:

For better driving and better mpg there's something that most men won't consider and it's a car tuning aid that can easily be transferred from one car to another and back again -  it's further driver training, a good way to accelerate driver learning and to some extent experience.  A bit like reading the car's Owner's Manual (and all other instructions) it is not against any law other than in the minds of macho fools. 😁

Firstly I do refer to the owners manual, I don't assume that i know everything otherwise I wouldn't be here asking for advice. I'm not a car specialist and though I enjoy driving and love my Skoda and do my best I know I can learn a lot more.  I'm certainly no macho fool. Also a tuning aid. What is that. Is that something like a device, pardon my ignorance. I'll have to look into this. I know from owning and driving many vehicles over the 25 years that cars need to be "tuned" or serviced regularly. I myself not being savy with this take my vehicles to the mechanic to do this. Though I have changed the oil and oil filter in a few of my cars  before as well as spark plugs, I am a bit hesitant to touch anything myself with my brand new Skoda seeing that it is still under warranty. I'm still to have my first service.  Correct me if I'm wrong but i was under the impression that new cars don't necessarily require or need to be "tuned" as older older vehicles once needed. Again pardon my ignorance on the matter.  Anyway thanks for your above responses,  appreciate it.

@LuxoviaRS I'm not sure if you're taking the **** (owned vehicles for 25 years) but assuming you're not, I think we posted before because I wondered why you'd have a VRS, my memory isn't the best.

 

if you switch off the automatic cruise control and drive the car yourself you will learn how to think ahead more, with more practice will come more confidence, it's OK not to be overconfident that way you avoid mistakes and accidents.  You can still leave the gears to change themselves if you want just learn pedal(s) control and looking ahead to see what is happening and what you want and need to do about it.  Movements need to be steady, no hard acceleration or braking, no point racing ahead a few yard to be right on the rear bumper of the car in front.

 

Tuning aid was a bad term, tuning generally is to do something to improve the performance of the car, more mpg and/or, first part of any tuning is to have the whole car running right with full and proper servicing, maintenance and repairs of the whole car (not just the engine), often this is sufficient tuning but some may want more.  Next step, and actually best, is further driver training to learn how to drive better on the road, this will include smoother steadier driving that will help with the driver's and car's performance (thus in my mind an aid to tuning the car).  It would also boost confidence.  There would be overall courses and those for city and country roads driving, I'd be surprised if Aus doesn't have them, only as one example here's one UK one, "the UK’s largest independent road safety charity, formed in 1956". - https://www.iamroadsmart.com/

 

On 12/06/2024 at 00:14, emrsln said:

I changed my 12v 59A efb+ battery to 72A agm and coded it as fleece.

But my fuel consumption now to high in idle 2.2 lt/h when moving starts from 40l. 

City use is high.

Why??

 

While it is important to correctly code the battery type and size for correct charging and longer battery life there is no reason why it would noticeably affect fuel consumption.

 

The only time I have seen idle consumption at or near 2.2l/hr in my 1.4tsi was related to several factors: Outside temperature of 47 deg Centigrade, 5 occupants, city driving, air conditioner going full blast to cool us and radiator fan going full blast to cool engine and air conditioner. These loads really affected general consumption adversely as well. Controlling high humidity with the aircon also worsens consumption.

I see that recent Istanbul temperatures are at a relatively comfortable low 30's so it may not be the reason for your problems.

 

When the engine is warmed up and the aircon turned off what is the idle consumption showing and what are the revs per minute? My car would show 0.5L/100 and 700 rpm.

Edited 13 June, 20241 yr by Gerrycan

@LuxoviaRS, you have not bought a very economical car in the first place. It has useful performance, and it can be relatively economical in the right circumstances, but obviously not if you use the performance, and not particularly good in heavy traffic, but then again what is? Other than a hybrid or EV  

You have not said in what part of Australia you live. If the east coast, then you may have experienced a lot of rain and high humidity and, as I mentioned to the OP, running the aircon to control humidity will have a noticeable adverse effect on consumption (it runs the heating and cooling at the same time). None of the official consumption figures include running any other equipment, which I think is wrong.

