Hi, I've made a short in my car driver window buttons about a month ago. Ive tried to look up the bcm then I found out that it is fine. Then found car wiring diagrams and saw that the fuse is lined up to the driver door module which is combined with the window motor.

I have in my house another fabia mk2 car and decide to take the good window motor+module for the good car into the bad car, then i noticed that the driver buttons receive 12v for a few seconds before going back to 0v (there is a direct corolation between how long you wait before reconnecting to how many second the window button get 12v.

I tested the module in the good car and there it has constant 12v no matter what.

Do i need to code the module or mayb i didn't diagnose the correct problem.

What year is the car? Mk2 Fabia had at least three different types of window motor depending on year.

None of them can be coded.

The window switches work by shorting the inputs of the module to earth, mostly via resistors, but directly in one position, so I can't see how you would do damage.

Was/is the one you've swapped in identical in appearance and part number?

What is or isn't currently working?

My fabia is 2009, 1.6l sport edition

My moms fabia (the one with the good motor) is a 2008 fabia 1.6L diesel combi.

Bad window motor part number: 440881d0

0906222235381

Module number + microcontroller

Ill have to wait for suterday until ill be able to check the good window motor part number

3 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

What year is the car? Mk2 Fabia had at least three different types of window motor depending on year.

None of them can be coded.

The window switches work by shorting the inputs of the module to earth, mostly via resistors, but directly in one position, so I can't see how you would do damage.

Was/is the one you've swapped in identical in appearance and part number?

What is or isn't currently working?

New. To the forum. I had replied to you and forgot to quote

Sorry, I was working on one of our cars.

I meant the part number on the outside of the motor, 6Q1959801F, I think for those two cars?

Edited 5 June, 20251 yr by Breezy_Pete

1 hour ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Sorry, I was working on one of our cars.

I meant the part number on the outside of the motor, 6Q1959801F, I think for those two cars?

Of its 6q2 959 802 G

I see, you are in a country where you drive on the right hand side of the road.

So 6Q2... instead of 6Q1...

Both motors same part number?

Apparently the wierd behiviur of having 12v for a few seconds then turn is apearing with the original window motor + module as well. Im kind of getting lost here tbh

Have you checked for broken wires in the door loom, under the rubber cover in the door hinge area?

"only" 1 broken cable there and if i remember right its related to the ir sensor. But ill check again rn and update in a few minutes.

I also checked all window switch cables for contentiuty and they all behave like you'd expect.

Just checked rn and when you roll the windows up/down via the key the 12v goes to the cables and windows works fines

The wire that might be broken supplies an ignition switched 12V to a thin black/blue wire going to the motor connector.

When you work them by the key, this ignition switched 12V isn't required.

The broken cable is purple + white. There is a cable like this at the ir sensor and the motor module but the one at the module lead to the driver switch. Ill try to check where the broken cable lead but it will take a while.

Regarding the black and white cable i checked and there is contentiuty between driver door module and driver window switch but i didnt checked the other motors

Repair all broken wires and check from 28-way connector at hinges to window motor connector, referring to circuit diagram.

Im pretty sure that the broken wire was cut well before the window switch short acured, to fix that will take a ton of time so i wont do it rn but maybe tomorrow.

Ill check all cable from hinge to motor and update in 5-10 minutes

Check fuse #11, which supplies that ignition switched 12V to wake the motor.

Fuse 11 in my car is the mirors motor fuse, are you talking about other set of fuses? I already checked all fuses in my car and they all have contentiuty between both terminals.

2 minutes ago, keshet33 said:

1 minute ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Check fuse #11, which supplies that ignition switched 12V to wake the motor.

Fuse 11 in my car is mirror motors

10 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Repair all broken wires and check from 28-way connector at hinges to window motor connector, referring to circuit diagram.

Could you send me the diagrams/good site to vew them? I am using superetka and it does not work all the time cor me

53 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Repair all broken wires and check from 28-way connector at hinges to window motor connector, referring to circuit diagram.

All relevant cables to 28 pins connector are fine

Did not found the lin pin at the bcm (j519) but i found it at 28 pin. Tomorrow/later Tonight ill check again when i have day light.

I attatched the schematics i found for driver window wiring

That's the next generation wiring diagram, from March 2010. No LIN connection to BCM on previous one, like yours, or the one before. So BCM isn't relevant.

Fuse 11 checked? That wire isn't on your diagrams.

Will add correct diagram shortly.

This should match what you have. You can see that fuse 11 does matter here.

2 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

This should match what you have. You can see that fuse 11 does matter here.

Thanks alot for the new and correct diagrams, i have just checked fuse 11 and unfortunately it is fine and no problem there

Measure at the connector for the motor with ignition switched on, to be sure that 12V is actually getting to that pin of the connector where the black/blue wire goes. You said you had checked/tested all the wires from motor to 28-way, but that was with incorrect circuit info.

2 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Measure at the connector for the motor with ignition switched on, to be sure that 12V is actually getting to that pin of the connector where the black/blue wire goes. You said you had checked/tested all the wires from motor to 28-way, but that was with incorrect circuit info

Magnificent news!!!! Ive just decided to replace all of the relevant fuses just to get it out of the system so i would not need to check the fuses for the 4th time and aperently one of the fuses was the problem!!

Now i kind of feels stupid because i spent a literal week diagnosing the problem and somehow i missed a simple fuse problem even though i check all fuses 2 or 3 times.

Thanks a lot for the help, i now know the price of using free diagrams.

You know what type of greece i need to put in the window motor after i removed it previously?

Also could you recommend me a good vag diagram aplication/site that is cost friendly with diy people like me?

1 minute ago, keshet33 said:

Magnificent news!!!! Ive just decided to replace all of the relevant fuses just to get it out of the system so i would not need to check the fuses for the 4th time and aperently one of the fuses was the problem!!

Now i kind of feels stupid because i spent a literal week diagnosing the problem and somehow i missed a simple fuse problem even though i check all fuses 2 or 3 times.

Thanks a lot for the help, i now know the price of using free diagrams.

You know what type of greece i need to put in the window motor after i removed it previously?

Also could you recommend me a good vag diagram aplication/site that is cost friendly with diy people like me?

Also ive just wanted to thank you! I saw on google threads that 4 yo and maybe older and i saw how much you help people. Thank you so much!

I'm not sure what the grease type is that's inside them, let me know if you find out, please.

erWin Skoda is very good value. You can buy 1 hour of access which includes ability to download pdfs of all kinds of info. 7 Euro plus tax.

Once you have registered, logged in and paid the "flat rate", go to individual vehicle info tab.