As above.. i still have this problem but its getting worse and much more annoying

The car is now very much a PITA to drive the inside lanes of motorways because it trys its hardest to follow the tracks left by HGVs.. the handling is "fidgety" in general, and the steering feels very vauge and light in the straight ahead position.. making it alot more effort to drive on motorways due to constant steering corrections needed.. on bumpy roads when trying to go straight the car gets pulled and bounced off-target resulting in more steering input to correct

Also my car still steers to the left... this has been the case for about 2 years now. much worse under accelleration ( i noticed that at accellerating at high speeds i noticed i had to turn the wheel RIGHT about 10deg to keep the car straight.

when the car wheelspins, it dives to the left too..

it has some serious Left-fetish

My car has eibach springs and dampers (been on the car for 60k) has had new cupra wishbone bushes two months ago has powerflex wishbone front bushes for about 8 months, and the 4WA done 2 months ago showed nothing out the ordinary except ive got 1deg of negative camber on the left front... but thats been like that ever since i got the suspension fitted (2.5 year ago)

can anyone suggest anything.. or reccomend a decent place in the NW or even the UK that can honestly fix it without ripping me off? my local skud dealer wants to replace the entire front suspension inc which is unacceptable.. paying over a grand for a car thats worth less than five??

Someone help me :(

Mine used to do this a bit but this was after fitting suspension parts, I got it 4WAd and that sorted it, although the car has always enjoyed the tracks left by lorries, not a lot you can do about that I reckon :(

I've found the same problems since mine was lowered, also the bigger the wheels (lower profile tyres) the worse it gets, also when I was down your way, I couldn't beleive the tracks in most roads caused by the hot summer and HGV's you can actually see them for miles, my car was all over the place on them. BTW it was even worse on the M5 & M4.

Have you tried a second place for 4 wheel allignment just in case the first wasn't spot on.

Next suggestion is with your all new stiffer front wishbones etc is to put the weight up on the steering and get someone to check your steering sensor over.

Put the standard suspension back on

My local dealer uses Welcome

After putting my standard stuff back on I found the car was less prone to "follow the road"

Have you got ESP Colin? If so you have to reset the straight ahead on the steering with Vagcom if you have any suspension work done.

Had the same thing on my Octy vRS with Eibach springs, but they turned out to be the wrong poundage for the car, so that was sorted with KW3's.

Worth a check ? You might also have a strut or shock going weak and needing replacement.

The pull to the left is probably just torque steer, which is always there a bit, even with a standard car, but is made a lot worse with a tuned engine.

Good point about the ESP, I must get mine 4WA'd and ESP reset after I fit those Koni FSDs

My local dealer uses Welcome

Do you know how much they charge?

Steve

My dealer charges around £50 for a wheelalignment check. Not sure it they get a discount.

Hi Col

The wheel alighnment can be easily knocked out by the potholes in the roads

So a geo check I would have thought could be the way to go

Worth getting it checked as you can end up eating front tyres on the outer or inner edge too

The tracking will make it pull to the left and you can feel it snatch the steering when you go over the white lines too

Good luck mate

Sarah

A full geommetry check by a specialist is whats needed here Colin. Get the yellow pages out, I'm not talking about simple 4 wheel alignment.

I'm sure its something you regular check and you have already thought of it but are the tyre pressure all even and ok? Only saying as last weekend in my rush I mucked up the pressures (34 one side and 40 the other I blame a broken air gauge that I used). The car was a real pig to keep in a straight line.

To be fair on lower profile tyres and lowered suspension I do find the car gets stuck in the ruts alot easier than it used to.

This was done at awesome after i had new bushes fitted... bout 2 months ago

Ah, well something is worn out then!!! Damper coming to the end of its life perhaps?

Isn't the left camber outside spec?! :confused: Would that cause what you're seeing as it's quite different to the right camber - shouldn't they be as close to equal as possible?

Chris

It'll be all the weight on the right hand side;)

Isn't the left camber outside spec?! :confused: Would that cause what you're seeing as it's quite different to the right camber - shouldn't they be as close to equal as possible?

Chris

I'd say the damper's knackered. A friend of mine had a strange thing with his Volvo S40. Throw it round a right hand bed and afterwards the car would want to go left. Garage change a few things without any joy. In the end he replaced the damper/springs. It was fine after that.

If it helps - I remember someone posting that on changing his tryes (from Dunlop, I think) the car then ran true.

All the time you've had this trouble have you been on the same set of tyres ?

+ I believe there is a left camber on most roads to allow for water drainage.

I'd say the damper's knackered. A friend of mine had a strange thing with his Volvo S40. Throw it round a right hand bed and afterwards the car would want to go left. Garage change a few things without any joy. In the end he replaced the damper/springs. It was fine after that.

Hmm.. ive no idea what the life of eibach dampers are suppost to be..

shouldnt that get checked at a service?

I would only think they would check for leaks and if their was any excesive bouncing maybe :confused:

I know its an expensive thing to do (I've paid to have it done twice, And did it myself twice ) But if

Usually you can quite easily tell if a damper / spring is away during the initial part of hard braking it will initially dive and try to steer one way then sort itself out.

Hmmm

I keep meaning to jack the front of the car up to check ball joints/track rods etc.. but have yet to have a dry day since november

The bounce test doesnt really work with the hard eibach springs..

maybe someone else should have a drive first to make sure im not just going mad.. any volunteers faboka?

If it helps - I remember someone posting that on changing his tryes (from Dunlop, I think) the car then ran true.

All the time you've had this trouble have you been on the same set of tyres ?

+ I believe there is a left camber on most roads to allow for water drainage.

my car started pulling to the left when i fitted Dunlops , was ok on original Michs

Neo_VR , the camber can be adjusted by means of moving the alloy wishbone console , just undo all the bolts and if you can push it in towards the subframe then secure the bolts (the bolts should be replaced really)

moving it in at the bottom will reduce the excess negative camber on the L/H/S , this may not fix it though but is worth a try

is there any uneven wear on the front tyres ?

have you tried swopping tyres over Front to rear and side to side etc ? just to see if it makes any difference to the pull

Colin, this sounds like driver error...

The 'excessive' camber on the left hand side would actually work against a pull to the nearside anyhow. Its usually how they are set up to stop drainage camber effecting the ride.

I would say IMHO get it booked in at APS for them to have a look at. Its a bit of a trek but they are really good at wheel alignment and identifying suspension faults due to thier motorsport background.