I have never used adaptive cruise control in a city environment. I'm sure it is very convenient, but I cannot think that it would actually be very economical in stop/start traffic, probably using a lot of low gears, a lot of relatively late braking and killing consumption.

I think your best bet to test the car is run it on an open flat road in top gear at around 100kph and if the instantaneous consumption is somewhere around 6l/100 then your car is probably fine and your expectations for city driving a bit optimistic.

23 hours ago, nta16 said:

  If you want to see a steadier figure then you need to set the nanny cruise or automatic cruise for the car's computer programs to take over the accelerator pedal from you.

Hi thanks for your responses. I apologise if I sound defensive. But

i feel that now you're confusing me In part. In the previous post you stated the above. I guess I'm assuming you're referring to the cruise control right (I can't think of anything else that takes over the accelerator). Remember I'm talking about city here including suburbs.  So I responded with the following.  

 

17 hours ago, LuxoviaRS said:

Yes I do at times set the adaptive cruise control at times in the city.

 

Now you are telling me that

 

6 hours ago, nta16 said:

if you switch off the automatic cruise control and drive the car yourself you will learn how to think ahead more, with more practice will come more confidence, it's OK not to be overconfident that way you avoid mistakes and accident

Ahh which one is it. Actually come to think of it the best mileage is when the car is on cruise with unimpeded traffic, i even think i don't see the 40l but I'll check it to make sure, and get back. Now in terms of my lack of confidence it has nothing to do with driving an automatic car including the skoda i  have ample confidence. The lack of confidence is in selecting the correct gear myself, as quoted here below for the traffic  conditions. I'm sure I can learn if I practice in time

 

18 hours ago, LuxoviaRS said:

i think I just prefer the car changing the gears itself, i just am not confident in my gear changes in these circumstances to be in the correct gear

 

Which was as a response to your recommendation 

On 13/06/2024 at 02:54, nta16 said:

don't have the revs too high or too low (that could mean ignoring when the computer suggests to change, it's pretty thick and doesn't know much you should know more.  Don't be in a gear that is too high for the existing circumstances or very near future circumstances

I was under the impression the dsg did a pretty good job of selecting the correct gear, at least bettet than a human.  I guess maybe it's better than me for now, till I learn and become more confident. I sort of know and have the feeling I just need to practice. Personally I feel that i read the road quiet well under the circumstances.  I don't tailgate or try not to,  neither am I a lead foot those days are long gone. Nor do I drive so so slowly (Unless due to traffic) I'm pretty good with my acceIeration and consistent.

 

14 hours ago, nta16 said:

Next step, and actually best, is further driver training to learn how to drive better on the road, this will include smoother steadier driving that will help with the driver's and car's performance (thus in my mind an aid to tuning the car).  It would also boost confidence

 

Driver training i guess that's an option and it could improve my driving. At the moment though it's a luxury i just don't have the time for.  Maybe in the future. I gather you have had driver training before yourself.

 

9 hours ago, nta16 said:

Tuning aid was a bad term, tuning generally is to do something to improve the performance of the car, more mpg and/or, first part of any tuning is to have the whole car running right with full and proper servicing, maintenance and repairs of the whole car (not just the engine), often this is sufficient tuning but some may want more.

 

Yes I understand now. I agree.   Maintenance is of the whole vehicle is crucial for keeping the car at car its peak so it can perform the best and provide the best fuel economy.  

 

In the end going back to the original topic of 40l appearing on the instant fuel figures in first and second gears. It really isn't a concern and i shouldn't really worry about seeing those figures as It's really not as reliable and I shouldn't rely on it too much.  

