Try another fuel pump relay if the wire paths seem OK. Just because a relay clicks, doesn't mean it definitely works. The contacts can be badly burnt so that it doesn't carry enough current. 

Judging by one of your photos above, it's the one with 53 written on the top of it.

The lack of fuel pump action when opening door may be an unrelated wiring fault, meaning that the vehicle voltage control unit  (which senses door opening and triggers the fuel feed relay) may not be sensing that the door has been opened.

 

 

17 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Try another fuel pump relay if the wire paths seem OK. Just because a relay clicks, doesn't mean it definitely works. The contacts can be badly burnt so that it doesn't carry enough current. 

Judging by one of your photos above, it's the one with 53 written on the top of it.

The lack of fuel pump action when opening door may be an unrelated wiring fault, meaning that the vehicle voltage control unit  (which senses door opening and triggers the fuel feed relay) may not be sensing that the door has been opened.

 

 

No the relays do not click. Relay 53 and 429 do not click at all.

The other smaller relays, 449 and 335 click.

One way to test the wiring from fuel pump relay to fuel pump, is to link the two bigger connections (30 to 87) of position 14 in the relay holder, with relay not fitted. That should make the fuel pump run for as long as the link is there. But running it for 1 second will prove wiring OK.

 

Edited 19 November, 20241 yr by Breezy_Pete

13 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

One way to test the wiring from fuel pump relay to fuel pump, is to link the two bigger connections (30 to 87) of position 14 in the relay holder, with relay not fitted. That should make the fuel pump run for as long as the link is there. But running it for 1 second will prove wiring OK.

 

Sure, Will jump the relay and check

1 hour ago, Fotobob said:

Sure, Will jump the relay and check

Giving up for the day. The connectivity of fuel pump connector blue canle is showing upto fuse 30. Fuse 30 to relay also has connectivity. Can't understand what is up. Will make proper leads and jump the relay. The relay points are also getting 12v. The fuel pump definitely does not start, and works only with direct 12v supply. Taking the fuel pump connector off is another painful thing. Can someone suggest easier way to disengage it, pressing the clip does not help

On 18/11/2024 at 14:04, Breezy_Pete said:

These three are the main ones to focus on.

I think the one you have with an 86a terminal is probably the engine ECU relay from position 13, which has a diode between terminal 86 and the coil but not from 86a to coil, explaining your measurements.

Fuel pump relay, which is the one that may not be OK, is in position 14.

Fuel feed relay in position 10.1 is the one that provides a short run of the fuel pump when the driver's door is opened, after the car has been unopened for half an hour or more.

 

 

Also, there is a relay in slot 4. Pulled it out and checked, resistance is ok, no clicking on supply of 12v

7 minutes ago, Fotobob said:

Can someone suggest easier way to disengage it, pressing the clip does not help

If it's like most VW-group connectors, pushing the whole housing firmly onto the mating part while lifting the latch usually helps it release. Once you hear it click, stop pushing and start pulling.

 

The relay in position 4 is the X-contact relief relay.  This switches off various things when the starter motor is energised, so that maximum power is available. I think you will only hear it click just as the starter is energised, and then just as it stops being.  (Never tried though, so that's theoretical).

 

I suspect the problem you are having may be that the coil of either the ECU relay (position 13, number 429; or the fuel pump relay position 14, number 53), is not being energised for some reason. If the ECU relay isn't being energised, the fuel pump relay can't be either, because the engine ECU is controlling it's coil.

 

Check fuse 3 (5 amps) and see if the terminal labelled 6 and/or 86 on the ECU relay holder at position13 gets 12V when the ignition is switched on.

Do the same at position 14 for the fuel pump relay positive coil feed. Again with ignition switched on, but this time it is the terminal labelled 6 and/or 85 that should have 12V.

 

 

18 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

If it's like most VW-group connectors, pushing the whole housing firmly onto the mating part while lifting the latch usually helps it release. Once you hear it click, stop pushing and start pulling.

