Sam84

I fitted kit using that loom and no splicing required, it just plugs in to control unit under the steering wheel. All plug and play, only thing ive found is that my seats stay on after ignition key is removed, not sure if its way ive wired it, not really bothered looking into it.

Does anyone else experince feedback through the speakers when using connect2? Mine whistles with the engine revs, ive tried moving the earth and it made no difference.

Unless like me you welded some bolts to the floor so you could put nuts on an attach it very securely!

Grey for me

I got a full set of poweflex bushes fitted and havent noticed any different, think i got charged about 150-200 but i had top mounts changed, droplinks, ball joint and track rod ends changed as well. The price is going to vary massivley depending on where you go.

Mine had just been cleaned and then had to park in a field!

Very nice SE!

All fixed now, the power wire had actually got unpluged from yellow plug. I plugged it back in and retaped it and all sorted! Thanks for the help people, i had checked the power at back of unit and saw that it was still putting out 12v and then saw the loose wire.

I once left a wire loose in the back and it turned out to be the telephone mute wire and it was touching metal frame causing it to think the phone was connected.

i welded bolts to the floor and bolted it down as i thought putting screws in would be flimsy.

I checked it off the back of the wire, i will check the HU next time. Thanks

Thanks will try that later on.

Yeah standard head mate, tbh id rather have an aftermarket head unit!

Hi guys, had a sub & amp in the car for a while hooked up to standard stereo. Its using one of those yellow blocks with 2 x rca outputs and a remote wire to turn the amp on with the stereo. Now so some reason the remote power wire has stopped working, i checked the boltage with multimeter, everything else is working and if i power it seperatly it works. Any ideas? Or which wire can i attach it to thats ignition live as dont want the amp permantley on. Cheers

Try calling them, i did when i got mine and they were very helpful and sorted everything straight away.

Ive got none genuine tank on mine and ive noticed mine is leaking from spout, gona try genuine tank and new header cap before anything else.

Bought exact same top mounts from same seller, stopped the knocking made it feel much better and the seller was helpful as well.

If youve got it all apart just replace everything! Makes sense to fit new bushes, track rods and arms etc etc if theyve been on a while may be past there best.

Id use faboka, i even messaged him about turning my eml light off and he offered to do it at a very reasonable price. I havent taken the offer yet as im skint but i will be going when ive got funds.

Yup take the adjusters out, easiest way to get it lower

I find to activate it you have to press the button on the end of the stalk first and then push the little switch on the stalk, i thought same as others due to no light being on display to indicate it being on

double post

Im pretty sure it can be fitted!

Aslong as its all fitted correctly yeah i can code it in for you. Cheers sam

It depends on how much money your willing to spend, I had JOM's on and it was knocking a lot so I picked up a 2nd hand set of AP's with top mounts and noise went away for a few months and then came back so I went whole hog: New Top Mounts inc Bearings, New Ball Joints, New Track Rods, Full Poly Bush Kit. It made the car so much better, mine is on over 100k though now so it was probably wise to change it but either way the cars can be over 10 years old so its a wise investment in my book to renew it all.