 

Thanks again

 

 

 

 

 

10 hours ago, Gerrycan said:

@LuxoviaRS, you have not bought a very economical car in the first place. It has useful performance, and it can be relatively economical in the right circumstances, but obviously not if you use the performance, and not particularly good in heavy traffic, but then again what is? Other than a hybrid or EV  

Yes I agree that's true,  I have discovered this and overall l have accepted this about this car,  its just how turbo 4 cylinder petrols are.  

 

10 hours ago, Gerrycan said:

You have not said in what part of Australia you live. If the east coast,

Sydney 

 

10 hours ago, Gerrycan said:

then you may have experienced a lot of rain and high humidity and, as I mentioned to the OP, running the aircon to control humidity will have a noticeable adverse effect on consumption (it runs the heating and cooling at the same time). None of the official consumption figures include running any other equipment, which I think is wrong.

Yes you are correct, overall it's widely accepted that running the air-conditioning affects fuel economy and performance as well.  Sydney though no doubt is humid,  it isn't as humid as Brisbane  more humid than Melbourne I've lived in both so know the feeling of living in both.  Even so at the time I was seeing the 40l that I initially commented from I didn't have any air-conditioning or heating turned on. 

 

10 hours ago, Gerrycan said:

I have never used adaptive cruise control in a city environment. I'm sure it is very convenient, but I cannot think that it would actually be very economical in stop/start traffic, probably using a lot of low gears, a lot of relatively late braking and killing consumption.

Well I understand what you're saying and yes it does have the delayed acceleration mainly because it needs to keep the allocated distance from the car in front.  Late breaking that occurs as well true not always.  Like I said to @nta16 I personally believe it gives better fuel economy and i don't recall seeing the 40l instant which i really shouldn't rely on too much.  I'll have to check when I next am able to. 

 

10 hours ago, Gerrycan said:

I think your best bet to test the car is run it on an open flat road in top gear at around 100kph and if the instantaneous consumption is somewhere around 6l/100 then your car is probably fine and your expectations for city driving a bit optimistic

I sort of have done that already. Travelling to Melbourne and back in January and also last month to Bright and back at 110km yes I am extremely happy with thy fuel consumption on the open road it shows 6l and even the last trip was f going lower to 5.7l. I had a range in the tank of about 800km, I have no problems with the vehicle on the highway it's an amazing car to drive it really makes the hours pass quickly. 

 

 

7 hours ago, LuxoviaRS said:

Hi thanks for your responses. I apologise if I sound defensive. But

i feel that now you're confusing me In part. In the previous post you stated the above. I guess I'm assuming you're referring to the cruise control right (I can't think of anything else that takes over the accelerator). Remember I'm talking about city here including suburbs.  So I responded with the following.  

Thank you for replying, don't worry about being defensive, I didn't think you were.  Sorry about confusing you, lets put it this way, if you are only interested in fuel economy then on the highway using cruise control will be steadier on the throttle so would probably be better, in city or town traffic if it can be used then automatic cruise control would probably be smoother on accelerator and brake and possibly/probably be better fuel economy.  If you want to learn to drive more, get more driving confidence and learn to drive economically then driving the car yourself using the gears if required is the way to go.

 

You may thing you are consistent with your foot but unless you are very good but you might be making small movements on the accelerator, you can test this by having the digital speedo set and instant fuel display and doing comparison tests on a same stretch of uninterrupted road conditions with ACC or CC and note the differences in the figures.    

 

I'll be honest and say I thought you had a manual gearbox (assumption, not thinking, bad memory) and I can understand for ease leaving everything to the DSG and driver aids including automatic cruise control and cruise control but that is the car taking over even more of the driving than it already does and I can't see how that will teach you more about driving the car and driving generally.

 

DSG is about better or perhaps quicker changes as that was it's original feature possibly before you were driving, or that's my memory from the Audi drivers of the time, others than me will know better the advantages and history.  Gear selection is a different matter, you as a human can read the road ahead better and you know what you want to do the car's computers are working on very limited input in comparison and only deal with things in the immediate area and not always correctly, just like humans it makes mistakes and has brain-farts.

