after just buying a mk1 fabia 1.2 petrol 2007 for my son tk do her up we have a list of things wrong with her so hope to get some help.

listed below is some of the issues facing. the car was bought for pennies and spares or repairs so please dont judge.lol

water temp

only partially working key

elgine and ecu extreamly hot.

power steering leak (apparently)

no brakes or handbrake.

obd2 issues with car radio

this is only a few so far.

My main question i want to ask first and i would say most important.

the engine starts on first turn of the key but withing 2 to 3 mins the temp goes to 90 degrees and sits there. i can have it running for an hr and it wont budge. even putting the inside fans on full hot air.

diagnostic shows temp at 83 degrees and slowly goes down to 72 with heaters on.

any idea what would cause this, thermostat, temp sensor, water pump?

as i said it is a car to do up, i dont want to throw money at it especially if there is a chance the steering rack may need replaced.

it is the 1.2 BME 3 cylinder engine.

Thanks

9 hours ago, firejinx said:

the engine starts on first turn of the key but withing 2 to 3 mins the temp goes to 90 degrees and sits there. i can have it running for an hr and it wont budge. even putting the inside fans on full hot air.

diagnostic shows temp at 83 degrees and slowly goes down to 72 with heaters on.

any idea what would cause this, thermostat, temp sensor, water pump?

When the actual water temperature goes over 50C, the gauge temperature is programmed to go to 88C and sit there until the actual temperature goes back below 50 or over 105.

39 minutes ago, Paws4Thot said:

When the actual water temperature goes over 50C, the gauge temperature is programmed to go to 88C and sit there until the actual temperature goes back below 50 or over 105.

Thanks for your reply.

Does the car really heat up to 90 withing 2 to 3 mins? It takes my land rover at least 15-20 mins just to get to 70 and my vauxhall 40mins to get to 80ish. That is driving them not just idle which takes longer .

The gauge shows approx 90degrees. According to the diagnostic the temp went to around 103ish before I turned it off tonight.

Like my other cars I would have thought the 1st stage fan would have kicked in around 95-98 the the 2nd stage at 100+ something.

I may be well wrong with this as it's the first Skoda we have had and are used to other cars

I also note that the engine or should I say the plastic cover/air filter is red hot to touch as well as the ECU on the firewall.

Is this normal.?

Thanks

Scrap it, do yourself a favour.

Just now, Breezy_Pete said:

Scrap it, do yourself a favour.

Lol personally I wouldn't have really bought it but my son is doing his mechanics in collage which he has been working in a MK1 fabia quite a bit.

It was his choice in wanting a fabia as a car to do up for when he passes his driving test. (Only turned 17 in may).

The list of repairs keeps getting bigger and bigger the more I look at it.

Radio not working in car (fuses all ok) works on a bench test.

OBD2 does not work when radio is plugged in. Remove it and it works. (Very strange).

Water pump leak.

No brakes what so ever. Discs/pads/drums/shoes and handbrake cable corroded like it's been in the sea for ten yrs.

Power steering pump, high pressure pipe or similar leaking oil and notchy steering.

Temp gauge.

Welding in several places.

Every panel needs respraying.

Poss timing chain

No 1 injector needs replaced

Nsr door actuator.

Bullseye chip in drivers field of vision

Suspension all around

4new tyres needed

Only one key/fob which is temperamental at best.

Probably lots more I haven't mentioned

Thankfully I can do the majority of it myself and parts are relatively cheap.

Spread the cost over a year or so and it will be a phoenix rising from the ashes when done.

There must be lots of much better ones to be found.

6 minutes ago, firejinx said:

Lol personally I wouldn't have really bought it but my son is doing his mechanics in collage which he has been working in a MK1 fabia quite a bit.

It was his choice in wanting a fabia as a car to do up for when he passes his driving test. (Only turned 17 in may).

The list of repairs keeps getting bigger and bigger the more I look at it.

Radio not working in car (fuses all ok) works on a bench test.

OBD2 does not work when radio is plugged in. Remove it and it works. (Very strange).

Water pump leak.

No brakes what so ever. Discs/pads/drums/shoes and handbrake cable corroded like it's been in the sea for ten yrs.

Power steering pump, high pressure pipe or similar leaking oil and notchy steering.

Temp gauge.

Welding in several places.

Every panel needs respraying.

Poss timing chain

No 1 injector needs replaced

Nsr door actuator.

Bullseye chip in drivers field of vision

Suspension all around

4new tyres needed

Only one key/fob which is temperamental at best.

Probably lots more I haven't mentioned

Thankfully I can do the majority of it myself and parts are relatively cheap.

Spread the cost over a year or so and it will be a phoenix rising from the ashes when done.

