D.FYLAKTOS

I have the blue, the photo plus the orange simulating of dirt was an example. I had problem in the past with one with yellow collar and the stupid mechanic that install it was trying to persuade me that is the proper one but i insisted, NO. So i bought a new with blue ring and expensive and now i am reassured. My service notes helped me to understand the problem, i can call it as ''sneaky" because no one could believe that was the main cause of trouble, was hiding so well. The problem began when i change the water pump (seal leak, almost all the coolant out in the street i was luck that i found quickly a parking space and i stopped the car), something went wrong to the repair shop with the Antifreeze and then the ''downfall" came (thermostat problem, radiator switch change, 2 brand of G11 mixed with MoCool, ECU-chip needed update etc) plus the wrong valve gap and the spark plug reference. The Lambda sensor change was not necessary but i think the MAP change was. I spend hours, day or night trying to understand every time what was wrong and the scanning tools never helped me, deep inside me i believed that my notes and methodical work plus discipline will pay off. This was the main reason that i bought the TC-6, it was very expensive but with this i was able to have data to rely on and not just speculations, step after step i was making progress and with your help here i can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Till many year back they call it ''Cold Start valve" and some guys still do, now in the e-shops mention it otherwise often with both names so it's crucial first of all to know the code (357919501 B in our car). In the past i had problem with my dashboard gauge needle, was driving me crazy and after checking my service notes i started step by step to looking for anything unusual, some said that even maybe the factory gauge had a problem but i didn't believe them. Finally i found it, some dirt was on the sides on the bottom (i paint orange the spot in the below photo) that's why few days back i removed that sensor and cleaned with a piece of wool to be shine plus as an insurance that i won't have the same situation as in the past.

Take a look the below picture, it is from another member but it was Wrong and i made a rough correction. The problem of my Trusty was in the ''red" section where the coolant was restricted by the thermostat, at cold starts the coolant circles inside the ''red'' sector and the thermostat sensor reads and send signals. My old coolant was too thick, the whole temperature on the ''red" sector was a little bit low and took too much time than it should be to get warmed, the temperature gauge was showing that the needle took long time to get rise so the first kilometres the coolant temperature was less than it must and this cause me a raise on fuel consumption. Who needs a thick coolant in cities in Greece where the temperatures at winter are not below zero? The TC-6 was a great tool on this occasion, thanks to this i could read the instant fuel consumption and when i started to make my coolant thinner immediately show to me the (better) results. In Greece the mechanics call the thermostat sensor as ''Cold Start valve" because it's responsible for that task.

I forgot the word ''Less" before the temperature number. That was few days back before i added the Amsoil and the new Antifreeze HEPU G11, my coolant was too weak in purpose cause i was trying to remove it as much as i could and turn it to ''waterish". I run the car for few days with almost distilled water inside. Yes, the Ethylene glycol presence is not for antifreeze protection only, it is for corrosion and protects the seal of the pump which prevents from the coolant to get inside the bearing. I didn't want to take the risk to run my car for 2 years with distilled water only, i have some Ethylene glycol inside as an insurance for my water pump.

Today i added 200ml more from HEPU G11 pure antifreeze, according to the manufacturer of this product a mixture of 20% antifreeze and 80% distilled water gives protection till -8 'C and 30% antifreeze and 70% gives protection till -15'C (both numbers are very low for the place that i am living now. In few days i will take another measurement with the Antifreeze tester just for typical reasons. The TC-6 today at cold start shown at 2.8 litres per hour and every 1-2 seconds the number was dropping to 2.6-2.5-2.4 litres etc (keep in mind that with previous coolant was showing 3.6 litres) which make me very satisfied!

I had them as links, now i have upload them to YouTube so everyone can see them. Here is with the defective fuel sensor, the 4th cylinder it was malfunctioning and now with the stock working as it should be. In the future i will upload a video with the new sensor (i had to bought an extra from SP-EL) and the motor was working properly.

