Yap its ok ...

And I put in another battery that I have in reserve that was the same.
 

It's funny, I removed the map sensor and went to start the machine and it didn't start instantly but it was fickle because it wasn't there.

 

 

It has this corrosion that you can see on one of the pins.

Cables, wires, connectors (including all earths) all need to be in good or reasonable condition all clean, secure and protected,  For diagnosis of an electrical/electronic and/or starting problem you are best to have the 12v battery fully charged and in a good state of heath and connection(s) or at very least reasonable in all.  As proven by the corrasion you have highlighted in your photo, corrosion like that in various places could be the cause of your problem - all needs to be clean, secure and protected (otherwise the corrosion may return)

 

All sensor need to be in good or reasonable condition and correct for the specific vehicle (or engine if engine change).

 

Just because a part is new doesn't rule out it possibly being faulty or perhaps incorrect for vehicle/engine.  For cars of this age they can be fastidious about the sensors fitted. 

 

I remember well an owner oh here having problems starting the engine (in very cold) and all other posters, including me, thought the starter motor sounded fine in his video but it was the starter at fault.  Now I am not saying either of your starters are at faulty, I could not know over the internet anyway, but if the fitting or wiring to it, or anywhere else has an issue it could present this yes/no to starting the engine.

 

You need to do proper diagnostics, using your eyes, ears, nose, feel, taste, brain / common sense and use of any other diagnostic tools you can get or make.  For electrics on starting the engine you could start at the battery and go forward from there, a multimeter would be handy (as might be a scan tool) but the previously mentioned diagnostics tools are needed regardless.

 

Another person with you might notice something obvious you have missed, often these problems can relate to something simple and basic that has ben overlooked or ignored or not checked, or not double/treble-checked or thoroughly enough.  Something like  a bit of crud/corrosion on the inside of a battery terminal clamp if missed will still play up even with a change of battery (and (I am not saying this is your problem, how could I).

 

Either follow previous suggestions or start a clear path of diagnostics and stick with that path and double and treble check as required and make no assumptions.  There may be more than one issue combined or separately contributing to the issue so if you want to know the cause(s) then do not be changing more than one part at once and do not assume that an existing or replaced part was fully working correctly even if it was working or that it was fully correctly fitted.  Check and cross -reference any existing parts are correct and working correctly, or not, before putting on a new same part and how it is fitted.

 

Good luck.

 

 

Have you checked compression after valve adjustment? Was there any change?

17 hours ago, nta16 said:

Cables, wires, connectors (including all earths) all need to be in good or reasonable condition all clean, secure and protected,  For diagnosis of an electrical/electronic and/or starting problem you are best to have the 12v battery fully charged and in a good state of heath and connection(s) or at very least reasonable in all.  As proven by the corrasion you have highlighted in your photo, corrosion like that in various places could be the cause of your problem - all needs to be clean, secure and protected (otherwise the corrosion may return)

 

All sensor need to be in good or reasonable condition and correct for the specific vehicle (or engine if engine change).

 

Just because a part is new doesn't rule out it possibly being faulty or perhaps incorrect for vehicle/engine.  For cars of this age they can be fastidious about the sensors fitted. 

 

I remember well an owner oh here having problems starting the engine (in very cold) and all other posters, including me, thought the starter motor sounded fine in his video but it was the starter at fault.  Now I am not saying either of your starters are at faulty, I could not know over the internet anyway, but if the fitting or wiring to it, or anywhere else has an issue it could present this yes/no to starting the engine.

 

You need to do proper diagnostics, using your eyes, ears, nose, feel, taste, brain / common sense and use of any other diagnostic tools you can get or make.  For electrics on starting the engine you could start at the battery and go forward from there, a multimeter would be handy (as might be a scan tool) but the previously mentioned diagnostics tools are needed regardless.