I think @Breezy_Pete is possibly right, this sounds like it just needs almost a full nut and bolt restoration and a lot money.

5 minutes ago, Graham Butcher said:

I think @Breezy_Pete is possibly right, this sounds like it just needs almost a full nut and bolt restoration and a lot money.

You would think correctly lol.

Thankfully the car came with a 2nd hand rack with a guarantee which I have a feeling it don't need. I think it's the high pressure hose £35 or pump has separated from the reservoir. But haven't looked yet as too cold and wet outside.

Welding and body work £30 , I have welder and I can get paint £30 ltr. I can paint the car.

Brakes all-round £90

Door actuator £25

Tyres I can get 2nd hand for the moment £80

Suspension all round £150

Water pump/thermostat and housing £70

Injector fixed £0 for a 🍺

Will need to get a hold of my mates vag-com and make new keys £22 and a 🍺.

Timing chain I will do myself if needed.

All other bits are not really expensive.

It will be a labour of love for him

Oh forgot a exhaust Flexi sleeve as it sounds like a tractor £25.

All in all not too bad I don't think hopefully.

To be fair, aside from the welding and bodywork, if it has good bones then most of the parts can be had from a breakers yard. What is the interior like?

I think the others are missing the point that it was bought specifically as a project car. Equally, I also think they're missing the point that, for a first car, it doesn't have to be perfect. I dare say he will spend the next few years containing the work and modifications - at least until he can get insured on something faster!

I will say that I hope you didn't pay more than a few hundred quid for it - sounds like you did the previous owner a favour 😆

@OccyVRS yes precisely it is a project car.

He does not want all the bells and whistles with it.

The interior of the car is almost mint condition well that is after we washed and dried the seats etc.

The car definitely wasn't looked after.

We paid £150 for it so basically scrap value.

I don't see the jobs that need doing big jobs apart from if I need to do the steering rack as that the subframe off or at least dropped.

Mostly everything else is just a little time needed .

Things like paint can be skipped as not really needed. It's more to fix the shocking repair jobs one of the previous keepers done.

As he is doing his mechanics courses in collage he is getting extra training with doing his own car plus the old school tips and tricks I will teach him.lol

I don't know if that is a good or bad point tbh.

We calculated this morning to get the car up and working and safe with a fresh MOT and insured would cost about £700 not Inc road tax , and about 6-7 month to get there time depending on when we are both free to do it plus weather.

But be warned I may be on here asking a few questions. 🤣

I misunderstood, a bit. Didn't realise you were looking for a mk1 with the most possible issues. 😆

Check chain timing and radiator fan function as priorities, I suggest. Does/did it have A/C?

I certainly wouldn't expect engine cover or ECU to be particularly hot, in normal working.

Lol I didn't expect to have that many issues either to be honest.

Yes the engine cover and ECU are burning to the touch just after 5-10 mins running. That is a concern!!!

I have no 1 injector away just now getting sorted so that will be back later today when I can get the car running again.

I have just ordered a new water pump and thermostat and housing with the temp sensor.

I'm going to flush the system out before I fit any new parts.

The timing chain sounds ok but I will need to open it up and check for play or stretching then replace if needed.

The car starts first turn of the key which is amazing considering after charging the dead battery and it sitting and not being used. for almost 9 momth

The car does have AC which amazingly works also.

We are in no rush to get it in the road yet but if I can sort the bigger problems first then that will be a relief for doing the rest of the car.

With A/C it's easy to check rad fan(s). Switch it on and demand coldest air with bonnet open and expect to see fan action almost immediately (ambient temp dependent) with fan at low speed.

If it/they come on and sound fast and furious that's probably full speed, indicating that low speed has failed. If no fan action at all check fuses.

Chain timing check can be done without opening timing cover, fortunately, 'cos that's not an easy job at all.

Put no.1 cylinder at TDC by poking something down plug hole, then remove two small covers from gearbox end of cam cover. Should see slot in ends of cams that are parallel to each other (always) and parallel to HG (at TDC).

How many miles has it done?

Edited 10 June10 Jun by Breezy_Pete

Other issues aside, having the ECU that hot might cause some bigger issues.

A wet vac would work wonders on the seats, assuming you haven't done that already.

You mentioned the entire braking system was from a submarine - is that all the rust on the car?

30 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

How many miles has it done?

By the sounds of it, it's more a question of how long it's sat for!

1 hour ago, Breezy_Pete said:

With A/C it's easy to check rad fan(s). Switch it on and demand coldest air with bonnet open and expect to see fan action almost immediately (ambient temp dependent) with fan at low speed.

If it/they come on and sound fast and furious that's probably full speed, indicating that low speed has failed. If no fan action at all check fuses.

