Murdockman

Bit of a silly question does anyonr know if you can get replacement nuts for the track rod end pins,mine are very rusty but the actual joint looks good the car is a 2019 1.0 tsi nj5 model 110bhp tried dealers they want me to buy new joints and not sure about ebay joints if the nuts would fit from different makes can get the inner bigger nut but nothing about the track rod end nut they look like a top hat type and must be self locking I would think

If when you had the cambelt changed they used a genuine vw belt pulleys and tensioner the belt is good for 90.000 miles ,but normally most places use a pattern belt and you are lucky to get 60.000 out of these if you know the belt was genuine no problem but if pattern one myself would get it changed,sometimes you can search vw dealers ebay or skoda parts .com horton skoda and places like that and get a belt kit at a great price and then use a garage to get it done, i remeber buying a pump and correct coolant that was genuine vw at a really good price from a vw dealer in Cardiff new old stock the extended mileage is only for the genuine belts but sometimes the pump fails, so 90.000 is usually the best time to change

Know issues wth the front windows are weak motors but the biggest issue with these are the runners in the door frame they dry out and cause the window to be very sticky and then fail to open or close the motor set up thinks it's a safety issue and stop working, WD 40 is not recommened but a silicon spray will help by spraying into the grooves back and front but you do need to try and get the window open, you can if all fuses are ok then get someone to press the switch to open the window and yourself have the door open and clasp each side of the window and when they press the winow down try pushing the glass down at he same time, if nothing happens the next try are the switches and see if they are getting power, if not it might be the wiring loom connection on the front door to car plug there are posts on here how to remove this connection clean and refit, last resort you will have to remove the door panels and motor mechanism this also is known to corrode and sieze up also there are posts on here and you tube how to do ths job, I found this a great help when swapping a front door that was damaged and replaced all my gear into the replacement door

Depends on your exact model of car and what engine you have , some use 10/40 some use this type 5/30 and some use 0/20 as lomg as it's the correct oil for your car you can use this for topping up or adding to an oil change oil does not "go off " if kept in tidy conditions

Body work is usually good on these models but check the rear hatch around the bottom they do rust, also check inside boot in the spare wheel area know water leaks from vents under bumper and rear light clusters check internal mats for damp known water leaks from door internal seals, one problem thay seems to happenen on a lot of models is the drivers side rear door not locking or is locked and won't unlock electrics can also be an issue so check everything works as it should, engine wise it's coming near to a cam belt change which can be expensive as water pump and coolant needs replaceing along with belt and new adjusters at, if you can get at the egr pipe check the inside as a know carbon bulid up inside causes problems watch for water/coolant loss or excessive whiteish smoke from exhaust as some of these models suffer from air line cracks in the head doesn't effect performance but looses water over say 500 miles thid is an quite an expensive fix other know problems are turbo issues usually from sticky turbo vanes or a faulty actuator on the turbo mostly shows up with a lck of boost in higher gears

This happened to a friend and all he had done was put a led bulb in the glovebox he changed it back to a standard bulb and it started working again, he did buy a spare headlight switch but to this day i don't think he used it, why this happened and how this cured it only the gods will know

No your fluid would not have been changed on a service unless you asked for it to be done this i have found out myself from prevoius services from dealerships they should do it but don't, to be honest unless you have done mega miles and done hard stops every day or live in a rain forest 5 years is about the time to look at changing the fluid, can be done yourself or garage would do this but be prepared some places sting you and say it needs pads shoes discs etc or in one case they told my mate he needed a new set of calipers as the bleed screws were rusted in, but after a quick release spray they came out (replaced tem with stainless steel ones) much much cheaper than new calipers, did the fluid change for him as well new fluid new bleed screws all done for a couple of beers he was happy and I was to

Does sound like the fuse issue as mentioned you could also check the brake light switch by disconnecting the wires/plug and see if the lights go out that's how we always tested these type of switches before they moved to the brake pedal type

