Changed them today not to hard but **** the alan key bolts where hand tight on the calipers and i bought this for my wife :eek:

Aye, nothing like going over the car yourself - these guide bolts are not meant to be seriously tight though, that's what rounds off the hex bit in the bolts.

Aye, nothing like going over the car yourself - these guide bolts are not meant to be seriously tight though, that's what rounds off the hex bit in the bolts.

I know but i should have said finger tight i put in the key to see if it was the right fit and it moved with my finger and thumb:eek:

What type of nut is that on the end of the driveshaft is that more money for a special socket and the drivers side is different from the pass:confused:

What type of nut is that on the end of the driveshaft is that more money for a special socket and the drivers side is different from the pass:confused:

The nuts should be identical - both right handed threads, something makes me think that you tend to fit the newer type when you replace them - they are use once items anyway. My wife's Polo 9N 2003MY had the newer nuts from the factory and the socket needed for them was 36mm bi-hex - I just bought a Laser 36mm bi-hex deep impact socket as that was all I could get hold of at the time.

Question, why do you feel the need to remove the shaft/hub nuts? Are you replacing strut inserts or springs?

Just thought that if you have found that the driver's side and passenger's side nuts look different, then that might be due to someone having replaced a (broken) road spring already - or a strut insert, replacing the N/S bits is possible without removing this nut - the working on the O/S means separating the hub from the drive shaft as the crossmember causes the TCA to reach the end of its travel before its possible to ease the base of the strut out of the hub "socket".

have dun both springs and disks the nut on the drivers side is a hex key and on the pass its a round sort of cog looking:confused:

ps i managed the drivers side spring with cutting the spring to get the strut out and a jack to get it back in

have dun both springs and disks the nut on the drivers side is a hex key and on the pass its a round sort of cog looking:confused:

ps i managed the drivers side spring with cutting the spring to get the strut out and a jack to get it back in

Right, the "round sort of cog looking" nut, if you look at it again, you might consider it to be a "twelve pointed" nut - most unusual but true. That is the reason you would need a bi-hex socket to remove it. That means that the N/S hub has already been off for some reason.

Someone at work asked me why I had not just taken an cutting disc to the first spring that I replaced - I explained that as this spring had broken at half height, there was no point - but I still disconnected the drive shaft so that the new spring could be fitted easier. By the way, those tapered springs are a bit awkward to compress down to a useful length are they not? So did you disconnect the suspension at the lower swivel or remove the strut from the hub assembly?

I always use thread locker on "use once" bolts... Makes me think that I'm being extra careful....NOT

I took the strut out the hup I'm going to buy 2 new bolts for the bottom of the struts the old ones look worn ill go to my dealer MON:thumbup:

ps it was B to get the drivers side back in and i had to cut of the droplink fitted 2 new ones

Remember not to over tighten the hub nuts. They arent done that tight. something like 60mn and 90 degrees but it depends on type of driveline fitted.