Gabbo

My TDI consumes ~ 0.75L per 20k km. I do around 30-35k a year & usually have the low oil warning once between the normal service intervals. 1L in 5k would seem excessive but perhaps the first reading was not really full? In the past, I've had one similar situation to this where I drove 2.5k km over 3 days on a summer road trip when it was fairly new. The outside temperature was hot (~35°) & the car spent the whole day on the highway at 120-130kph. I had not checked the oil level before the trip but it was only a few weeks after the service so "should" have been full. After topping up, I had no further problems afterwards. I cannot say whether it really consumed a lot of oil or if it wasnt completely fully after the service. I always check now, before I drive away from the garage that the dipstick is at the top & the oil is clean rather than sooty.

The location says Turkey (the european MIB map pack includes turkey): Available from the update portal here (28Gb download): https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/HIGH12_P330_EU_202322.zip

This seems to give a huge loophole in the "used approved" status - only the last owner.?? You can take any car, register it to the someone, service at an approved garage & gain "used approved" status despite never servicing it in the last x years..

I had the waterpump changed by Skoda because of the known component problem & asked for the belt at the same time. At the time they told me it was done but now 120k km later they are telling me there is no record of the belt change in the "online records". I'm a bit peevd at beeing asked to pay 500€ to change the belt now & will probably change the water pump again for the same reason.

If it is "Skoda approved used", shouldnt any open TSBs against the car be applied before it could be sold with this status?

As you need to remove the belt anyway to replace the water pump, it should only be the price of the part extra? Probably worth getting it done now rather than an expensive belt change later?

I have a 2014 vRS TDi and the dipstick min line to max is around 1L I think. My low oil warning usually triggers about when it reaches the min line on the dipstick. Meaning there should still be ~ 4L of oil still in the engine when the warning triggers. If I add between 0.75L it will move it close to the max line. Im always careful not to overfill but I guess it would take closer to a litre I find the dipstick on the VW engines hard to read & often require 2 or 3 wipe/dip/read before I'm confident of the reading. The correct oil should have a list of compatible OEM part numbers written on the label (e.g. VW507 00 VAG, Renault Xx xxx, Peugeot Yy yyy etc) As suggested by toot, you need the VW507 spec oil for the TDI.

Are you sure it's not just a broken button? It's quite unlikely that a Skoda garage or Halfords would change the configuration of your car during a normal service. Is there no way to access the driving mode menu through the infotainment?

If you give some more information about the previous thread from ApertureS & your car details you are more likely to get a reply. Had it always been like this, has it occurred recently etc

In the end it can't hurt to try, I would give them the details & that it was bought from a main skoda dealer, services directly at a main skoda dealer. A small contribution from them won't break the bank & would make a big difference to your satisfaction with the brand & likelihood to buy Czech again in the future

If I remember right, it was an attempt at a cost saved part with plastic sleeve which would stick as it expanded at a different rate from cold than the metal parts. The replacement was with a metal sleeve so it really was a known defective design, hence Skoda offering 50-100% of the costs at the time.

I can confirm that this is a normal price in an AMAG (vag) garage in Switzerland! A standard service is around 350chf and a major service around 600chf... I've been quoted this twice for my Octavia when they try to convince me to get it done early. The quotes are all fully itemized & you will pay vag prices for every screw, bolt, o ring, gasket etc Those who can often take their cars to France or Germany for work because they usually offer fixed price services for cars over 3 years old like in the UK.