On my old MK2 Fabia facelift type you need to remove the small blank thats next to the fog light blank these take a bit of brut force to pull out but found it a bit easier if you first spray some Mr Sheen around the edges of the blank, some blanks are the whole fog light shape some are a smaller type and when the small blank you have just pulled out comes out you can get your hand in behind the fog light blank and push from behind,again Mr Sheen will help you get these out they can be a pain if you do have the full type sort they need to come out from the centre first and then pull out from near the edge of the wing depends on your model and year

When I changed mine I rember buying them from Amazon I think it was around £5 for the 3 they were T30 Torx button head stainless screws they were a bit long but cut them down no problem i think if i had taken more time i could hav got the correct size from Ebay

You would be surprised how much a decent service woiuld make to your car just replacing filters and cleaning can improve MPG, you might also try a good fuel injector cleaner but suggest you do this before changig the fuel filter, if as you said the previous owner only used the car for short trips it might be an advantage to take a few motorway trups and hold the car in 4th gea so engine is reving a bit more than in 5th gear to give it a good clear out, this might be worth doing before taking it to a VW specalist as it just might save you a load of money

The only way to eliminate the fuel question is to run it as low as possable then fill up with Shell or BpP diesel, a friend had a simular issue with the 1.9 TDI and it was a faulty relay for the pre heat glow plugs in cold weather they stay on a bit longer when car has started but his were cutting off to soon thus engine was a bit reluctant to run correctly, it would start no priblem and was ok when warmed up a bit and thoughout the warmer months but soon as the cold weather started it had this slight judder as if you needed a bit more choke on a petrol car he replaced the relay and that seemed to sort out the issue, might not be either of these probems but gives you a start to try and sort it out, just an after thought have a look at the air filter hoses and look at he valve that allows the hot air from exhaust to enter the filter housing sometimes these stick open and is always allowing cold air into housing again worth a look at good luck

Make sure now you have the door open to spray WD or something like that into the lock in question it does seem like that the pivot pin is either rusty or sticking and not returning correctly thus giving you this problem, spray it into the lock where the door lock part where the door catch is , I do this om mk3 once every month just to keep it free

One of the handles should open the door as there are 2 cables attatched to the lock the most common issue is the lever that latches onto the bar inside the door opening is stuck or corroded, have you tried banging the lock part of the handle outside with the palm of hand and then trying to open the doopr ? if this doesn't work you have to wind the windows down and try spraying wd 40 straw type at the rear of the lock nearest the outside of the door panel and keep trying to pull outside and inside handles I also made a small round bar about 12 inches long with a slightly bent up piece around 1 inch fed it into the door turned it so the bent bit was facing inside the car and managed to pull up the lever that was stuck and got the door open, I then removed the panel and took the lock out after disconnecting the outer door and inner door handles and connections if you take a look on you tube there are a few helpful vids that might help you this was the case for me, after va good clean and re grease the lock never failed again

Do yourself a favour check all leads for tighness and make sure they are clean, a friend had this issue and it was the 12v low current supply to the starter not the big red cable the smaller cables they were corroded after a clean up no issues, the only way you can really check a bad battery is a "drop test" where the put a connection on both terminals of the battery and get a read out of the battery condition but most batteries after about 5 years start to fail, bought my battery from a company call Batterycharger .co.uk a Yuasa 7000 battery from Halfords £174 and you have to go and get it ought it from this company £84-75 delivered came well packed no issues same battery over half the price can't go wrong they also sell other makes at great prices

This model normally has the timing chain fitted, you can see if you look at the engine left hand side looking from the front what type of cover is on the +motor, plastic type belt, alloy top chain but to be 100% sure find the engine code in the log book and enter that code into a Google search then you will be sure it's correct. Timing chains on these models can have issues with adjusters etc but the biggest issue is oil service and filter changes and using the correct type and quality of oil, you mention it's been dealer serviced but trust me that's not always a givem fact and have seen many so called services carried out by so called technicians only to find that the work has never been done correctly in the first place seems to be a issue with women who own cars and use dealerships just saying from expeience

