RicardoM

It is obviously an intermittent open circuit issue. The copper tracks and the solder joints on the PCB are very fragile and very poor quality. They develop micro-cracks due to age, vibration or even slightly bending the PCB when connecting/disconnecting the connectors. The clock needs 12V continuously to work. You have to resolder all 3 connectors with fresh tin wire and flux. Then use a magnifying glass and an ohmmeter to trace for bad copper traces. PS. If the photo is from your car, it is a miracle the fuel gauge is still working. See the burnt 10 Ohms resistor.

I followed the wiring diagrams and a 12V power supply of course.

I think now you have enough information to DO something.

The old radiator is not for engines with AC. Flushing it is not the solution. As for the China radiator, each to his own pockets. I offered him both alternatives.

Concentrate in buying a PROPER radiator for Felicia with AC. Part number is 6U0121251C. Made in China: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6u0121251c-water-cooler-cn-26382.html Original part: https://www.cc-autodily.cz/chladic-felicia-1-3

I don't know if you can squeeze it in. Remember that all radiators have some sort of plastic shroud (frame) that guides the air better through radiator. Without it the cooling efficiency will be reduced.

Actually they did.

It is your conclusion. I don't know what thermostat you have now. Moreover, I gave you a list of possible reasons excluding things you MIGHT have solved. Again, you didn't provide enough information. I don't know what radiator you have now on the car. Remember we don't know your car while you have full access to it. If the car had AC from factory, the radiator is already bigger. If the AC was retrofitted, you need the radiator for Felicia 1.3 with AC.

In order to have a good cooling, the cooling system has to be in perfect condition. In your case that means: thermostat for tropical countries (87-82 C) bigger radiator for Felicia with AC radiator fan thermo-switch for tropical countries (87 C) coolant according to factory specifications sealed cooling system (no leaks) no debris inside cooling system Let's not forget also that the weather changed dramatically during summer. Felicia was designed in 1994 when temperatures were at least 5 C lower than today.

@whitemarina I am sure there are better ways to communicate your thoughts than using the urban dictionary slang.

Nothing to do with the throttle body unless it needs a calibration/reset. The sensation (which by the way is subjective and not backed up by any objective test and measurement) might be a result of a slipping clutch due to poor adjustment. Do a 0-100 km/h test run and compare the time with factory data.

If the donor car for the new instrument panel is a Skoda Felicia having the same engine (1.6) there are big chances to work plug & play. Not being sure what engine is on your car is not an encouraging sign though.

You know, people travel as they wish according to their personal interests. I have to provide enough money for my family. So I go working where I am paid best. If that made you lose sleep, I have one curiosity about residency too. Never found out why did England made citizens of sovereign countries on several continents residents of the British empire by force. Probably there were noble reasons involved that had nothing to do with their wealth...

Everybody jokes about Scottish people being cheap. Except in here. Don't be so *na*. http://www.rampantscotland.com/humour/blhumthrift.htm

I did. Yet sometimes people don't like the advice because it involves TIME, MONEY, and a lot of KNOWLEDGE that can't be "channeled" online. There are complex issues that can't be addressed as simple as changing a bulb. In such case people go to a car shop and PAY FOR A DIAGNOSE. Or if they are more knowledgeable and have the proper tools we advice them what to test. If we don't have the initial information to work with, any advice would be like picking blindly something from a LONG list of causes. Being stubborn in asking for a cheap fix doesn't help either, don't you think you should address that too? We are not doing miracles in this forum and in this case my intuition tells me the car is a lemon and finding the problem (as if always it has to be just one) bang on would be just pure luck and not reliable. Luck has nothing to do with a proper diagnose. At least not in my case. I have been always an advocate of finding the evidence of fault THEN changing the part(s). Otherwise I wouldn't be better than those part changers in car shops.

And you had the answer. Nobody can tell that blindly. Furthermore, auto mechanics is not about making miracles by replacing cheap parts but I've just noticed you're from Scotland so feel free to change any cheap part you like and tell us how it went. Then perhaps you will reconsider the absurdity of your questions and expectations.

You need EVIDENCE of fault before buying a part. In order to find the evidence, you need to have advanced skills to diagnose the engine. That is the most complex part of auto mechanics. You need knowledge and proper diagnose tools. You don't have them. We have them but we don't have access to your car. There is a limit of we can do on this forum. As for changing the oxygen sensor blindly, it's your money. Although I would be surprised the catalyst converter is not melted too after burning raw hydrocarbons in it for a long time. It's like you call a doctor on the phone and tell him you have a headache. He tells you there are many reasons for the issue but you need to do some specific detailed medical tests first. You say to him that you prefer to try a hip prosthesis instead. So go buy it. We'll talk later.

Forget about it. It is rubbish.

Basically the data says that the engine is running rich and there is an incomplete combustion. There are many possible reasons for that (fuel, ignition, and/or mechanical related). Without proper knowledge and proper diagnose tools you will shoot in the dark because you need evidence before changing parts. The minimum you can do is to check the spark plugs and the air filter.

Alan What exactly do you want to achieve? Just ask the questions in order. PS Pins 8, 9,10 of T10e connector for optional equipment are not used. No English searchable wiring diagrams or factory manuals. The numbers on the top rails are described in DIN72552 standard.

You'll have to understand how to read a wiring diagram. See the consecutive numbers at the bottom of the wiring diagram? The 'numbered boxes' point to a location in the diagram referenced by those numbers. For instance, terminal T6k3 points to 22. You look at the bottom where it is 22 and go vertically up to meet box 8. Why 8? Because box 22 started above number 8 on the bottom row. There is a page in the wiring diagrams that explains how to read them.

@J.R. Having strong convictions doesn't mean your reality is our reality too. But if it makes you feel better you did an exemplary job, dream on brother.

Watch these videos

It is one of those intermittent issues that all mechanics hate because they are hard to identify. The information was taken from service manual. Now, if I look closer the correct voltages are: 4.5 - 5V between pins 4, 7. It is the power supply send by the ECU to potentiometers. variable DC voltage between pins 5, 7 (range 1 - 4 V or so) when rotating the throttle valve variable DC voltage (but in opposition with above variation) between pins 8, 7 (range 1 - 4 V or so) when rotating the throttle valve