I thik i posted it.

Isn't this?

28 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I thik i posted it.

Isn't this?

 

Yes, I saw that. But just to understand better...

 

I put on piston 1 and with the exhaust valve closing and the intake valve starting to open from piston 4 I tune piston 4 with 0.20mm and 0.25mm ... then piston 3 with piston 1 etc ... Right?

 

The engine head where the spark plugs are located indicates this position:

 

1 - 4 - 2 - 3

or 

1 - 4 - 3 - 2

 

I dont remember if 2/3 or 3/2 I'll check that again.
 

I think is 1  4  2  3.

Right.
I do it the way you were saying, is that it?
 

19 hours ago, Joob said:

1 Piston - 3 bars
2 Piston - 2.5 bars
3 Piston - 3 bars
4 Piston - 1 bar

OH A CATASTROPHE
they should be more than 9 bars, that's catastrophic 
Before proceeding further check the valve clearance or better yet completely remove the valve train and perform compression test again

When cylinder 4 has both valves overlapping you adjust cylinder 1
When cylinder 2 has both valves overlapping you adjust cylinder 3

When cylinder 1 has both valves overlapping you adjust cylinder 4

When cylinder 3 has both valves overlapping you adjust cylinder 2

Hmm but I have a problem..

 

For example, when I overlap cylinder 4 with cylinder 1, only the intake valve is loose and the exhaust valve is tight and can't be relieved, so the spring is always under pressure.

 

Cylinder 4
 

 

Cylinder 1

 

Its the same for cylinder 2 (overlap) with cylinder 3..

 

The intake was closed and the exhaust valve was open. And even if you loosen the exhaust screw, it's always under pressure and you can't fine-tune it.
 

Check example

 

 

 

3 hours ago, Joob said:

For example, when I overlap cylinder 4 with cylinder 1, only the intake valve is loose and the exhaust valve is tight and can't be relieved, so the spring is always under pressure.

 

I think you havent understand what valve overlap is
While rotating the engine your helper keeps an eye on cylinder 4 valves
The sequence is going to be
Intake valve will open
Intake valve will close
Compression stroke
Power stroke
Exhaust valve will open
Then will come a time where as THE EXHAUST VALVE IS CLOSING THE INTAKE ONE IS OPENING, so both valves will be slightly depressed at the same time.
This is the point where you stop and adjust cylinder 1 valves

That's right, I did it afterwards, from 4 to 1, from 1 to 4, from 3 to 2 and from 2 to 3.

 

I made several adjustments with 0.20mm exhaust and 0.25mm intake.. and managed to get the car to start, one time it was hard to start but it started and then I accelerated and it kept going but then it switched off. And one of the times it started badly too and sent a rater.

The last attempt was this and nothing.
 

 

 

And the last one because the night is coming

 

 

 

I still think you lack compression, something major has happened, please remove the rocker shaft and the pushrods and perform a compression test with all the valves not moving.
This is the only way to know if its valve train related or engine related

I have news guys.
The machine is already on as you can see in the video, and it's just right.

 

 

 

In other words, the machine was left on for about 5 minutes, I turned it off and assembled everything and put in the 3-electrode spark plugs, and assembled the rest. 

After assembling everything, no, the machine didn't start! 

I thought it was strange and went to put in the old 1-electrode spark plugs (because in the video above they were with the old spark plugs) and it's funny that they didn't start either.

 

In the meantime, I went to see if the coil was sparking with both plugs and it was sparking badly, only once in a while.

 

I thought it was strange and went to buy a new coil thinking that the old coil had died. I put in the new coil and no, it didn't start.

 

I think it's strange :/ it's been working so well and out of the blue it won't start.

 

His ignition fuses are the first 10 and the third 15 ... The relays aren't part of the ignition, right?

 

Any suggestions?

 

Exactly .. 

 

Tell me..

I had put in a 1.1Kwh starter instead of a 1.7Kwh starter. That video above of it turning on was with the 1.7Kwh starter. 

 

I have a 61Ah 600A battery.

 

But that can't influence it, right?

Starters for Felicia 1.3 are around 0,8-1.1 kW

1.7-1.8 kW are for diesel 1.9

16 hours ago, Joob said:

Exactly .. 

 

Tell me..

I had put in a 1.1Kwh starter instead of a 1.7Kwh starter. That video above of it turning on was with the 1.7Kwh starter. 

 

I have a 61Ah 600A battery.

 

But that can't influence it, right?

I still havent understood how now you are putting the starter in the mix?
A starter is a dc motor if it turns it turns, and with such low compression its not gonna matter if its 1kW or 1MW

3 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Starters for Felicia 1.3 are around 0,8-1.1 kW

1.7-1.8 kW are for diesel 1.9

 

Tkss 👌 but there's no problem using this engine, right? just because it has more power.. 

 

58 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

I still havent understood how now you are putting the starter in the mix?
A starter is a dc motor if it turns it turns, and with such low compression its not gonna matter if its 1kW or 1MW

 

Yes I know.. but at the time it seemed like the right thing to do and I also put in a new one for 1.7kw.

 

I have the following symptom.
The engine is running perfectly in sync, it's working perfectly.

 

The problem is... sometimes it's hard to start and it doesn't start at all... The ignition coil is new, the flywheel sensor is new, I've even put in the old starter which is fine. 

 

I test it with the coil on the ground and sometimes there's very little spark and sometimes there isn't. Then I test it 3 times and there's a good spark, I connect the spark plugs again with a new coil and it starts. I took it for a spin and then it turned off when I put it in neutral. Then it struggled to start again and it was the same thing, I tested the spark plugs and then it started.

 

I spent 15 minutes with the engine running smoothly and pumping well... I turned it off and after 3 minutes I turned it on and nothing, it didn't start. 

 

Could it be the map sensor... in the intake manifold... or the throttle?

 

The car seems to have spark gaps, even with a new engine.
 

its either a bad ground or more commonly the temperature sensor

Was I supposed to use the multimeter on the red border and the car's chassis to check the voltage? On the engine block voltage. 

 

The temperature sensors such as the thermostat and the radiator fan are new.
 

a voltage drop test in reference to battery negative is okay or a visual inspection