n 75

[eNcode]

how healthy is n75 j for car that s not remaped

[martziniuk]

I wouldn't bother, if it ain't broke don't fix it. I got mine because i had issues.

Some octys like em some don't the only way to find out is to try it.

[eNcode]

i do not have problems with it but i see here that many members put it on car so i ask

[martziniuk]

I do not think there are many members on this forum with the J valve.

The J valve and also the ecs race n75 valve can be used to try to smooth out the turbo boost after remap if it is erratic.

[GarryC]

Hello, this is where i can potentially look stupid but here goes:

Whats the difference between the N75 valve and N75J Valve. My car has recently developed a "Flutter" of the boost when gently accelerating and sometimes at constant throttle, a bit like im gently prodding the trottle on and off. Makes the exhaust sound like a pod racer when it does, whub whub whub whub etc.... Only lasts about 3-5 seconds then steadys out again. Could this be because of the dodgy boost controller or does anyone have any other ideas?

Car is lightly modified (240bhp), Stage 2 "customised" Re Map (Custom Code), all turbo hoses changed for samco, CAI behind bumper, Downpipe, Sports cat and Exhaust etc.... (all the normal mods)

Sorry for the thread hijack also.

Regards

Garry

[Beretta]

Which boost controller are you running???

Also I run the "J" and it does let the car hold boost for longer.

[GarryC]

To the best of my knowlege its a STD one. I got a pile of recipts and history with the car about 6" deep and their is no mention of a boost controler or N75 or N75J.

Is the N75J a direct replacement, might be worth changing to this just as a precaution. Will their be any ill effects?

Cheers Gerry.

[Beretta]

To the best of my knowlege its a STD one. I got a pile of recipts and history with the car about 6" deep and their is no mention of a boost controler or N75 or N75J.

Is the N75J a direct replacement, might be worth changing to this just as a precaution. Will their be any ill effects?

Cheers Gerry.

Gaz',

As others have said, some engines like them and others do not, but at £45 its worth a punt, and when we put one on mine, it certainly helped it hold the boost longer than the OEM one.

When you mentioned boost controller, I assumed you had and optional extra one, which might have had the adjustment to alter the boost, but as not then back to the N75.

Have you had it on a decent RR yet????

[GarryC]

Okay, will just take it back to Simon at F1 Brighton and let him look at it

Not had a chance to get it on my Rolling road yet, no. too busy doing development on other cars. lol. It goes well enough so im happy with that. (not found a K03S powered car that can get by me yet )

Regards

Garry

[eNcode]

hy about this

is it ok to put it on or not

i have cat back exaust

amcom intake

if i put it on what would i get

high boost can this ECU folow or not

etc

help

[billy2981]

hi guys,

i ahve a remapped car along with CAI and soon a turbo back zorst.

is it worth me gettin one and are they a skoda part?

if not were can they be got fairly well priced?

cheers

[martziniuk]

They are fine to use and should not cause any fault codes. Iam not sure if you will get any other issues, mine is great. They are a VAG part.

I got mine here with free p+p OEM Parts - The Genuine VAG Parts Warehouse

[billy2981]

cheers

did they fit the J one to cars?

my vRS was an 05 one?

[martziniuk]

No its always been the n75f valve fitted to the vrs. This valve was originally fitted to the older audi turbo models.

For anyone who does try this valve it fits the opposite way to the n75f. Make sure the electrical connector faces the bulkhead and not the front of the car.

The connecting lead is a little stretched but its ok.

[billy2981]

Does anyone have the vag pn for the n75j valve?

and what it cost from skoda or vw?

cheers

billy

[pearce_jj]

Just posted that on this thread: http://briskoda.net/forums/octavia-i/stuttering-1-8t-when-moving-off/111230/

About £80 fitted.

[martziniuk]

Just posted that on this thread: http://briskoda.net/forums/octavia-i/stuttering-1-8t-when-moving-off/111230/

About £80 fitted.

Thats for the n75f valve.

For the J valve i don't think you will find much cheaper than the £43 in the link i posted above (search for n75).

[billy2981]

cheers.

i have family in the trade but I need the vag number for the J one?

[martziniuk]

cheers.

i have family in the trade but I need the vag number for the J one?

snap me too, its an Audi part number (used in the old 80's turbo models), if no one finds it i will look it up for you later.

[billy2981]

cheers mate,

so is the n75 j an old valve?

what is the diff between that and the std one on the vRS?

[Lex Dysia]

034906283H for the H valve which is the one I would go for or 034906283J for the J valve

H is £31.74 and J is £38.37 from vagparts.com HTH

[billy2981]

cheers,

y would you go for the H over the J?

[Lex Dysia]

I believe and I could be wrong that it is the same as the ECS race valve only much cheaper, The ECS is allegedly a "tweaked" H but how you can tweak an N75 I have no idea. I have heard it gives good gains over the standard N75 by holding boost longer as does the J. My N75 is fine though and if it aint broke as they say Personal preference I guess, if I ever change mine that is the one I will go for first

[Neo_VR]

Well my N75J arrived today, will try it at the weekend and see what it does.. if it doesnt work expect to see it in the for sale section soon

[martziniuk]

I know of two members on this forum running the Ecs race valve (modified h).

They reported no difference in outright performance but it helped alot to smooth out their surging problem.

I would personally go for the J valve but i don't think there is much in it.

The J valve was installed in the 80s & 90s Audi 100 and Audi Quattros.

The H valve was installed in the Audi 100 and A6/S6 of the 90s

The F valve replaced the brilliant n75c which as i have read was an excellent valve and very stable. Why it was superseded is beyond me.

HTH