Ecomatt

I know they say warm the engine up but I have never done one on a warmed engine. With heat everything expands and so makes it tighter. Usually only a tiny bit of force is needed with a long bar. If it snaps it snaps. It can be extracted out without a head off job. They are not torqued up tight but generally get stuck with the carbon and soot from the other end.

Make sure the car is on a level surface. Access the headlight regulation control unit 55. Select Basic Headlight Setting and run the setting. Then select Acknowledge Basic Setting and run the setting. You might get asked for a security login and the one I used was 20103. It is as simple as that. If you find tge headlights are still a bit low they mat need raising manually. I am going to get mine checked when I get the alignment done to make sure they are spot on.

This is the stance and looks spot on to me.

I am on 19s with Goodyear Asy 5 tyres run at manufacturer pressures. I do not have any pictures yet as they can take a week or so to fully settle down. I will get one tomorrow to show how it looks 👍 I planned to fit them myself but ran out of good weather and time, as we have a 3.5yead old daughter and 10 week old son. So pretty much no free time. I also have obdeleven to reset the headlight level but am going to get an alignment done.

Well after a few miles I can say this is how the car should have been setup from the factory. The ride is very compliant and actually rides over the bumps better. The car feels like it is gliding almost it is so smooth. Both acceleration and braking are improved as there is less shift in weight transfer. It corners nice and flat with plenty of grip and makes the car feel nimble. My wife has been in it today and did not complain at all. So the setup passed the wife test 🤣. It also sits just right for my eyes. Not too low the tyre touches the arch but just high enough for a nice gap between the arch and tyre. Most notable is the huge reduction in nvh through the tyres. The cabin area is a much quieter place to be. All in all a nice modest upgrade to the car.

All the parts from Autodoc cost £440 give or take so not too bad.

Yes fitted Sachs top mounts and Clubsport GTi rear arb with TRW drop links. Again from Autodoc as they were the cheapest place to get them from.

I purchased bilsteins own top mount and bearing kit along with TRW drop links through autodoc.

Well after my Bilstein B4, Eibach Pro kit, top mounts, arb drop links, Clubsport GTi rarb had been sat in the garage for nearly 9 months now for my VRS. They were finally fitted to my car today and what a transformation. It feels like a new car and the road noise has decreased massively. I have only driven it a mile but what a difference. The car is not bumpy and feels very compliant over the bumpy roads. The car turns in more keenly and feels a lot more positive. Money well spent!

The standard TRW pads and discs are more than up to the job of daily driving so I would stick with the standard items. I have used performance pads in the past and worse ones were on my Focus RS mk1. They sounded like a bus stopping with the squeel they made. Others performance pads do not work as good as standard when cold so you do not get that initial bite. I purchased a full set of TRW 340mm discs/pads and 272mm disc/pads from autodoc for under £170 including delivery so I would look at them to see what they can do. Also change the brake fluid frequently.

I would always buy genuine after the headache I had with them.

I purchased NGK and they quickly went faulty again. Fitted genuine plugs and not had any issus since. From what a VAG specialist said is that the system is very sensitive to resistance and to always fit genuine plugs.

They can clunk even with genuine pads. The caliper guide is slightly larger than the pads to prevent the pads expanding and becoming stuck when really hot. Most performance brakes do this but they have a large spring clip to keep the pad in place. The TRW calipers do not for whatever reason and causes the pad to move and clunk slightly.

Most knocks are from the top mounts whem turning. They are a common part to fail but require the whole damper to be removed to change them.

Most pads have the anti rattle spring clip on the tips of the pads. They just need taking out and spring clips spreading out slighlty.

The simple upgrade is a remap and there are plenty of good tuners out there. Racingline, Awesome Gti, Superchips, R-Tech to name a few. Generally you need a sports cat and downpipe to benefit from any real gains as a cat back just gives you more noise. I am not sure if you are DSG or manual but if manual the clutches are not all that strong once mapped and do tend to start slipping. If DSG you can have that mapped for better shift points etc.

B4 are generally thought to be around 10% stiffer than the oe dampers. I have some in the garage still waiting to go on my car. Only been there 8 months now 🤣

You can use any independant garage to service the car as long as they use genuine parts. I would look for a VAG specialist in your area and use them for the VAQ service.

Simple advise is to deactivate it. Lane keeping assist is a pointless feature. The only thing people need to keep in lane is eyes to look and arms to steer. No manufacturer will be bothered as it is an assist feature. It does not take away the responsibility of the driver to actually drive the car and if a scenario occurs, such as high lighted by the op. Then deactivate it temporarily or deactivate it period. I have lane assist on my car and it is never activated as I find it too intrusive. Plus when people rely on tech to drive a car you do switch off behind the wheel and become less aware of surroundings. Some car safety features are more dangerous than safe if you ask me.

Has the garage any experience with VAG engines? It could be one og many things and ideally need to see if the coolant is fully circulating around the engine. Have you had the coolant pump changed at all?

The 1.6 will do the job just fine if you trundle along. Mine is the VRS TDi and is mapped. I easily get over 60mpgs on the motorway. I would find a good example of each engine size and take it for a drive. That way you can decide which you prefer.

Worth asking because my dad had a similar issue in his mondeo. Turned out to be the clutch release bearing and they replaced it all with a new clutch and plates as it was causing slip.

Has the fuel filter been changed at all? If not it might be blocked causing a reduction in fuel pressure. Always try the simple solutions first.

You are covered under the Consumer Rights Act 2015 for 6 months from the date of purchase. Basically any used car had a 6 month warranty despite what the garage says it is law. If they don't abide by it or try and b.s you saying their warranty does not cover it. You can take them to a small claims court but you have to give them one attempt to repair it.

Have you reset both mpg trips? There is the long term and current mpg. There is one that says since refill but that only resets when fuel goes in. If you have not reset any of those it will show lower than ordinary mpgs. Mine is mapped and I get about 50mpgs on a 6 mile drive to work. Most of that is at either 30mph or 50mph. On the motorway it goes upto 55mpgs +