Crasher

The usual difference between left and right hand traffic is the third digit of the first group, even for right hand traffic and odd for left hand traffic.

16706 (P0322) - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal Has the wiring been pinned from the plug to the ECU? You can take some solace from the fact this happens to all of us, I am having a sketch with a low milage randomly stuttering 2015 Polo 1.4i that came in completely underivable in limp mode with throttle pedal and throttle body fault codes plus one for the cam position sensor. We fitted a genuine new throttle pedal which cleared those codes and left it driving better but still going into limp mode occasionally for the TB, then a Febi throttle body which stopped the limp mode totally. Then the ECU which cured the cam sensor code which left me with a random stutter so coil packs, MAP sensor and plugs all to no avail, I even put Shell V Power and injector cleaner in; now it leaves no codes or measuring block clues (apart from a matching MAP dip) to its totally random occurrences. All compressions are 17.8 Bar, the timing is perfect, I have run it lambda (for some reason Basic Settings 099 will not work) and knock disconnected and pressure tested using the VAG test kit. My instinct says a sticky injector (possibly valve guide) but which one?

It is the same with the BXE rod failure, done lots of preventative bearing changes (removing some VERY worn upper shells), but never actually seen one stick it’s neck out the block.

We see huge numbers of these engines and I have yet to see this problem

The 12 year factory warranty is for inside out perforation, not surface rust and if that work was done by a non VAG body shop then they would refuse anyway. The only solution is back to bare metal to expose the original zinc with chemical stripping, then sanding and chemically removing the rust (Bilt Hamber deox gel is excellent) probably three times and then treat the area, (Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80) to prevent rerusting, then a coat of zinc (Bilt Hamber Electrox) extending into the original zinc plating. Then a standard etch primer filler, base coat and clear process. You could do the knocking back and pre primer treatments above yourself and then have the panels professionally painted. The knocking back and treatments will need to extend right back around the inside of the arch (liner out) and behind the bumper by the look of it.

It is inside the mech [url=https://flic.kr/p/2nTQUvo][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52438867976_7f74dc6ef7_4k.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2nTQUvo]Untitled[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/141203253@N03/]Steve Cresswell[/url], on Flickr

There is no Monroe listing for that OE number, in Tec Doc the only mainstream brand listed is a Boge 30-R73-A which is a ZF brand as was the original. For Skoda it is only listed for the Octavia III, mainly the estate The Monroe 376195spt is a replacement for a huge list of VAG OE part numbers but not your original OE number Reference info 5Q0513029AS 5Q0513029BK 5Q0513029CJ 5Q0513029CK 5Q0513029CM 5Q0513029EB 5Q0513029EC 5Q0513029EK 5Q0513029EL 5Q0513029ER 5Q0513029ES 5Q0513029ET 5Q0513029FA 5Q0513029GM 5Q0513029GN 5Q0513029GR 5Q0513029HH 5Q0513029HQ 5Q0513029HR 5Q0513029JE 5Q0513029NQ 5WA513029AN 8V0513029 8V0513029AC 8V0513029F 8V0513029H 8V0513029J

This can happen with the drums when the auto adjuster is set too tight, wheels off the deck drag comparison is easy

I can tell you from the VIN. Visually if you look from the inside at an angle and focus on the glass itself you can just make out the very thin vertical wiggly lines a few mm apart running right across the screen.

This can be a sign of a crack forming in the accumulator mounting. We saw this on a Leon 3 a few months ago and advised the owners to get the Mechatronic replaced as they depended on the car as he was very poorly. We ordered a new one which is a Vehicle Intelligent Part ordered to VIN and has to be paid for when ordering (and cannot be cancelled or retuned from the moment of ordering) and it took so long to arrive that we installed it around two months after he passed away! Thankfully the Mech held out through the trauma his widow had to deal with.

The chip is one time only, a new one can be programed in with the dealer system ODIS and there are some aftermarket system locksmiths use. The remote control can be programed in with VCDS.

Yes, I was doing one last week in ODIS and it popped up a message that I needed a minimum 20 litres of fuel to start a service regeneration.

@AndyNF What is the VIN?

The Octavia 1U just seems to have been better built, definitely less rust prone and more reliable, the PQ34 platform was much less expensive to maintain than the following PQ35 used under the Octavia 1Z, mainly due to the overly complex rear suspension. The Passat 98>05 was on the Audi A4 8D platform then in 2005 went onto a modified Golf 5 PQ35 platform called PQ46.

Did the front lifter on an Octavia 3 today, bloody rivets!

The Octavia 1U was a brilliant version of the PQ34 platform, more so than the Golf 4.

04087 doesn't come up, the G28 is directly behind the flywheel, was a new crank oil seal fitted?

It is complex, so more so than others. Say take a 2021 Carrot like yours but with one of the five different systems, say one of the three single dosing (there are two twin dosing versions) systems "Exhaust gas treatment system For vehicles with selective catalytic reduction (SCR) 4-wheel drive with PR:1E9+4BF, 7CP" This has a "close coupled" Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC) after the turbo followed by a reductant injector which has a Diesel Particulate Filter below (with combined EGR cooler) and into a Selective Catalytic Reduction catalyst under the car. I have been doing this for 42 years and to be honest it is getting too much, Frankenstein technology. This stuff is EU6, EU7 will be MUCH worse.

He was lucky with that one, many are riveted instead of bolted and they are a pain to drill out

There are various reasons, miss fuelling with petrol, injector failure, remapping, EGR delete, adblue problems and... they just do. We had a none AdBlue Scirocco come in which would hardly drive, the DOC/DPF was melted and the NOX cat underneath cracked, the cause was the Air Mass Meter.

A common failure, when we encounter this (often) we get DPF Clean Team in Hinckley to source us a good and cleaned/tested by them used unit, rather good used than aftermarket.

I have replaced the one in my 1U AUQ engine three times in 17 years and 80k miles, always with genuine. The one in Mrs Crashers Polo 9N GTI failed at 30k miles.

The 1.8T wherever it is used in known for stuck open thermostats causing lambda issues due to the ECU responding to the lower coolant temperature by adding fuel.

When the gauge all of a sudden shoots up to FSD at 117, the alarm goes off and you **** yourself

Ignore what VAG temp gauges say, it still reads 90 at 166 and then shoots up at 1117... daft!