Hello guys,

 

That's it, I've changed the head/exhaust/intake gasket and the bolts etc.

 

I also bought new spark plugs, but when I bought them, I noticed that the old ones I had were 1-pole, and the new ones were/are 3-pole, is that OK?

 

I put in the old 3-pole ones, connected everything up, etc. I started the machine and it started, but the engine was a bit shaky, inconsistent and if I stopped accelerating the car would die. In the meantime, I thought, it's just the spark plugs, so I put the old 1-pole plugs back in.

 

I went to start it and it just spun and spun and spun and the engine wouldn't start. I put the 3-pole spark plugs back in and it didn't start again. To this day it won't start again, it just goes round and round.

 

I also noticed that the flywheel rotates the pistons, because in the video you can see the valve screw moving.

(video below)

 

 

 

 

 

I thought it sounded strange and ordered a new starter motor, thinking that the one I had was damaged.

This video above is just with the new starter.

 

 

I began to think it was strange and that it might be the spark plug coil that wasn't sparking the plugs.

Is it OK to test the spark plugs in this way if they spark?

 

 

I don't know if you can tell me the correct measurement values for these coils.

I measure the coil itself, where the old ones fit in, and they're all around 8.30ohms.
I measured the pins where the plug fits, and on the multimeter in the diode area, I measured the pins and it only read the 2nd, 3rd and 4th pins, giving 1.5 and 1.9, more or less.

 

The fuses are OK, I've tested them.

 

 

I've done these gasket changes before and had no problems.

Has anyone ever had a situation like this?

 

 

Best Regards,

Joob

 

Edited 10 October, 20241 yr by Joob

12 minutes ago, Joob said:

Hello guys,

 

That's it, I've changed the head/exhaust/intake gasket and the bolts etc.

 

I also bought new spark plugs, but when I bought them, I noticed that the old ones I had were 1-pole, and the new ones were/are 3-pole, is that OK?

 

I put in the old 3-pole ones, connected everything up, etc. I started the machine and it started, but the engine was a bit shaky, inconsistent and if I stopped accelerating the car would die. In the meantime, I thought, it's just the spark plugs, so I put the old 1-pole plugs back in.

 

I went to start it and it just spun and spun and spun and the engine wouldn't start. I put the 3-pole spark plugs back in and it didn't start again. To this day it won't start again, it just goes round and round.

 

I also noticed that the flywheel rotates the pistons, because in the video you can see the valve screw moving.

(video below)

 

 

 

 

 

I thought it sounded strange and ordered a new starter motor, thinking that the one I had was damaged.

This video above is just with the new starter.

 

 

I began to think it was strange and that it might be the spark plug coil that wasn't sparking the plugs.

Is it OK to test the spark plugs in this way if they spark?

 

 

I don't know if you can tell me the correct measurement values for these coils.

I measure the coil itself, where the old ones fit in, and they're all around 8.30ohms.
I measured the pins where the plug fits, and on the multimeter in the diode area, I measured the pins and it only read the 2nd, 3rd and 4th pins, giving 1.5 and 1.9, more or less.

 

The fuses are OK, I've tested them.

 

 

I've done these gasket changes before and had no problems.

Has anyone ever had a situation like this?

 

 

Best Regards,

Joob

 

 

 

I also forgot to mention that when I try to start the car, the pistons/plugs are filled with gasoline, i.e. there doesn't seem to be any spark, whether the plugs are old or new.

I it looks like the problem is in the coil.
they don't spark at all, neither with the new spark plugs nor with the old ones.

 

 

 

17 hours ago, Joob said:

I also bought new spark plugs, but when I bought them, I noticed that the old ones I had were 1-pole, and the new ones were/are 3-pole, is that OK?

 

What's the exact type? The 3-electrode plugs are what should be there, but the electrode spacing may be different.

12 hours ago, Joob said:

I it looks like the problem is in the coil.
they don't spark at all, neither with the new spark plugs nor with the old ones.

 

They won't spark like this. The plugs need to be connected to ground, normally it's done through the engine block.

 

The first video was without plugs? It sounds like there's no compression, have you measured it?

 

Diagnostics would say more. Basically the engine should run as long as you have fuel, spark and working crankshaft sensor.

