TMB

Oh wait, not sure if they are 3mm LEDs or SMDs in the switches. I'm sure last time I took one apart that it had a 3mm green LED in it but I could be wrong. Anyway, same thing - you have to solder red ones in if that's what you want.

Yes, it can be done. You have to replace the green 3mm LEDs with red ones by opening the switches and soldering red ones in after removing the green ones.

Suspension/steering needs inspecting for damage. Alignment is the last thing you do when you know everything else is OK. I agree with Westbury63 that the chassis is unlikely to be damaged. I once did the same thing in my first car (a Hillman Imp). I was inexperienced and tried to do a three-point-turn on a narrow country road and I rolled back into a ditch. Got pulled out of the ditch by a kind man in a passing Triumph 2000. No damage, thankfully

Looks decent. I use VCDS-Lite which is a free version of the full VCDS. You just install it on a laptop and use a VCDS cable to connect to the car. I also have a cheap scanner which seems to work OK for basic use....

Sounds like something is suddenly jamming up. A/C compressor related maybe? I guess it can only be that or the alternator really. Seems to be the only two things it drives?....

OK no worries

If the pump was frozen you are not using a strong enough screenwash mix. The freezing might have damaged the direction valve on the pump.

Yes they are injector seals. As you know, mine has the same engine and it doesn't exibit any of this behaviour when it's cold so there must be something wrong. Are you able to scan it for fault codes? I have a known-good genuine VAG coolant temp sensor you can have for nothing if you want. I could post it to you.

Tell Jen to stop thrashing it and breaking things

Just as it is

Pull the belt to the max out of the reel and polish it with Mr Sheen. Works great on mine.

Access is very awkward. Track rod end obviously has to come off, then you have to destroy the inner clip to get the boot off, they are a one-use only crimp type. There is not much room to get new proper crimp type clips on. I found using Jubilee clips was easier, but if you're a contortionist, you might get the proper ones on. Hose clips I used were Halfords 32-50mm in stainless steel.

On the heater control panel there is a temp sensor and a tiny fan behind the little grille. You might have a problem with that. Check it's not clogged up with dust.

The large hose is 047103493F I can't find a listing for the smaller hose but 5mm vacuum hose works.

I like how they bunged all the holes up on the new engine. I wonder where they get those proper bungs from....

Gah, you already said it was running in one of your Friday posts. I really shouldn't post straight after a nap

Ah, cool

Nice work EDIT: Deleted daft question. It's not running yet.

I always recommend a genuine VAG sensor as some of the pattern ones are crap. Febi should be OK though.

Cam sensor and O-ring...

These are the breather pipes....

I removed my rearmost shield. I managed to get it off without removing the exhaust but I had to mangle it somewhat. It used to vibrate and rattle so I got fed up with it and threw it away I wouldn't get rid of the ones any further forward though as catalysts run at mad temps.

I honestly don't know what the cost would be as I don't use garages as I do all my own stuff. Faults like the sender unit resistance track being worn won't necessarily come up as a fault code. We've had faulty sender units on this forum quite a few times.

Doesn't affect MPG at all. You might have a separate issue there. No probs at all

The bulkhead one is a favourite to come apart so maybe check that one first.