You should mention from which country are you so you can find members close by.

https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/44879/checking-engine-head-for-flatness-what-clearance-generally-in-mm

I can provide you with: Cylinder head bolts stage1 Nm and stage 2, stage 3 angles Cylinder head nuts Cylinder head fastener tightening sequence.

In Greece they call it ''tank vent valve", here is an example as a used part, some claim that they saw the gas station employee to press that button but to be honest i never saw any one to do it in my Felicia. Some guys do patents to increase a little bit the fuel tank capacity or (some Opel owners) to make the fuel run more easily but i would never like to be involved in such matters. Haynes manual says 42 litres but the Skoda manual that i have says ''about 42 litres".

Some guys do it here also but only when they travel from one city to another which is far away, it's night and they don't know if there is a gas station there etc but the rule is one: ''drive immediately" after such kind of tank fuelling.

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It's not so easy here, lot of bureaucracy and if not everything is done perfect then in a traffic police stop or in the Vehicle technical inspection Center (every 2 years here) you may have a huge problem, this means from a big fine and disqualification till seizure and court. Engine swap maybe it's very easy in other countries but here is from ''nightmare" to ''impossible" due to the Law, very sad situation caused by narrow-minded politicians. @Thefeliciahacker A relative thread in Greek language: https://forum.4troxoi.gr/topic/75687/node-75687/8 pay attention of what the user g60 said about that motor. As for availability: https://volkswagengroup.gr/Ανταλλακτικά-αυτοκινήτων_77/Μηχανικά-και-Εξαρτήματα_126/3876?sort=p.model&order=ASC and https://kritosparts.gr/SKODA-FELICIA-II-(6U1)-01-98-06-01-1.3-AMH-(68hp)-01-98-06-01/Flantza-kylindrokefali/m106_a4075_t11193_r318_v2 Sorry for you Felicia.

I had in the past problem with the water pump gasket, the mechanic did not apply sealant on the new gasket. In some other cases as below: Oil pan Transmission cover Valve cap Valve guides Timing cap Differential cap Transmission crankcase Water pumps Thermostat housings they use but when they keep the original gasket and it's in good condition.

In Greece till late 80's we had tariff on the price of the fuels which means in all the gas stations no matter the brand the price was ''fixed" so it was very common to ask you by another driver ''how many drachmas burns per kilometre" (''burn'' is the slang of consumption) and it was very easy to say the amount but later came the ''liberal" government and the whole situation turned to chaos. After almost 30 years and still there are some annoying drivers which ask you the same and when you explain them that this logic doesn't not exist any longer many of them get nervous. I asked the same question here in a local forum: One said maybe about 8 litres and the other said he believes till 4 litres (both with Octavia) which means that all these years no one has ever thought deeply this matter.

This must concers the majority of ''every day'' drivers, no matter if you have a Skoda or a Nissan when the pumps drops then inside in your tank are the 45 or 50 or 60 etc litres that the manual says? Or the manuals says that the 45 or 50 or 60 etc are the limit that the pump can fill your tank before overflue? The TC-6 rely on the factory floater so is extremely crucial for me to know.

Update: The antifreeze tester shown that my coolant is ''weak', it protects from -10'C only but this can be fixed because in purpose i have left a space inside the expantion tank so i can fill it with ''pure'' Antifreeze and not a 50-50% one. Till now the results are very good, the TC-6 at cold starts shows not only a better fuel consumption those crucial minutes plus the water temperatures rises much faster than before.Things now are much better than previous time. I will wait few days (meanwhile i will add a little bit of ''pure'' G11) and hope the final results would be as i expected.

I am not a Chemist that's why i don't want and i don't have the time to delve into the subject ''fuel''. I wish that the below quote was a rule in the gas stations here, many drivers (due to ignorance) or employees (for reasons that i have explained) don't follow it. The reason that i have opened this thread is to ask other members if they now for sure that the click of the pump means that are 42 litres in their tank (let's say in ideal conditions) of their Felicia. I haven't drive a car with trip computer in the past nor in the Army and for my own reasons i pay attention to the fuel consumption especially in city traffic. TC-6 is all i have so i had to work with it.