Edited 11 October, 20241 yr by Papez

Thank you for your reply.

 

3 hours ago, Papez said:

What's the exact type? The 3-electrode plugs are what should be there, but the electrode spacing may be different.

 

It doesn't turn on with 1 electrode as much as with 3 electrodes.

 

3 hours ago, Papez said:

The first video was without plugs? It sounds like there's no compression, have you measured it?

 

The first video had everything connected, spark plugs etc. with both new and old plugs.

It even started once, but then I turned it off, changed the spark plugs to old ones and it didn't start again, etc.

 

3 hours ago, Papez said:

They won't spark like this. The plugs need to be connected to ground, normally it's done through the engine block.

 

Oh correct..

 

 

Can I touch the spark plug to the valve cover? And is that the right part of the spark plug?

Do they all need to be or is just one enough?

 

The problem is that the spark plugs are filled with petrol when I try to start the motor, because there is no explosion/spark.

 

 

So... I went to test the ignition coil again.

(the video makes some noise)

 

The ignition coil is ok alright ? Does the spark seem ok?

 

 

 

When I turn the key and it tries to start, shouldn't the throttle open slightly?

While I was trying to open the throttle, I could sometimes hear a explosion (plok).

 

 

The video starting..

Opening the butterfly

 

 

 

The crankshaft sensor must have been replaced about 1y or 2y a ago.

What would be the way to test it with a multimeter? values etc.?

 

Hello guys..

 

Now I test the crankshaft sensor and I think its not good. 

 

 

When I try generate voltage, it only gives me 0 volts, it doesn't generate 3/5 volts
 

 

 

Is this the right way to test it?

 

Thank you guys

 

Edited 12 October, 20241 yr by Joob

 

 

 

5 hours ago, Joob said:

crankshaft sensor

 

Run a scan tool or just made an ECU reset, tampering with this may cause an error and the memory will "hold it" and the car will turn off suddenly.

It happened to me in the past while i was on the road.

On 10/10/2024 at 16:45, Joob said:

I also bought new spark plugs, but when I bought them, I noticed that the old ones I had were 1-pole, and the new ones were/are 3-pole, is that OK?

Non issue

 

On 10/10/2024 at 16:45, Joob said:

I went to start it and it just spun and spun and spun and the engine wouldn't start. I put the 3-pole spark plugs back in and it didn't start again. To this day it won't start again, it just goes round and round.

 

I also noticed that the flywheel rotates the pistons, because in the video you can see the valve screw moving.

(video below)

are you sure you have compression?

 

On 10/10/2024 at 16:45, Joob said:

I measure the coil itself, where the old ones fit in, and they're all around 8.30ohms.
I measured the pins where the plug fits, and on the multimeter in the diode area, I measured the pins and it only read the 2nd, 3rd and 4th pins, giving 1.5 and 1.9, more or less.

The coil is fine

18 hours ago, Joob said:

When I turn the key and it tries to start, shouldn't the throttle open slightly?

While I was trying to open the throttle, I could sometimes hear a explosion (plok).

yes the ECU decides the opening for the starting sequence. it will automatically open the throttle as much as its needed while keeping all 4 injectors spraying fuel simultaneously

 

18 hours ago, Joob said:

The video starting..

Opening the butterfly

That doesn't sound right, first and foremost you don't touch the throttle yourself, let the ecu take control, secondly are you sure you are getting fuel?
Spray some ether and see if the vehicle starts!
Seee if you have injectors and fuel pressure.
And see about compression

Nice videos of test spark plugs 👌

I don't have a reader to read this car.

 

To reset the ecu, all you have to do is disconnect it from the battery and wait 10 minutes ? I've left it unplugged all night to let the battery charge and still nothing.

I've always assumed that the ECU opens the throttle slightly on its own, but even if it did I didn't turn it on, and I've sprayed brake cleaner and nothing.

 

Petrol has pressure, it comes on strong, I've seen that. 

 

I don't have any tools to check the compression... but I've changed the head gasket and reworked the head.... 

 

8 hours ago, Joob said:

Hello guys..

 

Now I test the crankshaft sensor and I think its not good. 

