It's seems that I'm having some battery woes.

Tried to start the car.. lights on the dash, but car won't turnover. Borrowed my neighbours USB rechargable booster pack and it jumped no problem. Started first time.

Left it running for 20 mins and it started up fine the next morning. Drove to work (20 mins) and at the end of the day needed a jump (cables this time.. again.. right away no problem)

Drove home and next day was fine. Then yesterday... Dead again.. jumped off the new usb booster I bought fine.

Car is a 66 plate, i bought used about 5 or 6 years ago and hasn't had a new battery in my time.

So I'm assuming new battery required?

Now I know next to nothing about it but I am happy to source the battery myself and I'm assuming there will be a video guide out there to fit the battery?.. and I'm assuming by doing so I will probably save myself some money Vs going to Halfords?

My questions are:

1) does this sound a solid plan

2) what battery exact should I buy (assuming online purchase will be cheapest) link and suggested retailer would be amazing (again my knowledge here is next to none)

Ive attached photos of the current installed battery info.

See what it says on https://www.tayna.co.uk/

You should code a new battery to the car. That basically means plugging a suitable OBD device onto the car to tell the BMS (battery monitoring system) the battery has been changed. But if you buy like for like or very similar, like your current is EFB+ and 70AH then it is not so important.

So swap battery as you would on any old car, a few warnings lights you'll see on battery change will clear themselves after a short drive.

First thing is check the voltage with a multimeter. Check the voltage when it's been off for a while, a good battery should be around 12.4-12.6v. If it's low your battery probably is gone but before you replace it check the voltage again with he engine running it should be at 13.8-14.3v, if it's not your alternator is toasty.

To replace the battery get the same spec as you have a 70ah EFB type battery you can upgrade to an AGM battery but it requires a few more steps to install. The battery will need coding to the car so the car knows how to safely charge it. If you go to Halfords and pay for instillation they should code the battery to the car if you don't have the tools.

27 minutes ago, CianKT said:

First thing is check the voltage with a multimeter. Check the voltage when it's been off for a while, a good battery should be around 12.4-12.6v. If it's low your battery probably is gone but before you replace it check the voltage again with he engine running it should be at 13.8-14.3v, if it's not your alternator is toasty.

To replace the battery get the same spec as you have a 70ah EFB type battery you can upgrade to an AGM battery but it requires a few more steps to install. The battery will need coding to the car so the car knows how to safely charge it. If you go to Halfords and pay for instillation they should code the battery to the car if you don't have the tools.

Well I know it is low as the car won't currently start!

Do I need to code if I replace like for like?

What would a good replacement battery be?

33 minutes ago, aubrey said:

See what it says on https://www.tayna.co.uk/

You should code a new battery to the car. That basically means plugging a suitable OBD device onto the car to tell the BMS (battery monitoring system) the battery has been changed. But if you buy like for like or very similar, like your current is EFB+ and 70AH then it is not so important.

So swap battery as you would on any old car, a few warnings lights you'll see on battery change will clear themselves after a short drive.

Essentially should any that come up for my car reg work?

Is there any reason but to go for the cheaper one? Or should I go for Varta or Bocsh?

Just had a go:

Tried to start it.. and nothing. Lights on the dash and a quick clicking.

Checked the voltage with my cheap multimeter: 12.6-12.8v

Attached the USB jumper and it turned over first try.

Checked the voltage when running and it is 15.8 ISH currently.

I have no idea what any of that means.. but with it being 12.8v I would have assumed it would start?

No idea really. I changed mine to a Varta AGM. so I had to code that due to the change of battery type to AGM. I have VCDS.

I'm sure any like for like would do. So EFB+ and 70AH. I don't want to get into brand arguments and does paying more give better value when comparing working life. I'm sure you can go with their recommendation. If not coding then ensuring EFB+ and 70AH is more important for you.

Edited 7 December, 20257 Dec by aubrey

I would change like for like. As you have a stop/start system it’s important to have at least hte same spec. The cheaper batteries most likely won’t support the extra power draw required.

Unless you’re going to replace it in the next couple of years the new batt will very likely last as long as the old one.

Buy once cry once.

4 hours ago, Jetpac said:

Just had a go:

Tried to start it.. and nothing. Lights on the dash and a quick clicking.

Checked the voltage with my cheap multimeter: 12.6-12.8v

Attached the USB jumper and it turned over first try.

Checked the voltage when running and it is 15.8 ISH currently.

I have no idea what any of that means.. but with it being 12.8v I would have assumed it would start?

Try checking the battery voltage while the engine is being cranked-over - should not fall lower than 10 to 10.5 volts.