Rack Rate Fluctuations At 60 degrees Fahrenheit, the fuel’s volume stays constant. Here’s what happens if it’s hot or cold outside. If it’s warm outside and over 60 degrees when the fuel is delivered, it will have expanded because of the heat. After the fuel cools down to normal, the volume will shrink. If it’s cold outside and less than 60 degrees when the fuel is delivered, after the fuel is pumped into a temperature-controlled tank and warms to normal, the fuel will expand. Some Examples of Expansion and Contraction In a location where temperatures are constant and don’t vary – like Southern California or Hawaii, if you ordered a 5,000-gallon of gas, you’d know that’s what you’d received – 5,000 gallons of gas once it was delivered into your tank. You’d receive precisely what you paid for. But if you lived in South Dakota and received delivery on an extraordinarily frigid day, you’ll actually receive more gas. Here’s why – once the fuel is put into your temperature-controlled tank it will warm and expand. https://www.ricochetfuel.com/blog/the-facts-about-fuel-expansion-and-contraction/ An example of simple and understandable text for a simple driver.

I don't trust the repair-shops in many cases, if you take your car for coolant replace they just quick drain the old and add new with tap water and not distilled, they don't try to completely flush the old because they are in a hurry or don't want to work more. Every day i was pulling out about 750ml of old coolant and i was replacing it with distilled water, let the car run for a day and again the same procedure and every cold start i was monitoring the TC-6 and show that my car loved that kind of coolant replace. About zero which means was mainly distilled water with remains of few ml from old Antifreeze, this means i had no protection but this lasted few days only. We have sun here and no ice, after few days i will take another measurement from the Antifreeze tester.

TC-6 measurement at cold start in the morning: 2.6 litres per hour (was 3.6-3.2 before) and after few hours when i moved the car from the parking show 2.2 litres per hour and finally when i finished my shift show 2.3 litres per hour. The numbers dropping very fast to the 1.2-1 litre per hour and meanwhile the idle reached the 850 rpm which means things are getting much better. 🤩

The Amsoil Dominator arrived. Well...not exactly water, finally i manage to fill another 4 litre plastic can with the remains of the old coolant + distilled water that i used as flushing factor. The Antifreeze is HEPU G 11 blue colour, i made a 25 minutes ride later a volatilization and let's hope that everything will be fine because i am really tired with the whole matter. The Amsoil need from 1 till 7 days to work as i have seen on relative videos.

That system here in only for gas stations that work late at night, they have a default price for example 5-10-20-50 euro, you pay by cash on the slot or by card and the pump stops automaticaly. At day is an employee which many times suggests the amount rounding (gas owner instructions) and that destroys my fuel consumption measurement. It's vital for me to know that the end of the pump means that 42 litres are in my tank.

Youtube is just a modern tool, in older days we had books and the ''ask to learn'' system. Sometimes here the employees after the pump stops in purpose press again for few click wich means more fuel, their excuse is ''to round the amount'' for example from 12,20 euro to 15 or from 36,50 to 40 euro etc. This suppose to help in payment (no coins for change) but it's something that i hate plus ruins my fuel calculation. TC-6 it's my first trip computer, when i bought my car 21 years ago there was no forum or Youtube to search for informations.

Yes but we still can understand him, also we watch Chris Fix, 1ROAD, Headlight Revolution etc, even guys with ''russian'' accent as Sergiu Gabor are understandable but when we see video with screams and ghetto style behaviour as the first videos of KLEANTRIX then we bypass it. The bad thing about TC-6 is that the videos are made from Czech or Polish guys, no english subtitles, don't respond to email and the worst is that it's impossible to find a Greek driver with TC-6 in his Felicia to talk and exchange informations. I wonder does anyone tried ever to full fill his tank? How many litres above the specifications manage to get inside? In Felicia is 42 litres but anyone ever tried to see the limit? Is 43, 44 litres or more?