 

Another person with you might notice something obvious you have missed, often these problems can relate to something simple and basic that has ben overlooked or ignored or not checked, or not double/treble-checked or thoroughly enough.  Something like  a bit of crud/corrosion on the inside of a battery terminal clamp if missed will still play up even with a change of battery (and (I am not saying this is your problem, how could I).

 

Either follow previous suggestions or start a clear path of diagnostics and stick with that path and double and treble check as required and make no assumptions.  There may be more than one issue combined or separately contributing to the issue so if you want to know the cause(s) then do not be changing more than one part at once and do not assume that an existing or replaced part was fully working correctly even if it was working or that it was fully correctly fitted.  Check and cross -reference any existing parts are correct and working correctly, or not, before putting on a new same part and how it is fitted.

 

Good luck.

 

 

 

Yap I'll check all cables 👌

 

38 minutes ago, Papez said:

Have you checked compression after valve adjustment? Was there any change?

 

I didn't check, because the device I had belonged to a friend and was homemade. I had to force it myself and it wouldn't work.

 

I'll have to see if I can buy one.

But the motor works fine when it's running, or should I still check?

 

The problem is:
 ---
There must be some kind of energy leak (I think) because with either the new or old coil, when I test the spark plugs outside, sometimes it makes a good spark and at other times it doesn't seem to turn on at all or at all. It's strange that when the engine is running it runs fine. I only tested it once when I was driving and when I put it in neutral the car switched off and then it took a while to start again and after a while it started.

1 hour ago, Joob said:

I only tested it once when I was driving and when I put it in neutral the car switched off and then it took a while to start again and after a while it started.

 

Have you checked engine's grounding wire? Sounds like if the engine movement randomly connected and disconnected it.

Edited 17 October, 20241 yr by Papez

I'll check the grounding wire and others cables now :/

I'll do a checkup 👌

An easy way to check the ground/earth is to use a sufficiently thick jump cable from the battery negative terminal to a good earth point on the engine, if the engine starts quicker/better this way then you know you do not have a good earth connection to the engine from the battery and/or chassis.  Even if this test makes no difference you still want to check the earth wires and cables in case they are intermittent.  Before putting the engine back into the engine bay is a good time to remove inspect and clean (or replace as required) the engine and battery main earth cables.

 

Good luck.

 

Edited 17 October, 20241 yr by nta16
missing word

Nice tip 👌 

I'll do that 👌

 

Tkss

On 16/10/2024 at 17:10, Joob said:

 

It has this corrosion that you can see on one of the pins.

 

Mine was much-much worst not only in the MAP but also in the 2 plugs of the ECU.

A thoroughly cleaning and a contact cleaner spray or electrical grease is a ''must''.

I have never used one so do not know how good they are but you can get a variety of fibreglass pen bushes, that you use on that corrosion first then use a spray electrical contact cleaner and when that has dried away use something like Contralube 770 to offer more protection. - https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p/contralube-770-the-terminal-connector

 

Yap the corrosion is not good of course..  Yap I cleaned all the grounding... but incredibly, though, he continued to have the same symptoms.

Edited 17 October, 20241 yr by Joob

I have penetration sprays, greases, oils, silicones, etc. but I have to buy a contact cleaner and check out this grease

 

I seem to have some news.

 

In other words, when I changed the engine gasket and assembled everything ... I tried to start the machine and nothing came on. In the meantime, I had changed the crankshaft sensor for a new one. After that, I did the valve adjustments etc. Then I went to test it with the old crankshaft sensor (which must be 2 years old) and the car started smoothly even after disconnecting it, etc. I did it 5 times and it was always a machine!

 

I'll check it out tomorrow and see how it goes, and then I'll let you know if it was the new sensor. 👌 Everything points to yes!

 

Dammmmm
 

Tell me..

I have a problem if I put the new one spark plugs with 3-Electrodons .. Now in the engineer I have old spark plugs with 1-Electrodons.

 

It's ok to put that (3-Electrodons) ?

1 hour ago, Joob said:

Tell me..