 

The relay in position 4 is the X-contact relief relay.  This switches off various things when the starter motor is energised, so that maximum power is available. I think you will only hear it click just as the starter is energised, and then just as it stops being.  (Never tried though, so that's theoretical).

 

I suspect the problem you are having may be that the coil of either the ECU relay (position 13, number 429; or the fuel pump relay position 14, number 53), is not being energised for some reason. If the ECU relay isn't being energised, the fuel pump relay can't be either, because the engine ECU is controlling it's coil.

 

Check fuse 3 (5 amps) and see if the terminal labelled 6 and/or 86 on the ECU relay holder at position13 gets 12V when the ignition is switched on.

Do the same at position 14 for the fuel pump relay positive coil feed. Again with ignition switched on, but this time it is the terminal labelled 6 and/or 85 that should have 12V.

 

 

Sure will do this. Also, my wipers come on moment I put it in ignition. Removed the fuses and refitted and this problem stopped, is this a sign of something wrong with signalling/wiring?

Just now, Fotobob said:

Sure will do this. Also, my wipers come on moment I put it in ignition. Removed the fuses and refitted and this problem stopped, is this a sign of something wrong 

2 windows rolled down and now refuse to respond. 

1 minute ago, Fotobob said:

is this a sign of something wrong with signalling/wiring?

Yes, I think so. Not sure where I would start on that one though. 

Does it keep happening each time you switch on ignition?

5 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Yes, I think so. Not sure where I would start on that one though. 

Does it keep happening each time you switch on ignition?

Now it does not happen. This happens randomly and stops also randomly. I think low voltage or loose battery connector could be an issue. Will get at it later. First the pump problem.

Managed to 

22 hours ago, Fotobob said:

Now it does not happen. This happens randomly and stops also randomly. I think low voltage or loose battery connector could be an issue. Will get at it later. First the pump problem.

Managed to open the fuse box and located the cables. Issue is not sure which one is the blue one to look for

Also, a buzzer started when I removed and refitted the fuses. It stopped intermittently but then started again. Pulled out the battery ground but it went on for a minute before dying out. Why would this happen?

On 19/11/2024 at 19:11, Breezy_Pete said:

Yes, I think so. Not sure where I would start on that one though. 

Does it keep happening each time you switch on ignition?

Would it be possible to share the fuse diagram for the fabia. I just need to ensure correct rating ones are in correct slots. Btw, unable to get identify the blue cable at fuse point 30. Will attempt again once I get the diagrams 

There isn't really such a thing, at least not as a single diagram. Different versions of mk2 Fabia from different years, with different engines and options all have different fusebox details. Even with your VIN, I don't have anywhere that shows the exact fuse assignments of your car, except if I were to go through every page of the whole wiring document picking out which options your car has, and compiling a list. I won't be doing that, sorry.

Fuse 30 will have two cables coming from the back of it, as shown in Jocko's diagram, a blue cable and a blue/white one.

Edited 20 November, 20241 yr by Breezy_Pete

1 minute ago, Breezy_Pete said:

There isn't really such a thing, at least not as a single diagram. Different versions of mk2 Fabia from different years, with different engines and options all have different fusebox details.

Fuse 30 will have two cables coming from the back of it, as shown in Jocko's diagram, a blue cable and a blue/white one.

Noted. I did trace the cables but with restricted access it is becoming a challenge to put probes for continuity check. Also, are there any reasons for the internal buzzer to go off if wiper fuse is pulled out?

Also, any engine bay fuse which could be lined to this issue?

Just now, Fotobob said:

are there any reasons for the internal buzzer to go off if wiper fuse is pulled out?

I don't know.

Just now, Fotobob said:

any engine bay fuse which could be lined to this issue?

Don't think so.

 

 

did you check the fuse mentioned yesterday:

On 19/11/2024 at 13:19, Breezy_Pete said:

Check fuse 3 (5 amps) and see if the terminal labelled 6 and/or 86 on the ECU relay holder at position13 gets 12V when the ignition is switched on.

