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Fabia vRS BLT Engine Hesitation.


VRStu

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First of all, I must say hello to all, hehe. I am a Spanish guy, and my english is so bad, so sorry for it ;)

I own a Skoda Octavia II 1.9Trend with some extras (In Spain, the 1.9Tdi 105PS Elegance is not avaiable). The engine code is BXE, and it has the famous stutter at 2000rpm when I touch softly the pedal. I checked that turning off EGR valve, makes my car go smoother, and the stutter just go away. No stutter when it's off, but the engine light in the dashboard turns on in about 30 miles... I can delete the DTC error with vag-com.

My dealer told me that they don't know how to solve it. They flashed my car with a new ECU and the stutters are still there.

Would the gasket solve my problem too in my 1.9Tdi BXE engine? I have the same problem as you. I think that the gasket will fit perfectly in my EGR, just after the EGR cooler. It's very accesible and easy to put it there.

Thanks in advance for your answers, and sorry if you hardly undestand me, hehe.

Regards

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I have just ordered the P/N 028 131 547 B. It costs about 3€. My skoda dealer told me that this P/N doesn't exist in their database, so I called a Volkswagen dealer, and they have got it in stock. I'm going to take it the day past tomorrow.

Hope to solve it ASAP, because in about 15 days, I was going to take the EGR valve changed.

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Hey mates! My first post in the forum! Yeeii... :D

I own a 2007 vRS with the BLT engine. I also had the stutter and decided to go to the dealer (I'm from Bulgaria) and sort the things out.

I told them about it. They didn't knew much. Said nobody complaint about it before me. Which is strange according to me, because we got a lot of RS Fabias here. Anyway I showed them. They said they would contact Skoda in the Chech Republic. Two days after that they called me with a solution from Skoda. The interesting is that the solution was through the software, not hardware. They changed the value for the EGR valve. Actually made less gases come to the EGR for recirculation. Now I'm a dirty polluter of the nature. The new value is 33200. The old one was 32768. Now I am testing for a week and must say that the stutter is almost gone. I can feel it really rarely and it's very weak. If I didn't knew there was such a thing I would probably never pay attention to it. Now the engine is working smoothly and has the torque and power more evenly distributed over the whole RPM range.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just to update (and welcome Fran and Karaibrahim to the site :wave: )

I've done another 400 odd miles since resetting the emissions light (haven't been doing many miles recently) and its been absolutely fine. No warning lights, and smooth throughout the revs. Maybe the ECU was confused when the exhaust gas was reduced quite rapidly, not sure.

The mpg has reduced to 43 whereas normally I get 46/7, but I haven't done any long journeys and its been a bit cooler recently. I'll continue to check and post back.

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I have one of the Fabia VRs Special Editions that was suffering the BLT Hesitation, so I swapped to the 9mm gasket - at the same time as fitting a "green" air filter. BLT was sorted and the thing really takes off.

I ran the car for approx 400 miles - then the dreaded light came on.

Scratched head a bit and removed air filter and gasket - from car not head. Noticed gasket was quite sooty though - replaced with originals.

Light reset OK.

Ran the car for 100 miles - no problem.

Put 9mm gasket back in and ran with standard air filter for 1000 miles, all was OK.

Put "green" air filter in and ran for 2000 miles - all OK.

Filled up with Tesco fuel rather than Shell/BP and the light came on within 30 miles.

I think the problem may lie with cheaper fuels, they tend to have more sulpher in them and cause more smoke.

Anyone else noticed this?? :confused:

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Quick update from me too:

the stutter is almost completely gone. I can barely notice something at all. Might be all on psychological base :rofl:. Something else though - I think my vRS has a slightly higher fuel consumption now.

How are your fixes on fuel? Anybody with the 9mm gasket noticed thirstier car after the fix (besides *tim*)? And what about the smoke?

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I have one of the Fabia VRs Special Editions that was suffering the BLT Hesitation, so I swapped to the 9mm gasket - at the same time as fitting a "green" air filter. BLT was sorted and the thing really takes off.

I ran the car for approx 400 miles - then the dreaded light came on.

Scratched head a bit and removed air filter and gasket - from car not head. Noticed gasket was quite sooty though - replaced with originals.

Light reset OK.

Ran the car for 100 miles - no problem.

Put 9mm gasket back in and ran with standard air filter for 1000 miles, all was OK.

Put "green" air filter in and ran for 2000 miles - all OK.

Filled up with Tesco fuel rather than Shell/BP and the light came on within 30 miles.

I think the problem may lie with cheaper fuels, they tend to have more sulpher in them and cause more smoke.

Anyone else noticed this?? :confused:

Yes a friend of mine had exactly this problem about 10 miles after filling up with cheap fuel from a large supermarket.