15% discount seems reasonable to aim for based on my experience of UK & Switzerland but it really depends on the time, market, supply etc At the end of the day, they'll always be someone who tells you they got a better deal than you or a better spec for the same money. They way I think about it, as long as you do a bit of research & are happy with what you get for what you paid, it's not worth to lose sleep over paying too much. 1000€ over ten years is less than 30p a day & nothing compared to the enjoyment you'll get from a new car that you chose & specd exactly as you want

The mk4 superb will be announced in a couple of months & so probably around the beginning of next year the dealers will want to get rid of their demonstrators to make way for the new mk4. Might be a few good deals around on low mileage demonstrators. New Car buying in the UK is really stressful I found. Different dealers have different targets. Some will give you a great price on the phone, others will give you nothing until they think you're ready to pull the trigger because they don't want you going elsewhere to ask for some more off. In Switzerland it's much more standard for new cars. Most companies have deals with the main franchises & you get between 15%-18% discount from the list price. You can go to 3 different dealers & the price they'll give you will be identical & best you can hope for is 99chf off. Full tank of fuel, mats etc are standard so no chance to get suprised when you pick it up.

At the time a few years ago Skoda were offering at least 50% goodwill payment for those out of warranty. Check the pinned thread. I think it would be worth to contact Skoda UK as based on the mileage of your car & manufacturing date it would fit with the water pump fault. Did the garage also replace the timing belt when they changed the pump? 60k miles is early but it doesn't add any real cost to the work as it must be removed anyway as I understand.

Does the sound get worse as you go faster? E.g. At 60/80/100kph/120kph/160kph?

Thanks everyone! My Octavia had been a bit neglected the last few years so I'm giving ita bit of much needed TLC. Ordered a boot lip protector as well to protect against those trips to the IKEA/DIY store...

Thanks, I've just ordered a replacement set. If I remember right from another thread, you just click the new ones into place without loosening the retaining clips?

My Octavia estate is almost 10 years old & the tailgate struts are getting stiff. They still work but often need a small push to get them to lift all the way. It's there a simple way to refurb them, lubricating the pistons? Or is it easier to just replace them? Fitting seems like a 2 minute job and aftermarket replacements are petty cheap. These are the OEM manufacturer I believe so would be £25 for a set: Stabilus LIFT-O-MAT 285866 Gas Spring 540 Newton https://amzn.eu/d/dnm7HOy

Also worth to check the invoice for what oil they used so you can check they reset the oil interval correctly too. If I remember right 504 is normal life oil (oil reset time is 365 days). 507 is long life oil with a variable service interval which should be reset to 730 days. Depends how often you want to change the oil but I've used variable service interval from the beginning & am at 250km without issues on my TDI 184 although I do high yearly mileage ~35k km

This brought a smile to my face! This is my only disappointment with the Octavia that the fuel tank was so small. I've been chasing but never been brave enough to reach 1000km from my Octavia. It was a small part of the decision to go for a superb this time. Looking forward to see what I can manage.

Don't know the details of the fixing bolts but when I've ordered nonOEM wheels previously from PneuExperte.ch (reifen.com) they've always come with an additional set of fixing bolts. Providing you stick with a compatible wheel, you can always use the existing bolts with the new wheels. Out of interest, what wheels are you looking at? (I'm still open for ideas).

70bhp is a big difference but it depends what kind of driving you do & how often you would drive very aggressively or with a fully laden car. I agree with cnc, the 1.6tdi is a great engine if you are looking for a smooth cruise & excellent fuel economy. However, given the price is the same & it sounds like you're prefer performance over economy, the 2l sounds like your best bet. As petrolcan suggests, the cambelt & brake service with also save you some dollars in the future.

Remember the main contributor to fuel economy is the driver. Whilst some may be able to achieve impressive figures you should have an idea what kind of driver you are & your typical usage. 45mpg from a 2L tdi would seem around the average. I would be expecting >50mpg from any kind of diesel. Are there any fuel logging websites around these days like Fuelly? This was useful when I got my Octavia as you could see the logged data of multiple users filtered by car/engine/body style/transmission etc

After looking again at the technical datasheets, I am correct that the centerbore is different. 57.1 for the ECE approved V. 72.5 for the ABE approved Y. The Y needs a mounting kit with a centering-ring like below: https://wildkrist.com/Anbaukit-5207 So this is the reason it doesn't have the ECE certification as this requires identical centerbore & borbet don't make different versions of the Y for different OEMs rather just a one size fits all.