How to replace Felicia 1.3 brake regulator

[JussiG7]

Hi guys!

 

I managed to change all the rusty rear part brake pipes and also all the brake hoses, but now it seems, that the threads in this 23 y.o. regulator are gone.

 

So I should change also this regulator/balancer/compensator. They are rather expensive, but that is not the main problem.

 

The main problem is how to remove the old regulator and to attach the new one.

 

It seems like being welded into the body of the car or at least to the rear axle ?

 

Regards, JussiG7 from Finland

[R_U_AFA]

There is 2 allen cap head bolts on the side that run all the way through the regulator.

 

 

Be careful not to round the allen heads off.

When I changed mine the bolts were well and truly ceased in, and I had to weld Allen bits into the bolt heads to avoid rounding them off.

[R_U_AFA]

I wouldn't have thought that the threads would be gone unless the pipe bolts were cross threaded or were massively over tightened, I mean 100Nm or more.

I found these a quite tricky to get in because of the bend in the pipe is so close to the end it wanted to pull the bolt back out of the regulator as I was screwing it in.

[R_U_AFA]

Just remembered, I had to remove the exhaust rear section to gain enough working space to remove the regulator bolts.

[JussiG7]

Thanks a lot !

 

Maybe they have been cross threaded and even over tightened, but that is not essential.

 

What really means, is that the old regulator must be removed without rounding off those allen bolts in a way or another (thanks about the hint to remove the exhaust rear section).

 

After that all the four pipes must be attached very carefully so, that the pipes are in the right angle (maybe also pushing the pipe in with another hand) and the bolts are screwed into the right threads.

And not too tight 😇

[mikefelicia]

I have a 1998 Felicia and have not changed the regulator yet but I did do a search see pics the bolts Number 2 are countersunk M8 X 58 you could buy S/S bolts and cut them down to size.

 

Do let us know how you get on with the replacement.

[JussiG7]

Thanks about the additional information  ❤️

 

It surely helps, if something would go wrong removing those original bolts.

 

I´ll let you know how I succeeded, but it may take some time, because there are so many other things to do before that.

 

Greetings from Finland,

 

JussiG7

[R_U_AFA]

3 hours ago, mikefelicia said:

e bolts Number 2 are countersunk M8 X 58 you could buy S/S bolts and cut them down to size

That's what I did, I seem to remember that I used 60mm length, the extra 2mm isn't of much concern, because the bolts screw into what are effectively captive nuts on the beam axle which allows the extra length to pertrude.

Oh, and I did forgot that the bolts were countersunk, and not caphead.

[JussiG7]

Thanks again!

 

I suppose I shall not use this car more than 3 years max. So, I ordered the cheaper Italian OE - part from Skoda-Parts.com .

The German alternative would be 3 times more expensive, but it seems to have a possibility to adjust the valve with a bolt and nut. 

Actually, I had to adjust the old regulator a bit two years ago, because it gave too much brake power to the front wheels versus the rear wheels.

But I suppose that also the Italian version works well the first 20 years. Would you have any comments to this subtopic?

 

JussiG7, Finland

 

 

[R_U_AFA]

The Italian one from skoda-parts is the exact one I fitted, and I have had no issues so far, it's been fitted for just over a year now. Remember there is some adjustment available from where abouts a you bolt the regulator's arm to the beam axle.

 

9 hours ago, JussiG7 said:

suppose I shall not use this car more than 3 years max. So

What?? It's a Felicia, it's got at least another 30 years in it.😁

[JussiG7]

Thanks about your comment !

 

Yes, there is a possibility to adjust the regulator while bolting the arm to the rear axle.

I hope, however, that I can fit the new one to the same marks that I do before removing the old one.

 

I have had two Felicias before this one. In both cars the engine broke as they had about 300 000km behind. But they had been in bad homes  

This one has been treated well all its life, so I believe that though now driven 345 000km, it may reach even 400 000km, which is really good!

 

 

[D.FYLAKTOS]

On 20/10/2023 at 14:03, JussiG7 said:

The German alternative would be 3 times more expensive, but it seems to have a possibility to adjust the valve with a bolt and nut.

 

An example

https://www.car-parts.ie/car-parts/trw/p-2194133

 

Here in GR the price is

https://www.car.gr/parts/view/24367896-katanemitis-frenwn

 

The code is 1H0 612 151?

[RicardoM]

@JussiG7Any progress? Please post new photos.

[JussiG7]

Sorry, I had forgotten the topic totally!

 

No photos, but a short story:

 

1. The old regulator was so tightly bolted to the car and rusty, too, that I had to break it !  Just cut thin slices from the regulator until I reached the level, where the allen bolts did not get thinner any more. I used my angle grinder with a thin cutting plate.

2. Installed the new balancer to the same place and tightened it with bolts. The spring bolt to the same position where the previous had been.

3. Installed all the four brake pipes very carefully and slowly.

4. Bleeded the brakes and... went to the annual inspection. 

 

And that´s it !!! The brakes worked very well in the brake dynamometer, and still are working. Which is good as we now have a hard winter here! Merry Xmas to all and many thanks, too !!!

 

Johann Sebastian Gren from Finland

[D.FYLAKTOS]