Chain timing check can be done without opening timing cover, fortunately, 'cos that's not an easy job at all.

Put no.1 cylinder at TDC by poking something down plug hole, then remove two small covers from gearbox end of cam cover. Should see slot in ends of cams that are parallel to each other (always) and parallel to HG (at TDC).

How many miles has it done?

Thank @Breezy_Pete

1 hour ago, Breezy_Pete said:

With A/C it's easy to check rad fan(s). Switch it on and demand coldest air with bonnet open and expect to see fan action almost immediately (ambient temp dependent) with fan at low speed.

If it/they come on and sound fast and furious that's probably full speed, indicating that low speed has failed. If no fan action at all check fuses.

Chain timing check can be done without opening timing cover, fortunately, 'cos that's not an easy job at all.

Put no.1 cylinder at TDC by poking something down plug hole, then remove two small covers from gearbox end of cam cover. Should see slot in ends of cams that are parallel to each other (always) and parallel to HG (at TDC).

How many miles has it done?

Thanks that's some good information.

I will try tomorrow to do that checks when I get the injector back.

I know so far from having the car run for over an HR that no fans came on. Temp was measured at 103 from diagnostic.

I haven't come across any blown fuses yet while I was searching for the issue with the stereo.

The car has done 129000 miles and no real service history from 2021 onwards so obviously I want to check and repair everything and make it sound and safe.

45 minutes ago, OccyVRS said:

Other issues aside, having the ECU that hot might cause some bigger issues.

A wet vac would work wonders on the seats, assuming you haven't done that already.

You mentioned the entire braking system was from a submarine - is that all the rust on the car?

By the sounds of it, it's more a question of how long it's sat for!

Yeah the car has sat for around 9month without starting or moving. I had to hammer the rear brake drums to free it off.

There is rust on the sills and inner rear wheel arches that need cutting out and welding. Not a big issue as I can do that.

All wheel arches have signs of rust but not looked into them yet to see how much of a repair they need.

My wife did use her small wet and dry vac on the inside and it brought the interior up well good.

I agree the ECU getting that hot is a problem. I have no idea how or why it's getting that hot .

I'm wondering if it's possibly a wiring issue for 2 a few reasons.

1st radio doesn't work in car but does on a bench test. All fused are fine.

2 Iso wiring which looks standard has no power to any contact pins in the plug..

3. When the radio is plugged in and I plug in my diagnostic to the obd2 I get no contact with the cars ECU.

4. Take the radio out and the diagnostic works perfectly fine.

5. At some point a previous owner put aftermarket led sidelight strips. They were not working and partially disconnected as the wires had rusted through.

   So possibly a short or earth issue as diagnostic showed low voltage codes and other electric issues with the steering pump etc

   it's a lot of diagnosing to see what the issues are. Worst case scenario is I buy a new ECU fuse box locks and keys etc.

28 minutes ago, firejinx said:

I haven't come across any blown fuses yet

All the fan-related fuses are above the battery, three in total. Like this, but you won't have 6 and 12, at least:

At 103°C measured with coolant temp sensor you're probably not quite hot enough to trigger full speed fan action based on coolant temperature, as the (dual) thermoswitch is at radiator outlet, so ought to be a fair bit cooler than cylinder head even if fan isn't working.

A/C-mediated fan action is independent of coolant temperature, being controlled by refrigerant pressure instead.

One or two rad fans?

29 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

All the fan-related fuses are above the battery, three in total. Like this, but you won't have 6 and 12, at least:

31 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

All the fan-related fuses are above the battery, three in total. Like this, but you won't have 6 and 12, at least:

At 103°C measured with coolant temp sensor you're probably not quite hot enough to trigger full speed fan action based on coolant temperature, as the (dual) thermoswitch is at radiator outlet, so ought to be a fair bit cooler than cylinder head even if fan isn't working.

A/C-mediated fan action is independent of coolant temperature, being controlled by refrigerant pressure instead.

One or two rad fans?

It is a 1 fan radiator. The radiator which is attached to the fan is fairly new looking. Nice and shiney.

Ok I have my injector back in and she is running now.

I've switched on the AC and set to full cold. Although it could do with a recharge but works still. NO Fan whatsoever comes on regardless of it running for 20 mins.

I checked the expansion bottle and water is recirculating in it .

The top radiator hose is hot but the bottom is cold. I would say either air or a blockage of sludge. Especially with the amount of sludge in the expansion bottle . The water pump is quite noisy also . I have bought all that anyways so waiting to get from Germany. I will then try to flush the system and then fit new parts. I will buy a rad temp sensor also and try to eliminate all I can.

I am going to get under the car later and try test the fan as I'm not sure it is working as the fuses all seem fine.

I've just checked that fuses.

No 6 has a fuse but nothing connected to it.