 

Also not to give you the wrong idea, I'm not a very good driver and have never claimed to be, plenty of evidence of that on this site alone, and the only real further driving training I've had is a high performance car day course driving my car with instructor on the road (closed track part got cancelled which I was quite happy about) and I had a mate  that took the IAM course and became an instructor, I also have another mate that was a driving instructor for his delivery company,  When I started driving I was using old-bangers from the 1960s which you had to learn to drive and not just pass the driving test and until recently for 30+ years I was driving various 1960s and 70s old cars as daily drivers, for commuting (500 and 300 miles a week for a good number of months), for work, for tours and holidays in the UK and parts of Europe.  I also owned and drove some very basic powerful cars for leisure and pleasure, cars you had to drive without any electronic aids.  But I'm not a very good driver just have those experiences.

 

On 12/06/2024 at 17:17, LuxoviaRS said:

Ok what's the best way of doing this. Can I do this on the car infotainment or do I calculate manually myself 

 

Ok I will do that.  I will compare with the trip computer to see how accurate it is especially the since refuelling. 

 

Ok so the 40l/100km that I see in the instantaneous are not as reliable hmmm thanks. I will research it more.  

 

 

There are separate settings in the maxi-dot display - one for 'consumption' and one for 'average consumption'

Full moon is close....

Just remembered something, if it wasn't you just ignore it - surely you don't have to use flaps of plastic on the steering wheel to change gear can you not also use the gear stick

 

Though I admit 20+ years ago the up/down, +/- markings wit the lever for gears always confused me and I wanted to do the opposite, then I was told, at the time (different car to a VW) it was just a switch the lever touched and I could just turn the switch to sort my confusion, oh, the days of simplicity, but I just left it in auto as that was good enough for me in that vehicle.

 

6 hours ago, nta16 said:

Thank you for replying, don't worry about being defensive, I didn't think you were.  Sorry about confusing you, lets put it this way, if you are only interested in fuel economy then on the highway using cruise control will be steadier on the throttle so would probably be better, in city or town traffic if it can be used then automatic cruise control would probably be smoother on accelerator and brake and possibly/probably be better fuel economy.  If you want to learn to drive more, get more driving confidence and learn to drive economically then driving the car yourself using the gears if required is the way to go.

No worries,  thank you too for your replies. Ahh that's good I thought maybe I was coming across that way lol.  Yes to some degree I guess I am lol.  I know this really isn't the car for it.  It's more a car you enjoy driving, and not worry about economy too much especially in the city. Yes I completely agree with cruise on the highway. Yes also I agree about that in the city.  But lately I haven't been using it as much in the city mainly because of the issues I explained prior. Yes the gear thing. I will have to try it more. It's not like I've never tried it.  Just don't feel there's really a need.  But maybe it won't hurt to keep on trying

 

6 hours ago, nta16 said:

You may thing you are consistent with your foot but unless you are very good but you might be making small movements on the accelerator, you can test this by having the digital speedo set and instant fuel display and doing comparison tests on a same stretch of uninterrupted road conditions with ACC or CC and note the differences in the figures

It's hard to always be consistent with traffic.  You make a valid point. This digital speedo obviously is an external device. Yes that would be ideal conditions. 

 

6 hours ago, nta16 said:

I'll be honest and say I thought you had a manual gearbox (assumption, not thinking, bad memory) and I can understand for ease leaving everything to the DSG and driver aids including automatic cruise control and cruise control but that is the car taking over even more of the driving than it already does and I can't see how that will teach you more about driving the car and driving generally.

