RicardoM

https://7zap.com/en/catalog/cars/Skoda/brand/17/0/Felicia/Felicia (1995 - 2001)/Skoda/bklPQXUrUjU1TXYrNHBpL3AyL1Jtdz09--/6bbffde8b5b8077d2d0a5796da6eea3c:11a95af795ef82641f2b96851e471ad7/manufacturer/8/101877000::877000

If it's not in German, most probably it is written by me.

No help from local experts right from the beginning? They are paid to know.

There is a short circuit between the blue wire of fuel sender and ground.

By looking at the photos, I see there was extensive damage on the board with numerous repairs. It is impossible to tell you what is wrong. ---------------------------------------------------------- Mirando las fotos, veo hubo grandes daños en la placa de circuito impreso con numerosas reparaciones. Es imposible decirte qué está mal.

You have to write in English You have to tell us exactly what type of Felicia you have

I don't use it for the last 5 years. Better mileage. Top speed 150 km/h. Only by removing the carburetor, cleaning it and recalibrate it.

We're talking two different things: the resistance of the potentiometer itself and the contact resistance between the wiper and the carbon track of the potentiometer. Cleaning the potentiometer will only help making good contact (1 ohm less at best) on the entire resistance of the potentiometer. However the cleaning will not solve the wear of the carbon track. On the other hand, I don't know where from is Autodata having the 'correct' values for the resistance of the TB positioner. Not to mention that in fact there are two potentiometer in there...

Now everything points to an idle fuel problem. It is a tricky one with a lot of IF's. I will list all possible issues: Vacuum leaks - everything below carburetor housing Bad fuel mixture - there is a screw to adjust it Clogged idle channels inside carburetor Dirty air/fuel emulsifier Bad fuel enrichment valve - remember that a rough idle can be a result of both too little or too much fuel Did I mention vacuum leaks? PS Here is a hint. When there is a vacuum leak, the sound of air entering the first stage of the carb is like a gurgling, choking noise. When good vacuum the sound is like a uniform kind of whistle.

Silly question, but worth asking. Did you put the high voltage leads correctly on the distributor cap? Show us a photo with distributor cap on, HV leads inserted and visible up to spark plugs.

Being sarcastic will not make you smarter. On the contrary. You don't have to be a genius like me 😎 to know basic things about electronics. Good school books will suffice.

At a predetermined opening of the throttle valve angle, the vacuum in the intake manifold decreases to such an extent that spring opens the enrichment valve. Because of this, additional fuel from the float chamber can be fed directly into the primary system (1st stage) via channels. In other words, the fuel enrichment valve helps with more fuel for the 1st stage of the carburetor. The 2nd stage of the carburetor helps developing maximum power/speed. If something prevents 2nd stage opening fully, then you can't achieve maximum power.

In your case it might not. Yet the cursor of any potentiometer rubs the carbon base leaving in time a groove and carbon powder inside. The most problematic areas are those where the cursor rubs most often: at idle and at cruise speed. That is hilarious, and I'm being gentle.

When mounting the thermostat, that piece should be up. The air trapped in the upper side can escape through that "hole".

When using the metallic rubberized gasket type, it is mandatory to ground the body of the carburetor (with the existing wire in all Felicias I've seen) otherwise the electromagnetic cutout valve will not open at idle.

How did you test there is no vacuum leak? What type of gasket did you use? Black one covered in rubber? Or metallic one with cardboard gaskets? What sealant did you use? On the distributor position issue: I hope that you agree the actual position of the distributor is wrong. Failing to admit it will not encourage me to give you more advice. I will never struggle for doing good against people's will... Read these topics entirely.

The main problem is still bad timing. It's not that I say so, but the factory manual says so. All Favorit/Felicia cars on carburetor that I worked on (over 50) have the timing and the distributor positioned as explained. It is YOUR problem that you still don't understand how to position the distributor correctly. The secondary issue, about bad idle, is 100% bad vacuum related. The carburetor is VERY sensitive to any vacuum leak. New third party gaskets are a mess. They are not perfectly flat on any side, or they are made of bad rubber, depending on gasket type. It took me a month of testing various gaskets and fastening solutions to finally find a reliable solution for getting a perfect vacuum in the intake manifold.

The reply was about brake fluid. As for the refrigerant, I gave the answer 15 days ago. Next time read carefully the entire topic.

What happens if you play with the accelerator pedal during rev-up ?

You mean right wheel.

As Wino said, the idle cutoff electromagnetic valve could have lost power supply. Other than that it could be a dirty emulsion tube.

Totally wrong. Not to mention there is no throttle body. It is a carburettor.

Hello I would like to know what problems I might face if I try to reset all adaptation values from Select -> Engine -> Basic Settings. The message after clicking Go! is rather scary. Please see photos below. I am working on a 1.4 TSI CAXA engine.

These are all flavors of Felicia special I know of. It would be nice to gather in this topic photos of each one of them and also what special characteristics they have. Active Arcane Atlanta Bergamote Bohemia Bonne Nuit Color Line Comfort Country Excelent Family Friend Fun Genua Grand Air Klif Lato Laurin & Klement Magic Mangas Milena Morzine Mystery Pacific Pack Palomino Perfekt Safe Line Saga Samba Space Line Sport Line Ste Maxime Tango Tipi Trend Trumf X-Line Yellix