Back to 25mm for a while and then back to 9mm and no probs on "decent" fuel for the past few k miles :thumbup:

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Yes a friend of mine had exactly this problem about 10 miles after filling up with cheap fuel from a large supermarket.

Back to 25mm for a while and then back to 9mm and no probs on "decent" fuel for the past few k miles :thumbup:

Kind of funny this should crop up. Been running 9mm now for 20,000 miles (no EML) always filled up at Morrisons. Got caught short of fuel today and popped in

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've also suffered with the engine management warning light coming on, on a 2007 VRS, but only after having driven over 4,000 miles with the gasket fitted without any problems. It happened 3 times over a period of 3 weeks, switching itself off after about 24 hours before re occurring a couple of days later.

As some cars seem to suffer immediately, others never, and some intermittently it might suggest that the 9mm gasket is borderline for EGR volumes. (The 19568 error code).

One theory that my local garage suggested was the change in air density due to the recent cold weather might have caused enough of a variation to triger the light.

Having thought about the problem, I'm trying the 9mm gasket drilled out to 10mm. I've run this for 2 weeks now without any problems, so this may be a solution if your car is affected. I don't seem to loose any significant ammount of the benefits of the 9mm gasket. However, I didn't really have a stutter, but the on/off throttle response is much better.

17785.attach

I included a small table where I've calculated the area of the hole in the gasket. 10mm is 23% bigger than 9mm. Increasing the size can obviously reduces the benefits of having the 9mm hole, but should be much better than the 160% bigger hole that a 14.5mm gasket provides. It may be the case that as each car is slightly different, so the optimum solution requires a bit of an experiment.

It would be interesting to hear any comments, and the results if anyone else who suffers with engine light problems tries this. For instance does 9.5mm cure the problem.

One other thing I noticed. After 4,000+ miles the 9mm gasket was quite sooty on both sides. Was this enough to slightly reduce the 9mm hole size. If the car is sensitive you never know

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  • 2 weeks later...
The mpg has reduced to 43 whereas normally I get 46/7, but I haven't done any long journeys and its been a bit cooler recently. I'll continue to check and post back.

Since the topic is back to the top.

MPG is back to 46/47, which is what it always has been. It was just that one tankful where it dipped to 43. So all's well that ends well :thumbup:

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I've been 9mmd for a good few hundred miles now with any warning lights whatsoever. I usually use Shell fuels but think I may have accidentally put tesco stuff in at one point without problems.

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AFAIK, a remap will turn the egr valve down, so there will be less gasses going through it anyway. I'd imagine though that without a fully cured 9mm mod, the stutter may show it's ugly face from time to time in the right conditions.

I have to say though, the 9mm fix does produce excellent results as many here testify, and i can definately say that the 9mm fix with a remap is definately the way to go. Very smooth indeed. :thumbup:

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AFAIK, a remap will turn the egr valve down, so there will be less gasses going through it anyway. I'd imagine though that without a fully cured 9mm mod, the stutter may show it's ugly face from time to time in the right conditions.

I have to say though, the 9mm fix does produce excellent results as many here testify, and i can definately say that the 9mm fix with a remap is definately the way to go. Very smooth indeed. :thumbup:

I would love to use the 9mm - I even have the part - I just can get turn the screws to replace it!!!

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Fix now done on my PD100. 5 min job and drives like a different car (in a good way) Easier to drive smoothly now and MUCH better economy due to the fact that I can hold my foot still on the throttle to maintain a constant speed.

This car is the first I have owned with fly by wire throttle and I thought it was absolutely rubbish.

Now I know it was so difficult to drive smooth because of the lack of oxygen in the combustion chambers.

You try climbing a hill with your lungs full of carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide etc!!!

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I recently changed my Fabia SDI for a Dec. 2005 TDI and Ive noticed the hesitation at around 1800rpm. I'm wondering if I should ask the dealer to do the 14mm modification or just get an independent garage to do the 9mm one. I'm concerned in case the 9mm one might do some damage in the longer run, and also I dont fancy going around with the engine management warning light on

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Hi,

I ran the 9mm for around 10k no problems then around the same time as others on this thread (just as the weather got cold) I had the emissions warning light come on. Put the 22mm back in light went off. Decided to drill out the 9mm to 10mm, have been running this for 2k no problems at all. Car feels exactly the same as running the 9mm the only difference being no warning light!

I found removing the big black air hose which runs over the egr pipe helps to access the bolts. I also tied a bit of wire around the allen key and my wrist after I lost the first one in the engine bay. You just need to crack open the bolts with the alen key then carefully use your fingers to do the rest.

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