RicardoM

I need to know two things: what type of computer did you use? Simos 2P? the dashboard had a tachometer from factory ?

What type of injection engine you put on the car?

Use a dashboard from an injection engine.

Both the distributor dirty cap as the short lived coil are not normal. I can't say more unless I have the car in front of me for a thorough diagnose.

Yeah, I know that table since it is a part of the manual written by me about tuning the carburetor on Felicia/Favorit. Tips: after you'll find the highest vacuum using the mixture screw, unscrew it 1/2 turn more. That will help getting fast throttle response. engine tuning is a bit of an art. It is a combination of finding the right mixture, the right idle speed, and the right ignition advance.

I can't decide if it is a fuel issue or an ignition issue. Both could produce the same symptoms under load. I am more inclined towards a fuel starvation issue. You need to check the fuel pressure under load then injectors. Use VAG-COM.

How about telling us the whole story from A to Z instead of asking partial questions in various topics?

Could be many issues. Bad timing (distributor), low fuel pressure, bad coil, bad spark plugs. Show us a video of stuttering / misfiring.

If the set is a cheap Chinese replica, you will fail removing anything in the car. Those plastics only LOOK like the original tools, the quality is rubbish. That's the Chinese philosophy. Sell $hitty stuff cheap in big quantities.

Not really. No.

@Cuend@ A proper diagnose means scanning for stored errors then doing some tests to find the EVIDENCE for the fault. No matter how knowledgeable people on this forum are, nobody can tell you remotely what is wrong. The best we can say is that for sure there is not a faulty ECU. So it's not about the cost ('prize' as you say) but about finding a smart and honest mechanic (aka not a parts changer monkey). It is very possible they know exactly what the issue is (from previous similar cases) but they might want to take advantage of you coming with invented costly horror stories...

Note: Felicia didn't have rear power windows.

Might be possible. Not sure about the diodes though, they might be reversed since the pulses are positive. Try both ways.

I suspect you will get half of the real rpm on the gauge. Try it.

I didn't read anything saying the OP did all that. Instead we got a nice story about how easy it is to get a record mileage with AC on full blast. Give me a break...

I find the figure wrong. It is impossible to get such mileage unless there was wind blowing hard from the rear or you drove downhill or behind a large lorry. It is just physics.

They might be right, considering the poor quality of Superb compared to its high price. They know it better. You didn't when you bought it.

It is not about where to inject the signal to make it work. It is about how compatible is the rpm signal from 6N2 with Felicia rpm signal. I have no reference on 6N2. IIRC the VW Polo 6N2 is using a CANbus communication which is totally different from Felicia bus communication.

Well, you are testing the resistance of the injector when it is not actually working. Moreover the current of your multimeter is way way lower than the actual current used for firing it. It is another thing when the injector is fired and it is exposed to high heat and vibrations. A proper diagnose involves using an oscilloscope and "reading" the waveform on injector under load. What I mean is that an injector might look well as a coil resistance but it will fail under load. In your case the #1 injector might work 'well' on idle but fail on higher rpm. Remember I can't be 100% sure because I haven't seen a firing waveform as shown below for a generic reference.

Code 01249 is "open circuit/short to positive" or "short to ground" on #1 injector. Test wiring then if nothing found replace the injector. The stuttering you described might be fuel starvation related from #1 injector faulty.

...

Any error codes stored after the last test drive?

It is a typical issue of any type of carburetor. The fuel vapors create a very rich mixture while the engine is stopped in hot weather. That mixture can't ignite. As soon as the vapors clear off, you're good. I recommend flooring the throttle pedal easy before starting the engine, cranking a while (5-6 seconds) , stopping, waiting for 5 seconds, releasing the pedal, cranking again. It helps also if the cooling system works perfectly and the engine is not overheat before stopping the car. The wave of heat in summer across Europe started to make mandatory a thermostat and a radiator fan thermo-valve for tropical countries.