I have a problem if I put the new one spark plugs with 3-Electrodons .. Now in the engineer I have old spark plugs with 1-Electrodons.

 

It's ok to put that (3-Electrodons) ?

 

With 1 Electrode is better ? Like BKR6EIX

 

 

7 hours ago, Joob said:

Tell me..

I have a problem if I put the new one spark plugs with 3-Electrodons .. Now in the engineer I have old spark plugs with 1-Electrodons.

 

It's ok to put that (3-Electrodons) ?

 

On 11/10/2024 at 08:48, Papez said:

What's the exact type? The 3-electrode plugs are what should be there, but the electrode spacing may be different.

 

This has been answered before... The recommended plugs are Champion RC89PYC, Brisk DR15TC and NGK BKUR5ET-10. I had the best experience with Brisk plugs.

2 hours ago, Papez said:

Champion RC89PYC

 

Factory, the best choice.

I have used 2 brands Iridium spark plugs and never worked properly, also Bosch NGK with not good results.

My Felicia is with ECU ship, custom exhaust, K&N filter and the Champion RC89PYC were/are/will be the No1.

10 hours ago, Joob said:

Now in the engineer I have old spark plugs with 1-Electrodons.

 

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/491830-ngk-bkur5et-10-your-opinion-about-them/

 

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/503282-ngk-iridium-bkr5eix-11-do-they-look-good/

 

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/504479-denso-ik16-iridium-which-never-worked-for-me/

 

Only bad experiences i had with other spark plugs except the Champion platinum.

Just to complete the set - I would always favour (genuine, apparently there are fakes being sold) NGK spark plugs, certainty over Bosch and Champion, I had used Champion for many years but found NGK better.  I did once try the (Bosch) three prong but did not find there to be of any gain.  I have never heard of Brisk let alone used them so can't comment on them.  For later models apparently the VW box labelled spark plugs are NGK inside the box.

 

As a general rule anything electronic like sensors I would always favour Japanese built over Germany built (or German labelled but perhaps built elsewhere) but as I put before it seems this age of VW is happier with the specific sensors generally and if that is Bosch (or Bosch labelled) then so be it.

 

ETA:  Obviously whatever make of sparkplug you try it must be suitable for your engine set up, putting in an unsuitable NGK, Champion, Brisk, Bosch, etc. etc., make of spark plug will not give best results, so comparing, as examples only, an inappropriate say Champion plug against an appropriate say Bosch will make that appropriate Bosch plug better than the inappropriate Champion plug.  As we say here, "it is horses for courses" - things need to be suitable/appropriate to each other, plug to engine set up.

 

I am not sure if this applies to your engine, but just in case it does, but it does not apply to engine intermittent starting.

 

Whether this information only applies to UK and/or Europe I cannot remember, the information, or marketing, for your part of the world might be different.

 

Just looking at a previous thread that D.FYLAKTOS has linked to I see that for the 135 and 136 MPI engines NGK list BKR6EIX (6418) (single, fine electrode) as the standard NGK plug for these engines (unless LPG which is a different plug).

 

The problem was definitely with the crankshaft sensor, which had a problem and was new!

 

I put the old one back in and this machine!

 

I'll see if I can buy some of these spark plugs! 👌

Thanks for all guys 👌💪 !

 

Edited 18 October, 20241 yr by Joob

22 hours ago, Joob said:

The problem was definitely with the crankshaft sensor, which had a problem and was new!

 

I put the old one back in and this machine!

This can often be the case.  Either the new sensor might not be fully appropriate and/or a lot of new stuff is poorly made and it is chance how well it works, or at all.  Sometimes (not always) you can be better sticking with an original part than replacing with a new part, even regardless of the manufacturer or manufacturer's label on the box.  As a general rule for me always Japanese over Chinese or German for these sort of things (and generally).

 

Edited 19 October, 20241 yr by nta16
typos

@Joob Let's hope that this was your final problem and the engine will start and work properly, then it's time for the champagne.