Hi all.

Cars been making a horrible sound over bumps,mostly noticeable on the passenger side. Also when accelerating i can feel the left side jerk.

Have narrowed the problem down to the sub frame bushing or dog bone collar.

Can someone check the attached video and advise if deffo subframe off job or is there a easier way.

Also does the amount movement look like the problem.

I’m fairly certain that can be removed, if I recall @JR RS replaced his with an aftermarket one, like powerflex etc, but he will know more

As @Danoid indicated, that bit of the dogbone mount is meant to move like that with the engine.

That won't b the cause of the horrible sounds.

U can get a dogbone insert that will firm up the movement, but as I said - it won't b the culprit.

@Danoid - I didn't replace mine, but I got a 034 Motorsport aluminium lower insert which sits around the existing bushing.

Edited 6 May6 May by JR RS

Hi all,

Just an update.

So it was definitely the cause of my issue. I ordered a cheapy bush removal tool and managed to get the old bushing out. The top part was ripped and I manged to rip the whole rubber apart by hand.

Now this is where my battle has began.

Trued putting the new bushing in using the tool. Failed miserably and after 2 hours of struggling,managed to crack the new mount casing. Upon further research,realised I had the wrong part.it was off by one letter. So ordered the new updated bushing. That came today but still same problem. Ive ordered a more expensive tool but it still isnt the right tool,its for the old aluminium subframe.

I am at my wits ends. Please cam anyone link me to the right tool. I cant justify paying £700 for the laser 9028 tool that im being told i need.

Sorry for the long winded text,spent over a week with the car on ramps unable to move

My Indy said that to change the mount itself is a subframe off job to press it out and the new one in. I don't know whether they choose to and it can be done in situ though. Again that was when looking at dogbone mount inserts.

And yes the part numberings are a bast. Everyone bangs on about 2 different versions, when there are technically 4 (albeit 2 look identical) so 3 different designs. I found out the hard way that I have the version that doesn't get mentioned at all. Either way, I assumed that it was all to do with the internal design and not the size/shape of the casing, seeing as they didn't appear to be engine or drivetrain specific that I could see - practically random. Even tuners just tell you to look under the car rather than advise on part number or model.

For me, cracking the casing feels potentially more like technique; in that case, it would be more about Youtube and finding how-to guides with all the tricks and tips being narrated.

This is what I found; everyone bangs on about A and F, I had L. B looks just like F from the underside I think so it might be different above...or it could be different spec rubber perhaps to be tuned to the engine vibration (ie diesel v petrol etc) - check your part number to engine code to make sure you have the right one:

Dogbone Mount Part Numbers

Hi.

So after spending another 3 hours today trying to fit it in,I gave up. Out of curiosity I compared it with the genuine one that came out and it seems the mylee one i ordered from auto doc is a few mm bigger then the original one. So ive now ordered the genuine one from TPS for £116 which will arrive on Thursday.

Lets see how this one goes. Turning into a proper nightmare.

Only place that does the correct fitting tool is laser 9082 but its cost £650. That's just too much

3 hours ago, travs said:

This is what I found; everyone bangs on about A and F, I had L. B looks just like F from the underside I think so it might be different above...or it could be different spec rubber perhaps to be tuned to the engine vibration (ie diesel v petrol etc) - check your part number to engine code to make sure you have the right one:

Dogbone Mount Part Numbers

So the first time I got the A revision from ebay. Febi make.

Second time I got the F revision from autodoc mylee make.

Both are wrong,ive got the CRLB engine so should have got B revision,but chat gpt told me F is the updated revised version.

Whay a load of malarkey.

Hope the genuine ones turn out to be the right ones

Update

So the new genuine part came,and ut was the f revision. Measured jt with the meyle one and they are both identical. So either the f revision is the right part or i need the b revision.

Spent another 4 hours trying to fit it in,and snapped the top bushing. Out of pure frustration, I just put everything back together again,the best I could and have now parked the car up.

Its making a vibration noise, but thays probably because I havnt done a proper job.

Just going to give to a mechanic and let them sort it out.

Sorry to read it was unsuccessful. Fingers crossed the garage sorts it all out for you!

Sorry to read this now.

My neighbour - who is an indy, a very pedantic guy which suits perfectly for precision job has recently told me of a "creaking saga" on his brother in law Tiguan ... and it was this bush, which he told me is made of two parts, one lower, easily accessible, and one upper, accessible only when you drop the subframe.

He took it in as a family favor - classic - thinking it was an easy up to an hour job ... 😁

He spent most of the day with it, had to drop the subframe, had two bushes returned as they were not the right ones, the broke another one, and at the end he got borrowed from another indy service the "official" VW tool for it, which both guys agreed it works because - I quote - is the only one that has the precise matching of both upper and lower bushes, that had a notch that much precisely align otherwise the entire assy does not fit back in the subframe.

I have not seen it, but it makes sense, for as much that makes sense another folly from VAG group ....

In the light of the above, had I seen this before I would have advised to leave this job for the service, there is no shame in not being able to do everything yourself ... if you can borrow or rent the tool, and obviously have a press and facilities to drop the subframe, yeah it is something that can be attempted ... but there is a lot to take apart and put back together ...