 

 

When I try generate voltage, it only gives me 0 volts, it doesn't generate 3/5 volts
 

 

 

Is this the right way to test it?

 

Thank you guys

 

 

Is not possible from this ?

 

1 hour ago, Joob said:

I don't have any tools to check the compression

 

Neither the majority of every day drivers, that's for a mechanic.

He also use a gauge tester like this

https://www.apexinds.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/atcltu32-20_640x640.jpg

to check if you have fuel pressure and your injections status.

 

Engine start spray.

2 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Neither the majority of every day drivers, that's for a mechanic.

He also use a gauge tester like this

https://www.apexinds.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/atcltu32-20_640x640.jpg

to check if you have fuel pressure and your injections status.

 

I need to buy this one.

 

Check the another video .. The crankshaft sensor is new but nothing dammm

 

 

 

2 hours ago, Joob said:

Check the another video .. The crankshaft sensor is new but nothing dammm

 

Each video sounds like the starter has no load at all - which would suggest low or no compression. Did you set up valve clearance correctly after head gasket job?

Edited 12 October, 20241 yr by Papez

Yes, it has a very strange sound... it spins very freely.

 

It's like that, I thought about the valves too, but I don't think they were touched when I had the head rectified.

I've done it once and I didn't have to touch the valves.

 

Can you tell me what the intake and exhaust measurements are?

 

I'm going to put some gas in the throttle area of the intake and see what happens, but surely there must be something wrong with the valves.

 

The strange thing is that the first time I changed the head gasket etc... I turned it on and the car started and was a bit fickle, then I turned it off and it didn't start again until today.

30 minutes ago, Joob said:

intake and exhaust measurements are?

 

0,25 In and 0,20 Out is for my Felicia.

51 minutes ago, Joob said:

It's like that, I thought about the valves too, but I don't think they were touched when I had the head rectified.

I've done it once and I didn't have to touch the valves.

 

 

That could be the issue. Since it's a pushrod engine, any head-off procedure requires adjustment. Atleast twice, because the head gasket will squish a bit after a few heating cycles.

 

It's possible that the clearance was set too low and valves didn't close properly. That can result in heat damage.

 

Compression test would tell for sure. Tool for that isn't expensive.

Thank you for you reply.

 

I'll check their measurements.

Do you know the correct valve values?

 

Yap is cheap 20€ more or less

 

1 hour ago, Papez said:

 

That could be the issue. Since it's a pushrod engine, any head-off procedure requires adjustment. Atleast twice, because the head gasket will squish a bit after a few heating cycles.

 

It's possible that the clearance was set too low and valves didn't close properly. That can result in heat damage.

 

Compression test would tell for sure. Tool for that isn't expensive.

 

Alright, thank you.
I managed to test the compression with a handmade tool from a friend.

 

Piston Bars 
(from left to right)
----
1 Piston - 3 bars
2 Piston - 2.5 bars
3 Piston - 3 bars
4 Piston - 1 bar

 

They would all have to be around 3 bars, right?

 

I'll try to look up the valve sizes, does anyone know?
 

Edited 12 October, 20241 yr by Joob

 

 

 

 

13 minutes ago, Joob said:

They would all have to be around 3 bars, right?

Equally to the point, they should all be within 10% of each other and 2 and 4 are both outside this.

2 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

 

0,25 In and 0,20 Out is for my Felicia.

 

Oh sorry man I didn't see that.. Thank you 👌

16 hours ago, Joob said:

 

Alright, thank you.
I managed to test the compression with a handmade tool from a friend.

 

Piston Bars 
(from left to right)
----
1 Piston - 3 bars
2 Piston - 2.5 bars
3 Piston - 3 bars
4 Piston - 1 bar

 

They would all have to be around 3 bars, right?

 

I'll try to look up the valve sizes, does anyone know?
 

 

It should be around 1,1-1,2Mpa on a new engine, I found around 0.9Mpa for a worn engine, difference bellow 0.1MPa. 3bar (0.3MPa) is way too low. Rule out measurement error, otherwise it's really bad.

Edited 13 October, 20241 yr by Papez

Thanks for the tip.

 

Can you give me a simple explanation of how to tune the valves?

 

Is it piston 1 with piston 4? etc. ?