I then have no 7 to eleven all fine . I will have to check the ratings of the fuses as I'm not quite sure they are whats in the picture.

At 103°C measured with coolant temp sensor you're probably not quite hot enough to trigger full speed fan action based on coolant temperature, as the (dual) thermoswitch is at radiator outlet, so ought to be a fair bit cooler than cylinder head even if fan isn't working.

A/C-mediated fan action is independent of coolant temperature, being controlled by refrigerant pressure instead.

One or two rad fans?

31 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

All the fan-related fuses are above the battery, three in total. Like this, but you won't have 6 and 12, at least:

At 103°C measured with coolant temp sensor you're probably not quite hot enough to trigger full speed fan action based on coolant temperature, as the (dual) thermoswitch is at radiator outlet, so ought to be a fair bit cooler than cylinder head even if fan isn't working.

A/C-mediated fan action is independent of coolant temperature, being controlled by refrigerant pressure instead.

One or two rad fans?

The radiator thermoswitches almost never fail on A/C cars, cos they're only carrying relay coil current of the fan control module's relays, not fan current, so I think that would be wasted cash.

Check for broken wires near to its connector though, and test fan itself via this linking of loom connector:

@firejinx FYI there's also a fuse layout guide which people have found quite helpful.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/294383-the-mki-fabia-fuse-layout-post-updated-with-bulb-types/

On 10/06/2025 at 15:48, Breezy_Pete said:

The radiator thermoswitches almost never fail on A/C cars, cos they're only carrying relay coil current of the fan control module's relays, not fan current, so I think that would be wasted cash.

Check for broken wires near to its connector though, and test fan itself via this linking of loom connector:

On 10/06/2025 at 15:48, Breezy_Pete said:

The radiator thermoswitches almost never fail on A/C cars, cos they're only carrying relay coil current of the fan control module's relays, not fan current, so I think that would be wasted cash.

Check for broken wires near to its connector though, and test fan itself via this linking of loom connector:

I think there maybe some issues further up the wiring loom or a faulty fan. I can't see anything that's broken . I will get the multimeter out later this week and test the loom

I bridged 2 +1 then 3+1 and got nothing with ignition off and on. The fan does spin freely manually tho.

I did see another few issues while checking the switch. The 2 power steering pipes are almost corroded through and the pass front driveshaft is 1. Only held on with 3 bolts at the gearbox and 2 the outer CV joint has all but collapsed and the boot split.

I have spent all afternoon searching for this power steering leak that the last owner said she had. I've checked the complete system and nothing although the pipes will soon burst.

The rack gators are fine and no sign of a leak anywhere.

She said she had to put about a ltr a week into the car and also bought a 2nd hand rack.

All I needed to do was too up about 150ml of power steering fluid and bleed it and it seems to work fine. (Touch wood).

I have a date for the water pump stuff coming 29th June so a little wait there.

I do see it's a fairly new radiator on the car also.

Thankfully it's all minor stuff to me and a good verity of repairs for my son for him to learn on.

On 10/06/2025 at 15:55, Lee01 said:

@firejinx FYI there's also a fuse layout guide which people have found quite helpful.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/294383-the-mki-fabia-fuse-layout-post-updated-with-bulb-types/

Thanks mate.

That's one of the things I looked at right away.

Thankfully all the original books came with the car which is unheard of.

Regular services until about 2021 then I would say just forgotten about . COVID probably didn't help either

Just got the v5 back today with my son being the 8th owner so a bit concerning there as to why so many owners.

From underside, unplug the big 4-way connector from the fan control module (hanging off bracket on nearside chassis leg).

Link smaller contacts of loom connector to test (just) fan's low speed function.

Link wider connections to test high speed.

26 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

From underside, unplug the big 4-way connector from the fan control module (hanging off bracket on nearside chassis leg).

Link smaller contacts of loom connector to test (just) fan's low speed function.

Link wider connections to test high speed.

@Breezy_Pete thanks.

If your referring to the large brick looking thing then I may have found the issue.

It is currently nearly in 2 prices hanging down. Not attached to anything.

It looks like it has had a nasty hit against something.

The car under tray and wheel arch cover are broken quite a bit. So I'm guessing someone has run over something at some point and damaged it.

I will look up later tonight when I get home and get a replacement ordered and also fabricate a bracket as well as one for the ECU on the bulkhead.

I'm trying to juggle work and the car.

We are too busy to get the fabia in to get it welded and painted but it will all get done at some point

4 hours ago, firejinx said:

The car under tray and wheel arch cover are broken quite a bit.

I've got this issue, but it's largely down to the plastic just getting brittle from mileage/heat cycles/old age.

Hope you get to the bottom of things with this wee car, all the best.