Ecomatt

Any coding done will not be overwritten by a remap. My car is mapped and all the coding is fine.

Glad you got out relatively unscathed. The Superb is a heavier chassis so I wouldnt expect it to be as economical or as quick. However a remap can sort that out if needed. I looked at swapping to a Superb L&K but was shocked as to how wide they are compared to the Octavia. I couldnt get one on my drive. Either way both are excellent cars.

The damper will not swing round as it is still secured by the top mount, so stops it flexing.

Just doing belts and braces for what they cost. If either of them fail you have to take the whole lot off again. Plus my car has done 86000 miles so at some point they would eventually fault.

I purchased all new genuine bolts to do this job when the weather picks up and they came to £65 in total. I have my Bilstein B4 and Eibach Pro kit sat in the garage. I also purchased new top mounts and bearings and the Clubsport S rear ARB, also new anti roll bar links front and rear. So a bit of work to do but a lot of fun none the less.

If you want a good plug in and play remap I would go with Superchips. I have used them in about 5 or 6 of my cars and never had an issue with the map or from the map being installed. I have had Shark before (now Racing Line) and almost got one for my current Skoda. But Superchips have excellent maps and also £100 off. They come to you to install it or you can get a Bluefin/Powergate handheld to do it yourself.

Being the FL you will have 312mm at the front and 272mm at the rear.

Yes a blocked dpf causes the engine go into a limp mode and reduced power. I would get the dpf cleaned and take it from there. View it like a cork in the bottle. If there is a blockage the ecu will see it and restrict the amount of pressure the turbo produces.

If the dpf is blocked the car will run in limp mode. Not sure the DPF guy gave you the best advice as it wouldnt block up that quick no matter what the fault was. I would get the dpf cleaned and take it from there. Or get a service regen and see if that helps.

Rather than guessing at what the problem is I would get it looked at by a VAG specialist. Sometimes what appears to be the most obvious problem actually isnt. This might be a failing cam sensor which can cause similar issues. But it is a good idea to change the spark plugs and check the coil packs. If you get a mifire on a cylinder you can move the coilpack to another. If the misfire moves you know it is the coilpack. If it doesnt then you know it is the spark plug, injector or a harness issue. I used to change my plugs every 10,000 miles. The new iridium tips plugs are better at lasting than plugs of old. But the cores are still the same and prone to breaking. Equally I would ditch the aftermarket filter as they offer no increase in performance and poorer filtration. The standard filter will flow more than enough air for a mapped Golf R so will easily flow enough for your car. Sometimes aftermarket filters can induce turbulence over the maf sensor and cause fluctuations and rumning issues. I have experienced that on my mk2 VRS TFSi. Had a boost fluctuation in the mid range which went when I refitted the standard filter and that was running 280bhp.

Until it is cleared by a fault code reader it will stay as a notification. I have OBDeleven and keep it in the glovebox for issues like these.

It will be the position switch on the base of the gear lever. Very easy to fix and plenty of how to guides on here.

I would just go 36psi and 46psi cold pressure. They are rated as upto rather than exact weight.

You need either OBDeleven or VCDS. They will show any faults plus allow a reset. I use OBDeleven as I keep it in the glovebox just incase something goes wrong whilst I am out. Or you could book it into a VAG specialist.

If in auto mlde they perhaps just need a reset.

The standard air filter will be better than any aftetmarket filters. They dont flow all that much better. Afyer doing lots of research many years ago when I had my MK2 VRS TFSi. I realised there was only a 0.9% pressure drop between a standard and aftermarket filter. Basically nothing. I had a K&N panel fitted and I had turbo flutter at around 3k from memory. I refitted the standard filter through trial and error trying to find out what was causing it. The flutter went and the car ran better as the air was better smoothed for the maf sensor to read it more accurately. Personally I would not bother with an aftermarket filter as they dont filter aswell or offer any increase in performance.

If you have the cash saved to buy it and you like the car I would say buy it. If you are having to take out a loan to buy it I would think more carefully, as you will be tied into that car and loan for a few more years and you will not be able to change the car without it costing a lot more money. I would have a look at what else is out there both new and used car. Also bare im mind that given the cost of living is going up drastically and if you are UK based. That means there will be less money for people to change their cars and will be more likely to make do with what they already have. Most places who buy used cars the prices they offer are going down as the new car market is starting to get going aswell. I check mine every week on wbac and other sites. About 6 weeks ago I was offered £13000 for my 65 plate 86000 miles VRS tdi. Now the same companies are offering me £9750. I personally would not want to be in that position of buying a used car at the moment given the prices will drop and will be in negative equity for a while.

There are plenty of options but I would always go with a remap. Not a fan of the tuning boxes personally. I have had Shark Performance (now Racingline) maps and couldnt fault it. I have also had 5 or 6 cars mapped by Superchips Bluefin and never had any issue. My current car (same as yours) is mapped by Superchips and the car drives spot on. Plus I can remove the map and go back to standard easily when I sell the car.

This was my drive home. 12 minute drive and around 6 miles from cold. Max speed around 50mph with around 2 miles at 30mph.

Managed this on the 6 mile drive to work. The engine was already warm and was showing 49mpg on the counter as I had driven from warrington about an hour earlier. However the drive home later will not be so economical 🤣

Economy mode doesnt really work. Tried it and just feels the same as Normal. Also type of tyres fitted will decrease mpgs with rolling resistance. New air filters can help if it has not been changed. Stabdard I could get high 50s and low 60s on the motorway and around mid 40s for town. I get the same at stage 1 but it gets to those figures quicker. Also you need to reset the mpg and the time driven to get more accurate figures.

All speedometers under read to allow differences in tyre circumferences. Mine under reads by 2 to 3mph from my sat nav gps speed. I personally would take it back to a Skoda garage as your car is still in warranty and let them recalibrate the speedo on ODIS. If you mess around with it and things go wrong you will not be covered.

It might be something as simple as a blocked fuel filter. Has the car gone to a vag specialist?

Might be pad rattle as I get it every now and again. The 340mm TRW calipers are known for it.

You can buy pad shims from any decent motoparts store.