D.FYLAKTOS

This screw cause me the biggest problem, from all the screws of the dashboard i could reach it no matter how hard i tried and in many ways. I had no space, i tried normal, short even long screwdriver, Z type screwdriver, ratchet...the result was negative so i abandon any further action. As for the conditions when you have to work on the side of the road take an example, i had to work on Saturday because the car must be ready in Sunday (i had to go to a wedding) the rain started but i had to work, i was moving from the cabin to the hood and back in the trunk etc. I was full of sweat with a t-shirt wet from rain, i got cut 3-4 times in my hands, i was tired but i insisted and i managed to fix everything as i wanted. That's for @Thefeliciahacker which finds tasks like this easy and common.

I done a 43 Km city test today, in the first meters the needle was not moving !!! My blood frozen and my heart stopped beating, i said ''NO WAY'' thinking the effort and time to remove (again) the dashboard trying to solve the issue but thankfully everything turn back to normal after few seconds. Maybe that square end of the wire wasn't 100% positioned inside but after few turns made the proper ''click''. Everything Ok now, no ''tzzzz'' sounds so far (although i had to make a test in the Highway) and let's hope that molybdenum grease will last long.

For those which want to find a used gauge cluster here are the labels.

@Bete Noir I saw this thread with delay, bravo, God bless your hands !

Take a look how it was one of them and another one. Now all of them fixed.

I unscrew it, remove gently the speedometer cable and i push it back. This helped me to work more comfortable in the gauge cluster installing because my hand couldn't fit enough to push-in the white plug without damaging the harness. If you don't pay attention the white plug goes back and leaves the wire a bit exposed and while turning makes a ''tzzzz" noise which i hate. I didn't put too much grease in purpose, i pray that the square end of the wire fitted properly inside otherwise it would turn like crazy and i will not have any indications on the speedometer. Road test in few days.

I removed the wire and clean it thoroughly I clean the socket of the cluster plus the white plug of the plastic hose to be more ''tight'' and i used molybdenum grease on the wire. The head of that hexagon screw is for 9mm socket, i bet was for 10mm but i was wrong.

I grabed the chance to make some tiny repairs, from in-out all these years some plastic sockets were broken. so i manage to glue a washer to make things more ''tight''. Not a ''great job'' but for sure is far better now than before.

Friendly advice for anyone who will remove the dashboard for first time. Take pictures and notes from the plugs and the colour of the cables otherwise you will have major problem in re-installing process. The far right plugs are for a/c and air recycle (for those who have the latest model).

I am searching ways to lubricate that wire, i read about grease but which one? Common, Lithium, Molybdenum, Graphite? Spray as Silicone or WD-40? This guy used Vaseline.

Since i removed the dashboard (with the above technique) i grab the chance to put noise reduction products in the cables (red arrows) plus in the area that the sit (yellow arrow). because in the past i has squeeing noises from that areas. I use cloth tape and self adhesive (fire resistant) product as ''pillow'' so all those won't touch the plastics of the dashboard and won't produce noise while bouncing when the car is rolling in not in good quality asphalt.

This is how it looked when installed in the repair shop, the result (around) is not good because not everything (gauges, switches etc) is back in place and the console is dirty but can take an idea of how it looks. The position there is the best solution at that time, i could put it elsewhere but it wouldn't be visible and (some sort of) difficult to reach. I had an idea to put it in the plastic above the steering wheel where some cars have the Hazard button but the electrician said ''No''.

From previous attempts to stop seeking noises, it worked but it's trouble when it's time to remove the panel. Now it's cleaned and i will replace it with something else as quality silicone in small quantities of course.

When you want to remove the whole thing.

In process (floor mats are missing, i have made a custom order for these). An Alfa Romeo Brera (as @Thefeliciahacker has) blocked my exit from the repair shop !

But i said it few days ago, thus the photos. 🙂 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/525673-felicia-with-a-central-lock-unlock-switch/?do=findComment&comment=5886090 I will also paint the panel and the TC-6 plate and i will work on the speeometer cable hose. For this project i will continue here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/320528-replacing-felicia-speedometer-cable/?do=findComment&comment=5886857 when i finish i will post photos from the central lock switch (here) and in the future i will make a video since it's something unique for a Felicia.

This must be the No1 thing in Felicia that makes me extremely nervous, WHY they made the speedometer cable hose SO SHORT? Every time i had to re-install the panel back it's a painful process, i had to squeeze my hand to reach the white socket and while i am trying to connect it paying attention to hear the ''click'' before i push the panel back otherwise the plastic socket goes back and every time the speedocable turns produces a characteristic noise. WHY the didn't make that black hose at least 5cm longer? Where was their problem? I have to make a patent for this.

I could put it below the steering wheel cover buit it would be difficult to reach it when i was in a hurry. I put it there, was a digital clock ''just to fill the gap", in the future i will try to find another switch with green led light to mach better in the whole area.

Just in case that a member in the future will need the diagram that @Papez provided me, here it is in english. The switch is installed in the central console and works fine, when i finish with the panel (and the speedometer cable) i will post photos.

Just an information in case that someone else is want to do the same. Can i use in the future a switch with led on it? As the electric window switches but these have 6 pins. I had to do some insulation work inside, cloth tape around the cables, separate plugs with noise insulation so won't tough each other, tighten the panel screws etc. As for the cable what should i use when i put it back? Common, silicone, molybdenum, lithium grease? Silicone or WD-40 spray?

In the 1995- models was with A. I just remember that i didn't ask him but i think the switch is with no light on it. Now the car is without the panel, i had to make some tiny repairs (already have a broken screw position) on it plus i will try to paint it. By the way the mechanic pulled the wire (that from the gear box with the square nose which ends on the odometer) a lot, let's pray that it didn't did any damage and ''broke'' it from it's base.

Here are some first photos from the project, they are not so good because i was in a hurry. I was outside the repair-shop and i had to remove the panel by myself to save time and money. The relay says different than those that i was expected, 6U0 962 258 C and AEV 4012

At 11 volts stand-by (and cranking will drop it more) mine does not starts.

"if the battery voltage drops below 11.8V" Does your car starts with the battery at 11.8 Volt? I think if the switch is connected and the battery drops at 11.8V then disconects automaticaly, where is the problem?

Arrived, has everything inside the package. The directions are in chinese, was a trouble for them to make a translation page in english? The reason that i choose this model was this: Intelligent Automatic Disconnection: The car remote battery cut off switch features an automatic disconnection function that activates if the battery voltage drops below 11.8V. It automatically cuts off power within 120 seconds to conserve energy. Conversely, when the voltage exceeds 13.2V, the remote control becomes inactive to prevent accidental power cuts while driving, ensuring manual switch control only. Enhanced Battery Protection: By leveraging this leakage protection device, you can avoid unnecessary battery drainage caused by prolonged parking periods, well-functioning electronics, wiring degradation, or forgetting to turn off the lights. It effectively protects and extends the life of your vehicle's battery, ensuring it remains charged and ready for use, ultimately enhancing the overall longevity of your vehicle's electrical system.