Have a look on the bay I bought a pair of new ones for my old MK2 fabia a while ago they were £30 for the pair if I remember and you replace the whole unit it's like a raw plug shape pushed into the seat, also try a main dealers sometimes they sell things like this really cheap it's worth a try I don't think you can just replace the button bit but not 100% sure about that

As Breezy_pete said, chain driven, should be ok with that milage as long as oil and filter was changed at least once a year, mostly if adjuster has worn or oil change not done the chain will be noisy and a bit rattly something you might want to gt sorted soonerhan later but if no rattle noise fine just keep oil and filter service up to date and use decent oil or recomened Longlife oil, my MK2 Fabia oil and filter changed every year wit a genuine VW filter and longlife oil engine did 125,ooo changed cam belt and pump with genuine kit and coolant at recommened 96000 mile interval , car is no more written off but a friend had the 1.9 TDI motor and is now on 169000 miles only job he has had to do is swap the turbo actuator the old one developed a fault

Watch out for the hot pipes around the filter and then you will need a 32mm socket a long extension and ratchet or bar, I also used a swivel knucke adaptor that was in the socket set to allow a more upright position on the bar but you do not have to use this,you need to then unscrew top of housing right off and remove by putting your hnd under the pipes and a little wiggle will get it out, have a rag ready uder the housing as it will leak oil out due to the position you have the filter cap and filtet, don't forget to change both rubbers on the cap and give the housing on the car a wipe out before refitting

That's very good, most batteries these days only last around 5-7 years and funny you posted this a friend who bought a Nissan Juke brand new in 2020 has just had to replace his, my MK3 Fabia battery was not dead nor anyway near it but a few times it gave me a suspect nod that I could be in trouble, new battery from Skoda £164 stop start type, Halfods quoted me £174 for a

Just replaced my battery on my mk3 stop start Halfords price for a Yuasa type battery with 5 year warrranty £170, used a company called Battery Charger UK same battery delivered free £84 70 same warranty 5 years had many other sorts Duracell Exide and some makes I have not heard of all various wananties but well worth a look, battery arrived in a well packed sealed bag/box not issue at all very pleased with the service and could not believe the price

Quite possable but one of the main faults with the rear lights are the corroded connections to the cluster, mainly caused by broken felt type seal that's behing the whole plastic light cluster, that allows damp into the area and can cause a bulb blow, theae clusters some times come out easy but can be a real pain there is a large plastic screw in the centre of eackh cluster that has to come out it's then a matter of wiggling and rattling the unit out there is a clasp type grip right at the top of the light there is no fixing screw but is pushed in to a type od clip so pulling it out is hard but it will come out, you can then check all the bulbs and connections make sure that the earth wire is doing t's job I found silcon grease a benifit when putting it vack helped to seal the light plus kept the gasket in place

I would think this might be the same sort of job that I did on my MK2 Fabia but it was a diesel, the pump is under the rear seat pad so you need to remove both pads first then peel offf the stick pad thing to get at the pump in the tank, I used a large bluntish screwdriver to loosen the top ring that holds the pump in, carefully remove alll pipes clips and connections a photo is handy to look at when you need to replace, I found it beter to run the fuel level down a bit before starting this job if you are able, it's not to involved and will save you quite a bit by doing it yourself as you can purchase a new pump from where you like not get stung by main dealer prices, mine was a used unit but in excellent condition the old unit kept air locking for some reason but culd not find out why

Had a simular fault on my old MK2 1.9, never showed any faults but as you said power would be down with no logical reason, went through normal steps but nothng seemed to respond,, then one day the engine light came on and fault showed up as turbo overpressure so ecu went into limp mode but then came out but performance still not right, it turned out to be a faulty actuator on the turbo and was slightly sticking and although turbo was boosting it ws was not enough, i bought a new actuator from the bay £50 odd fitted it and the cars full power returned back to normal, I also changed the top and bottom rubber boost pipes to the intercooler as they looked a bit scraggy