Ahh ok I understand now.  No the dsg I never learned to drive manual, a because we didn't have manual cars when I started learning at home and b I guess I was too lazy to learn even though the very first car I did some preliminary lessons at high school when I was 16 was a manual car.  But no dsg. True. You know what I actually like though about the ability to change gears with the flaps on the Octavia and i guess its the same with other skodas and perhaps vw is that it doesn't control the gear selection it doesn't select the car for you.  Mind you I've never really revved this engine to the recline so I don't know if it will hold the gear. I just am hesitant to do that. Honestly I drive way too conservatively. Whereas with my other cars especially the Cressida I didn't treat that one good but I was young and ....

 

6 hours ago, nta16 said:

DSG is about better or perhaps quicker changes as that was it's original feature possibly before you were driving, or that's my memory from the Audi drivers of the time, others than me will know better the advantages and history.  Gear selection is a different matter, you as a human can read the road ahead better and you know what you want to do the car's computers are working on very limited input in comparison and only deal with things in the immediate area and not always correctly, just like humans it makes mistakes and has brain-farts.

I think so too re dsg. Well yes and no.  I agree that I can read the road ahead but still untill I'm knowledgeable and confident I think for now it's dsg. Oh I don't know who has more brain farts me or the dsg 

I may be winning in that area 😆

 

 

8 hours ago, nta16 said:

Also not to give you the wrong idea, I'm not a very good driver and have never claimed to be, plenty of evidence of that on this site alone, and the only real further driving training I've had is a high performance car day course driving my car with instructor on the road (closed track part got cancelled which I was quite happy about) and I had a mate  that took the IAM course and became an instructor, I also have another mate that was a driving instructor for his delivery company,  When I started driving I was using old-bangers from the 1960s which you had to learn to drive and not just pass the driving test and until recently for 30+ years I was driving various 1960s and 70s old cars as daily drivers, for commuting (500 and 300 miles a week for a good number of months), for work, for tours and holidays in the UK and parts of Europe.  I also owned and drove some very basic powerful cars for leisure and pleasure, cars you had to drive without any electronic aids.  But I'm not a very good driver just have those experiences

Ahh well maybe I haven't investigated anything on this site re your driving, I'm sure though you're pretty good regardless. Even so,  you have quite a lot more experience than me if you have been driving since the 60d and 70s and also have probably a bigger range of selection of cars that you have driven and owned.  The oldest car I've driven was a late 70s car. Had no power steering, good for building those muscles up 😂. It's great that you did that high performance training with your car. That would have been quiet valuable. Your friends becoming instructors that it excellent, as well.  Did they ever give you any tips. I'm sure they probably did? I can just imagine the info you can gain from them.

 

 

5 hours ago, Warrior193 said:

There are separate settings in the maxi-dot display - one for 'consumption' and one for 'average consumption'

Thanks I will need to investigate this further.  I know there is 3 on my car.  Since start,  long term and since refuelling. I believe i can reset since start and long term.  Other than that I haven't seen a trip computer as in previous cars such as when you see trip a xxxx and trip b xxxx. Of course there is the odometer. 

5 hours ago, nta16 said:

Just remembered something, if it wasn't you just ignore it - surely you don't have to use flaps of plastic on the steering wheel to change gear can you not also use the gear stick

 

Though I admit 20+ years ago the up/down, +/- markings wit the lever for gears always confused me and I wanted to do the opposite, then I was told, at the time (different car to a VW) it was just a switch the lever touched and I could just turn the switch to sort my confusion, oh, the days of simplicity, but I just left it in auto as that was good enough for me in that vehicle

I don't know with the Octavia can you use the toggle it feels  strange I think to use the toggle. It doesn't feel natural 

 

Yeah i can really relate to that with the paddle shifters that is one thing that gets me even more confused lol I guess its just a matter of getting used to

39 minutes ago, LuxoviaRS said:

Thanks I will need to investigate this further.  I know there is 3 on my car.  Since start,  long term and since refuelling. I believe i can reset since start and long term.  Other than that I haven't seen a trip computer as in previous cars such as when you see trip a xxxx and trip b xxxx. Of course there is the odometer. 

