Hi guys,

Any topic or post about rear brake upgrade. Would like to change from drums to disc. Škoda 105, 1987 year, 4 speed

Remember good quality tyres in good quality condition have a big effect of braking (steering and suspension (road holding, handling, comfort and noise)) and keeping maintained and if required adjusted if not self-adjusting.

Have a look in Classic Skoda Guides. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/178-classic-skoda-guides/

Classic Škoda Projects. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/206-classic-skoda-projects/

And perhaps(?) in Performance & Tuning Upgrades. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/

For photo if you hold your camera/phone in landscape generally it gets more info into the picture (unless it is a portrait or vertical shot like tyre tread, person/people standing, lamppost, flagpole, etc.). Unless you wanted to included the lamppost light to show how bright your front light bar is.

HTH.

10 hours ago, nta16 said:

Remember good quality tyres in good quality condition have a big effect of braking (steering and suspension (road holding, handling, comfort and noise)) and keeping maintained and if required adjusted if not self-adjusting.

Have a look in Classic Skoda Guides. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/178-classic-skoda-guides/

Classic Škoda Projects. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/206-classic-skoda-projects/

And perhaps(?) in Performance & Tuning Upgrades. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/

For photo if you hold your camera/phone in landscape generally it gets more info into the picture (unless it is a portrait or vertical shot like tyre tread, person/people standing, lamppost, flagpole, etc.). Unless you wanted to included the lamppost light to show how bright your front light bar is.

HTH.

Thank you very much, the photo is just for the model of the car I am talking about.

Hi @DemoVrh: As nta16 says above, better tyres may give you an immediate improvement through either a wider contact patch, better sidewall stability or just a stickier rubber compound.

You don't say why you want to change to disc brakes, what problem you are really trying to solve? I assume your car is driving on normal roads. The motorsport homologation paper A-5193 for the Skoda 120LS shows you all the authorised upgrades for building a 120 factory specification rally car in 1984. This car retains drum brakes at the rear and the use of good brake material combined with the front discs was good enough for motorsport where brakes are used much harder. Unless you want to build a Group B 130, it is cheaper and easier to check your tyres, service the rear shoes and maybe change the shoe material. You may find they are out of adjustment and never been doing any work.

Good luck.

2 hours ago, Moorland said:

As nta16 says above, better tyres may give you an immediate improvement through either a wider contact patch, better sidewall stability or just a stickier rubber compound.

Swapping from worn, aged tyres that will possibly have gone hard on the tread and sidewalls to new tyres that are more flexible on tread and sidewall with bring improvement to braking, steering, suspension, road holding, handling, noise and comfort.

This of course is if the old tyres are worn and gone hard and the replacement tyres are of good quality, and the tyres are all at correct pressures and suspension in reasonable condition and function. New tyres "bedded-in".

Wider contact patch doesn't necessarily mean more grip and though the contact patch might be wider it could also be shorter so no real difference to the actual area of contact. There used to be a marvellous website about tyres explaining well lots of information but unfortunately he went commercial and had to remove a lot of the information. Pages my turn up on archive sites, Tyre Bible (not the religious one). Don't get hooked on willy-waving, and measuring, car stuff do the research instead as it'll save you wasting time and money (been there, got the t-shirt had it fall to pieces . . .).

IIRC the car was on 165/13 (ratios were 80 then unless low profile which would be 70!) if the OP was in England I'd strongly suggest buying Blockley, same tyre would be great for road use and many sports use.

I put my completely factory standard (year or so old at the time) 130 LS on 185/70/13, so wider (and low-profile!) IIRC Goodyear Eagle (F1) and they made the handling great - but I couldn't take the wear with the mileage type I was doing at the time. When I changed the full set the tyre-fitter advised me to take it easier on the new (harder-wearing) tyres particularly until they were bedded in. What a difference in tyres, I took his advice.

Had the Eagles been available in 165/80/13 the handling might have been better still (depending on driving techniques and preferences, the weight of the rear engine with rear wheel drive can be an acquired taste).

Good advice. Key thing to remember is that tyres are cheaper than bodywork!

It's a fair warning about over-tyre-ing a car too. It's 25 years since I had an Estelle but you want it to remain nimble so going too wide and low profile is inappropriate, same as anything. I made the assumption the OP would stay on standard width wheels as he didn't state otherwise.

Blockley make some good stuff, normally well reviewed.

18 hours ago, Moorland said:

Hi @DemoVrh: As nta16 says above, better tyres may give you an immediate improvement through either a wider contact patch, better sidewall stability or just a stickier rubber compound.

You don't say why you want to change to disc brakes, what problem you are really trying to solve? I assume your car is driving on normal roads. The motorsport homologation paper A-5193 for the Skoda 120LS shows you all the authorised upgrades for building a 120 factory specification rally car in 1984. This car retains drum brakes at the rear and the use of good brake material combined with the front discs was good enough for motorsport where brakes are used much harder. Unless you want to build a Group B 130, it is cheaper and easier to check your tyres, service the rear shoes and maybe change the shoe material. You may find they are out of adjustment and never been doing any work.

Good luck.

The reason I want to upgrade the rear breaks is that I have a Felicia 1.3 MPI 50kw engine and probably will upgrade it. So I wanted to change drums to disc, but if they used drums in rally probably it's a good drum brakes

12 hours ago, Moorland said:

Key thing to remember is that tyres are cheaper than bodywork!

Let alone the bodywork of driver(s), passenger(s) and other road users or those nearby.

I can understand the want for more power, though sometimes it's just figures on paper for egos but no matter how much power there is sometimes you might want more but much, much more often only a fraction or small fraction of the power available is needed or can be used, on the road at least. There's a joy in having something low power and actually driving it, some used to very power cars know/knew this.

On 16/05/2025 at 09:47, nta16 said:

There's a joy in having something low power and actually driving it, some used to very power cars know/knew this.

James Hunt and his Austin A35 van

On 16/05/2025 at 05:16, DemoVrh said:

The reason I want to upgrade the rear breaks is that I have a Felicia 1.3 MPI 50kw engine and probably will upgrade it. So I wanted to change drums to disc, but if they used drums in rally probably it's a good drum brakes

Ok, sounds interesting. 50kw is 67bhp so a reasonable amount of power but nothing extreme. Your first priority should be to make sure the front brakes are good as they do most of the work. Get the best pad material you can, but for road use don't be tempted with racing pads or anything that needs warming up. See how you get on and if you develop the car further for more power you can review again.