TMB

Thermoplastic is what you want (Hytrel, polyester elastomer). The cheap rubber ones are terrible. I fitted Febi branded ones to mine. I use this crimper which you use with a 1/4'' drive socket ratchet... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CV-BOOT-CLAMP-PLIERS-CRIMPING-TOOL-3-8-TORQUE-SETTINGS-FOR-SKODA-OPEL-FORD/133392863675?hash=item1f0ed591bb:g:sO8AAOSwg6VeoBWV

I've been doing some more digging. There is a Servotronic steering which is Production code 1N3 - Speed-related variable steering assist (Servotronic). However, I don't know if it was ever fitted to UK Mk1 Fabias but I've seen it listed for other Skodas, such as Octavias. 1N2 - Power steering electro-hydraulic 1N3 - Speed-related variable steering assist (Servotronic). Almost certain yours will be the bog-standard 1N2. The codes are in the front of the service book and on a sticker under the boot carpet.

Wheel bearing for power steering is bigger diameter. I don't think any UK Fabias come without power steering. The bottom bearing here should be yours... https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2001-225/4/407-407010/

According to Skoda, the roof trim just levers off... https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/body/body_work/exterior_equipment/roof_drip_moulding/removing_and_installing_roof_drip_moulding/

Posh name for the type of power steering we have I think. EDIT: Incorrect. There is a Servotronic but maybe not on Mk1 UK Fabias.

I wonder if it's had a replacement screen at some point and they did a bad job of the seal.

Here's a pic of one from ebay which has the air outlet. You can clearly see one of the metal clips with the other one possibly missing in this case. Unfortunately, I can't see the clips listed as a separate part on ETKA, so if you need some you might have to get them from a scrap car, or maybe Skoda might be able to get them.

On mine (2003) there are two metal spring clips that hold the cubby closed. Maybe one or both of yours are missing? I think I remember that one of my clips once fell out and I had to refit it. Yours might be slightly different being a vRS with the air outlet thingy in the cubby as mine doesn't have that but it should be something similar. Just gone out in the cold and rain to take a pic for you...

This is usually casued by a very common issue - drivers' door lock unit microswitch failure. The locking issue you're having is probably the lock unit too. The solder joints in them can fail due the fatigue from the countless times opening/closing of the door, or the unit can fail in other ways. And regarding the window issue - the electronics for the windows are inside the drivers' window motor unit, which is behind the door card. This unit can fail. Sometimes the wires can be broken inside the rubber door bellows too. The door cards from a Mk2 or Mk3 definitely won't fit. The seats from a Mk2 will fit though.

The racks tend to leak into the passenger side gaiter from the rack end seal. The leak can apparently be very slow - mine has the same problem. I topped up the fluid ages ago and it still hasn't noticeably dropped, so I just live with it but I do a very low annual mileage. I became aware of the leak when I was replacing the rack gaiters (drivers' side was perished, so I did both) and when I cut open the passenger one it had PAS fluid in it...

A few years ago, I buggered my needle illumination by trying to change the four green needle LEDs for red ones. I ended up having to mount two LEDs in the top of the cluster cowl to shine down and light up the needles. I learned my lesson not to touch the bloody things in future

Here is a video which may be helpful. Same procedure except you will need to drill out the pop rivets as his is bolted...

No problem. Let us know if you need any further help/info.

Probably needs the lock unit replacing. If your car is a 2006 model it will have pop riveted inner door panels.

They are not absolutely essential. I had a Mk2 Fiesta 950cc that had no shields on the front as standard.

Yeah They should do. No worries

If the three bottom ball joint bolts haven't been touched for a long time they tend to snap, or the captive nuts break away from the plate, so just be aware of that. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ball-Joint-Mounting-Kit-fits-SKODA-FABIA-99-to-14-N0195441-N0195441S1-N0195442/333551343099?epid=4035655165&hash=item4da93595fb:g:Kg4AAOSwgs1fGapA

Obviously you need a tool to free the track rod end taper too. I know some people twat them with a hammer but each to their own.

The CV joint is held onto the driveshaft by a snap-ring. You can tap the joint off the shaft with a hammer. The CV boot clips need a crimping tool to crimp them on. I use a CV joint puller which makes it easier than using a hammer... And I have this crimper which is nicer to use than the pliers type...

Yeah, 36mm 12 sided. You need a thin-walled 36mm socket as thicker ones won't fit in the hub nut recess. Some early Fabias have a different allen-key type nut (19mm hex) - (part number 6E0 407 395 A) but it is recommended to replace that nut with the later type as they are interchangeable I managed to use a thicker socket but I had to take some metal off it...

Ah, that would explain it. The muck and water has probably got in and ruined the joint.

You could just replace the outer CV joint. In my experience the inner ones hardly ever give trouble. Example... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Audi-A2-Skoda-Fabia-Roomster-Quality-Front-CV-Joint-Kit-ABS-Drive-Shaft/192701070904?epid=1650533249&hash=item2cdde0fe38:g:UQ8AAOSwRNhb0df8

No worries

Ah, good Did you try the magnet to find the grub screw? If I remember correctly, the doors have a crevice at the bottom that seems to swallow up tiny screws and they are never seen again

Grub screw is M5x9. Part number N 90976902 ebay seems to mostly have M5x8 or M5x10. I guess the M5x10 would be fine rather than risking the shorter one.