The maxi-dot display is the small square one between the rec counter and speedometer - accessed via the right hand roller switch on the steering wheel.

Done during 2020 lockdown so it was easy for him but this shows the basics. Anticipation and reading the road. if you need to use your brakes you have wasted fuel.

 

 

3 hours ago, LuxoviaRS said:

if you have been driving since the 60d and 70s and also have probably a bigger range of selection of cars that you have driven and owned.  The oldest car I've driven was a late 70s car. Had no power steering, good for building those muscles up 😂. It's great that you did that high performance training with your car. That would have been quiet valuable. Your friends becoming instructors that it excellent, as well.  Did they ever give you any tips. I'm sure they probably did? I can just imagine the info you can gain from them.

I didn't start driving until the 1970s, I took my test as soon as I could when I was 17 in 1977 but I had to drive old bangers which were cars that were 10-15 years old, back then cars weren't as long lasting generally and unlike today where a 10-15 year old car can be pretty decent they weren't then, if you kept them a year or two more that was it.

 

All the rear-wheel-drive cars had power steering, it was the accelerator pedal.  😁  You never noticed the steering was heavy because the cars were much lighter and had smaller, narrower (more sensible) wheels and tyres and generally large steering wheels - until it came to tight kerbside parking then you could build up a bit of a sweat if you'd fitted low-profile wide tyres like 185/70r13 on 5" wide wheels.

 

The only tip my IAM mate gave me was to go on the high performance day as I already drove a car that he saw as high performance, I thought high performance was Fezza and Lambo, the other mate wasn't an instructor off the clock, and I'd known both well before, during and after them being instructors and how they both actually drive on the road. 🙂  On club events as a passenger I've been out on the normal roads sometimes showing track instructors, or one-time a magazine test driver, the route, these guys drive so smoothly you have to look at the speedo to realise the speed (all within the law) they could maneuver the car on the road, the test driver was so serene he seemed almost asleep and barely moved but out maneuvered the supercars (we didn't have hypercars in the club then), we were in an excellent handling British made car though.

 

When you have been driving cars without driver aids and convenience applications for decades through all sorts of weather and conditions you learn to adapt more, without the safety devices and crash and crumple zones to avoid accidents more as they can hurt wallets, bodies and minds and thus you learn more about the need for driver maintenance of the vehicle.  Until a couple of years ago I was driving a car that didn't even have electric relay switches let alone electronic drive aids, the model before didn't even have a cabin or boot light, parking wipers and headlight flasher were novelties 😄  - yet somehow I survive late last century and 2020s traffic easily.

 

@LuxoviaRS the video Stonekeeper put up covers it, though I'd disagree about the Eco setting for the tyres as the extra 5 psi tyre pressure on my wife's Fabia seems to give less rolling resistance (the car rolls along easier and further, noticeable with foot off accelerator) so foot can come of accelerator sooner, downside is harsher ride and less handling.  He did have an unusual drive so about as good as it could be for economical fuel driving.

 

If he had a dial to show the PS or horsepower needed or used at various points I'm sure you'd be surprised how low it would show on that journey with mild acceleration, no real steep and long rising slopes/uphills, very few electric items on, just the driver (as he said weight does make a difference for accelerating), aerodynamic as reasonably possible.  You would be especially surprised at the figure at 50mph on the straight level road without accelerating,  a very small fraction of what you have available. 

A good fuel saving method is to try to drive without actually coming to a full stop (stop signs excepted)

 

There are videos used in Midas training that show how. (No sound on them)

 

 

Even though in some situations it almost appears to stop, the vehicle is still rolling.

 

On roads in general if you don't drive on the bumper of the car in front you can save a good deal of fuel. Your focus has to be on the whole road ahead reacting to the traffic at the furthest point you can see. If you drop back you see more.