Do the same at position 14 for the fuel pump relay positive coil feed. Again with ignition switched on, but this time it is the terminal labelled 6 and/or 85 that should have 12V.

 

 

This is kind of hitting my spirit. I am so at a loss here that it'd getting frustrating. If there were straight forward wire cuts, fuses, damage you can manage, here everything is a ghost. Will need a Ghostbusters soon if it keeps on going this way 😅 

2 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

I don't know.

Don't think so.

 

 

did you check the fuse mentioned yesterday:

 

 

I couldn't check these, was stuck at physical trace of the blue wire. Tmrw is a easy day at desk, will sneek out and get this done. You have been guiding me patiently and can't thank you enough for your he'll.

It seems very, very unlikely to me that there would be anything wrong with the blue wire(s) that connect relays 14 and 10.1 to one side of fuse 30, but it may be easier to probe such connections from the front side of the fusebox and relay panel?

 

15 minutes ago, Fotobob said:

This is kind of hitting my spirit. I am so at a loss here that it'd getting frustrating. If there were straight forward wire cuts, fuses, damage you can manage, here everything is a ghost. Will need a Ghostbusters soon if it keeps on going this way 😅 

Yes, it must be frustrating. I hope that you will find some wiring damage somewhere soon, which may explain all of this stuff.

1 hour ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Yes, it must be frustrating. I hope that you will find some wiring damage somewhere soon, which may explain all of this stuff.

Hope so too. Thanks for keeping up with me on this.

On 19/11/2024 at 18:49, Breezy_Pete said:

If it's like most VW-group connectors, pushing the whole housing firmly onto the mating part while lifting the latch usually helps it release. Once you hear it click, stop pushing and start pulling.

 

The relay in position 4 is the X-contact relief relay.  This switches off various things when the starter motor is energised, so that maximum power is available. I think you will only hear it click just as the starter is energised, and then just as it stops being.  (Never tried though, so that's theoretical).

 

I suspect the problem you are having may be that the coil of either the ECU relay (position 13, number 429; or the fuel pump relay position 14, number 53), is not being energised for some reason. If the ECU relay isn't being energised, the fuel pump relay can't be either, because the engine ECU is controlling it's coil.

 

Check fuse 3 (5 amps) and see if the terminal labelled 6 and/or 86 on the ECU relay holder at position13 gets 12V when the ignition is switched on.

Do the same at position 14 for the fuel pump relay positive coil feed. Again with ignition switched on, but this time it is the terminal labelled 6 and/or 85 that should have 12V.

 

 

Fuse 3 has no voltage.

Relay terminal has 12v

Relay terminal 14 fuel pump has 0.60v

Terminals at furl pump have 0.3v on outer terminal pins 

And 0.26 in the inner pins.

 

This is the problem. These readings are with key in ignition position.

Why do you think this could be happening.

I dismantled the air intake to check for wiring damage and found non. The fuses in the engine bay are ok. Did not open the ecu box .

Let me know if you can think of something. Thanks

Also there is 0.03 v in off position and 0.3v in onnposiyion at the fuel pump.

Does this mean we have a supply issue? 

Just now, Fotobob said:

Also there is 0.03 v in off position and 0.3v in onnposiyion at the fuel pump.

Does this mean we have a supply issue? 

@jackojacko can you please comment.

Look again at Jocko's diagram.

 

If connection 85 of the fuel pump relay position (14) does not get 12V when ignition is on, that relay can never be turned on/energised.

 

The wiring to it is simple. Strip fuse in engine bay to ignition switch, then ignition switch to relay holder. 

Edited 23 November, 20241 yr by Breezy_Pete

1 minute ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Look again at Jocko's diagram.

 

If connection 85 to the fuel pump relay position (14) does not get 12V when ignition is on, that relay can never be turned on/energised.

 

The wiring to it is simple. Strip fuse in engine bay to ignition switch, then ignition switch to relay holder. 

Great. Can you please help me with location of ignition switch and which fuee to tap to ignition. Thanks