1 hour ago, Breezy_Pete said:

So there is nothing wrong with the wiring to the fuel pump relay terminals 30 and 85. 

See what the voltage is at terminal 86 also, please, on position 14, the fuel pump relay socket when ignition is switched on.

That should be connected to pin 26 at your engine ECU, and I expect that to sit at 12V approx, when ECU is not trying to run the fuel pump, and be at 0V any time it is trying to.

Monitor the voltage before, during and after ignition is switched on.

 

Correct it is 0 and ignition position it shows 12v. 

When you say ECU pin 26, you mean the engine bay? 

1 hour ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Sorry, just realised. Before you try that stuff with terminal 86 at position 14, refit the ECU in relay in position 13.

Yes did that. The readings mentioned above are with relay in position in slot 13. Also, when I jumped the point 30-87 and 85-86 the fuel pump started. Such a relief. The display did not show any fuel level and neither did the car start. But jumping the relay seems to have done the job. I suppose not clicking in relay is clear sign of relay gone bad. Will buy in new ones tmrw and see what happens after that.

The fact that terminal 86 goes to 12V means the connection to engine ECU (yes, connector in engine bay) is good. 

 

Maybe the relay is bad, or maybe the engine ECU is not commanding control of that output (taking that connection to 0V when it wants fuel pump to run). Trying a replacement (new, ideally) relay is probably easiest way to decide which of these things is happening.

 

 

13 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

The fact that terminal 86 goes to 12V means the connection to engine ECU (yes, connector in engine bay) is good. 

 

Maybe the relay is bad, or maybe the engine ECU is not commanding control of that output (taking that connection to 0V when it wants fuel pump to run). Trying a replacement (new, ideally) relay is probably easiest way to decide which of these things is happening.

 

 

When you say, you mean the ECU in the engine bay. I see no wiring damage in and out of the box. Not wanting to open the ECU is my strategy unless you think it is required. What else could be the reason for not getting the fuel level reading. What should be the voltage on the inner pins?  Do these pins indicate the fuel level? Currently I get no reading on display and not warning of low fuel.

Yes, the engine ECU and its connectors are in the engine bay, as I said in the first sentence of what you just quoted!  Don't do anything there, it's OK.

 

Go back to the wiring diagram supplied by Jocko, and look at the bottom right side of it. It shows the fuel gauge sensor at the fuel pump, the wires from it, and their destinations at the dash panel insert (instrument cluster, in front of steering wheel).

These connections sometimes go bad between the male part of the connector and the circuit board. The fuel gauge ones are pins 15 and 32, just about accessible without taking all the needles off.

I've numbered the connections in this image. If you have a soldering iron you could try carefully re-melting joints No.15 and No.32. Ignore the yellow arrow on the picture, that was to show the immobiliser connections.

 

I am not sure what voltage is to be expected on these. 

I don't think that the gauge not showing fuel level will affect the relay or ECU function.

I think i have to leave you to make some progress on this without my help, it's taking too much of my time, sorry.

1 hour ago, Breezy_Pete said:

I think i have to leave you to make some progress on this without my help, it's taking too much of my time, sorry.

I do understand. Thank you so much for the help so far. I will continue posting on this thread and whenever you do find the time do browse. I won't tag you

On 26/11/2024 at 19:59, Breezy_Pete said:

I think i have to leave you to make some progress on this without my help, it's taking too much of my time, sorry.

Pete, wanted to share this with you. The car cranked and started. Hesitant at low rpm but it started. 

Cleaned the contacts again, back of the fuse box, battery connectors and Most importantly replaced the fuel pump relay.

Cannot thank you enough for the guidance. The car starts, such a relief. 

Now to work towards sorting out the low rpm struggle and stabilizing the idle rpm. Too much hissing and vacuum sounds. I may have installed the air filter box incorrectly I think. 

Thank you once again.

It's great to hear you got it going.

19 hours ago, Jocko said:

It's great to hear you got it going.

Thank you for the diagram. It cleared up the confusion on the wiring and help trace the fault. The relays can be safely blamed for it. Minor wiring issues were there but this probably is relay. I still don't get fuel level reading in the display. Will tackle that later, need to resolve the erratic idle.

Guess I must not assembled the air supply correctly. 

Thank you once again for the support.

2 hours ago, Fotobob said:

Thank you for the diagram. It cleared up the confusion on the wiring and help trace the fault. The relays can be safely blamed for it. Minor wiring issues were there but this probably is relay. I still don't get fuel level reading in the display. Will tackle that later, need to resolve the erratic idle.

Guess I must not assembled the air supply correctly. 

Thank you once again for the support.

Will make a proper step wise record on how this was done and maybe help someone stuck in the same situation as me.

So the current update i that the engine cranks but badly. There is a l.ot of misfiring and the idle is very poor. There is a lot of hissing. Now to research why and how. Do share your thoughts. Will update as and when I do make some progress

27 minutes ago, Fotobob said:

So the current update i that the engine cranks but badly. There is a l.ot of misfiring and the idle is very poor. There is a lot of hissing. Now to research why and how. Do share your thoughts. Will update as and when I do make some progress

Also, I see oil in the square marked blue in the image. Why would that be happening? 
Plan on opening he ignition coils and removing spark plugs for inspection. Crank sensor is a difficult location to reach but will do if the inspection does not yield any results. Do comment to help resolving. Thanks

 

The blue square is your oil pressure switch. When these start to fail, oil leaks out through them.

 

2 minutes ago, Fotobob said:

I see oil in the square marked blue in the image. Why would that be happening?

I think the square contains the oil pressure sender. These sometimes leak.

 

I'd suggest wiping it clean, and seeing if you get oil on again before replacing.

 

BTW @Breezy_Pete posted while I was typing this.

Thank you. I suppose the bad idle is not helping. Planning on taking off the ignition coils and plugs to inspect. The idle is pretty bad and hoping it is just the plugs.

On 18/01/2025 at 19:12, Paws4Thot said:

I think the square contains the oil pressure sender. These sometimes leak.

 

I'd suggest wiping it clean, and seeing if you get oil on again before replacing.

 

BTW @Breezy_Pete posted while I was typing this.

 

On 18/01/2025 at 19:12, Paws4Thot said:

I think the square contains the oil pressure sender. These sometimes leak.

 

I'd suggest wiping it clean, and seeing if you get oil on again before replacing.

 

BTW @Breezy_Pete posted while I was typing this.

Noticed that. Thank you for the reposne.