TMB

Never had to use one myself but there are quite a few videos on YouTube, such as this....

Once you have unbolted the two window regulator clamps you can just pull the window closed and tape it to the top of the door frame. No need to take it out of the door. I taped mine at the bottom but either way is fine. I think I taped the bottom because I had to use the car before the job was finished and I needed the door to close properly.

Yep, definitely balance machining.

Yes, in conjunction with the coolant temp sensor.

Because the sensor determines how much fuel is injected according to temp.

Wheel bearings don't usually suddenly go pop, they just get noisy and then you know they need replacing. It's not a particularly easy job to do just for prevention, and they might go on for many more miles yet. But it's your car and up to you of course.

^ Great info! I'd honestly never heard of a 'noid light' but I've never needed to touch an injector so far. You learn something every day

This is very true

Yeah, definitely worth changing the temp sensor if it's old. Dead easy job. Strongly advise getting a genuine one. Part number 06A 919 501 A

Superfluous post.

You don't have much luck with this car Mike. Thankfully, radiators can be had for cheap money these days. Unfortunately, the bumper, crash bar and slam panel has to come off to do the job. These videos may help with the general idea...

I think member Wino has a Gen 2 kit that wasn't too expensive. He might tell you what it is.

There should be no play at all on them. Did you torque the nuts properly?

No, it requires Gen 2 bearing tooling. The bearings have to be fitted correctly as they will fail otherwise. You won't need to disturb the bearing if only doing the driveshaft though. The driveshafts can be stubborn if they've never been out before as I heard they used some kind of bonding on some of them from the factory. I had to buy a hub puller to get mine out. This is the one I have.... https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht240-universal-hub-puller/?da=1&TC=GS-040211902&gclid=CjwKCAiAouD_BRBIEiwALhJH6PgKPavrnaLk2fihq09QWNyHULjC16koSzCB-lGNePBg2CFgvajmihoCgusQAvD_BwE

Sealey is normally decent stuff.

Mine is always getting misted up despite no evident leaks, so thanks for the heads-up about the moisture absorber, I nipped down to Halfords and bought two so I can have one in the car and one to use when the other is being dried out. It made an immediate difference to codensation on the windscreen. I leave it on the dashboard above the instrument panel until I need to drive. Quite surprised at how well it works. I have some electronic kitchen scales I can weigh them on to see when they need drying out.

Does look like the right one. Seems very expensive considering you can get pattern central locking ones for about £23.

You might have to take the front seat out and remove the door card and metal panel and then smash the lock to get it to open.

https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6y6853140gru-roof-trim-cover-oe-5689.html Item 2... https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2001-225/8/853-853000/

Think they are wanting the interior one not the external.

Looks like one of these depending on chassis number....

You should have bolted door panels on a 2002 car. Maybe a door from a later car was fitted at some point? So your car doesn't have central locking?

30mm, 12 point. Torque 70Nm + 30 degrees. Part number N 906 545 02 When I did mine the nuts came with the new bearings. It's a very easy job, you just take the brake drum off, prise out the bearing nut cover and undo the nut. The whole bearing/hub assembly just pulls off. Full bearing kit for one side is 6Q0 598 611