langers2k

Follow the "current draw diag.pdf" I posted earlier in this thread... In short, fool the door/bonnet open sensors, lock the car and wait two hours, check the mV over each fuse to confirm the current draw

We should get a batsignal for @Rustynuts at some point To the OP, you can either PM him or if you use an @ symbol before typing someones name, they should get a notification they've been mentioned (as above).

That's only valid for vehicles with stop-start technology. Looking at the scan, I'm pretty sure this Yeti doesn't have stop-start so it's both impossible and not necessary to recode after battery replacement

That's very very low for the battery. I'd start by getting it charged and ideally tested, if it's a cheaper brand it maybe faulty. If you want to trace a battery drain, you should follow the VW instructions that I've attached. Yes. Yes - I can't remember which they are but I think they are both in the engine bay fuse box? Guide to load/volt testing wires: Current draw diag.pdf

The 37: Navigation errors are nothing to do with the 03: ABS issues as it's most likely to be a corroded roof antenna For me, the most interesting fault code is: 00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent That suggests the ABS module is unexpectedly losing power: - check the ABS connectors (plug and socket) are clean and correctly connected - I'd probably replace both ABS fuses to rule out corrosion or micro fractures, check the fuse board connectors are clean and tight - if it continues, load test all power and ground connections to the ABS module and check for any obvious chaffing

I think it's these two screws to start with, then the painted outer case should come off. Just be careful of the plastic clips near each screw.

It to let air in to the jumbo box from the AC system 😉 If I remember correctly, you can either heat or cool it.

A breakers or scrap yard with a few crashed vRS' would be the cheapest place for the interior/exterior parts and suspension/brakes. You can also check eBay and similar? A dealer could sell you new parts but I'd expect this to be very very expensive. A remap would need doing by a decent local tuner.

I'd probably start by putting the original BCM and steering control modules back in. 1) I think there is an adaption channel to specify where the steering angle sensor is, possibly in 03 ABS or 44 steering assistance. 2) I'd agree it's likely wiring given the tell tail works. Check T52aa/5 and T52ac/46 on the BCM go the left and right main beam bulbs. 3) The 16 steering controller coding is definitely wrong, maybe try 0000034 as that might get CC back - the ABS issue could also cause this. 4) This is down to the 09 BCM coding, byte 14, bit 0 should be 1 to enable front fogs. 5) Check the blower fan is free to move? 6) You need to pair both remotes. VCDS can do this but not sure about OBDeleven.

Easiest and cheapest way is to sell it and buy a vRS It depends in what way you want it to be like a vRS though. Obvious options: - exterior styling (front/rear bumpers, spoiler, alloys etc) - interior styling (seats, steering wheel etc) - remap, suspension and brake upgrades to 'match' vRS performance

The op has not been online since they made that post. As mentioned above, you should start by getting the car scanned for fault codes as that should give some clues 🙂

Not all countries get the option in the maxidot. VCDS or a dealer said be able to change the adaption channel.

Turn off travel mode either via the maxidot or the AFS master adaption channel.

I think they are pretty much the same as the Octavia. In which case, the mirror comes off first. Then there are two screws and clips holding the coloured outer case on which can be tricky. Then two more screws and clips holding the indicator. Due to the screws, I don't think the credit card method with get you anywhere...

There are lots of fake and low quality xenon bulbs on the market. If you didn't buy a reputable brand from an authorised reseller, they could just be dodgy bulbs

An MFD2 is not a Columbus... A Columbus would be an RNS-510

That's because it's not actually a relay despite being described as one. A better description is a canbus translator/convertor? It has two can bus connections, one that speaks can 1.6 to the car and one that speaks can 2.0 to the headunit. It translates the messages from one to the other. It just happens to be the same form factor as a standard relay but the function/pins are completely different.

Just completed the above on my MK2 FL Elegnace and wanted to add what I'd learnt. Early FL Elegances came with electric folding as standard but this appears to have changed in around 2010. This means that my MY12 was missing them... It did however have puddle lighting and therefore the correct door modules to support folding mirrors: Address 42: Door Elect, Driver - Part No SW: 1T0 959 701 AA Address 52: Door Elect, Pass. - Part No SW: 1T0 959 702 S If your FL Octavia has the above modules all you need is wing mirrors (with electric motors) and a mirror switch with the folding position. A passenger side mirror came up on eBay with a memory module for reverse dip. Fitting was easy enough: - Remove door card (maybe four screws?) - Remove trim behind the mirror - Disconnect mirror loom and undo one screw to release the mirror from the door - Fit new mirror! - Recode the door module for folding mirrors (if reverse dip is also being fitted, the BCM also needs coding) - Check it works (VCDS output test) - Reassemble the door Sourcing a drivers side mirror was proving much harder and the dealer price is ~£240. Fortunately, Eddie-NL came to the rescue as he had a spare LHD passenger mirror (with motor) which is the same side as a RHD drivers mirror that I needed. This presented it's own problems as the angles are different to accommodate the differing drivers positions in RHD or LHD cars. Stripping both mirrors down and removing the circlips showed a simple solution. The base which attach the mirror to the car set the angle so by swapping the LHD base with the RHD base from my car all was good. I've attached a couple of pictures to show the differences between passenger/drivers bases and motorised/manual folding mechanisms. Just as a word of warning, removing the circlips can be quite a task, even more so on the manual version as the spring fitted is much stronger. With the help of a vice and patience it is possible to get them out and back in again. Fitting the drivers side was pretty much the same as the passengers side with a couple of extra screws. To get it working from the remote I needed to redo the min/max limits for all windows and fold/unfold the mirrors a couple of times with the engine running. The final issue was that the puddle lights did not illuminate when the mirrors were folded (worked normally when unfolded).Turns out this is part of the door mirror EEPROM and can be changed via ODIS-e or VCP (not VCDS). It's a ten minute job to reprogram the two door modules and now I have puddle lights regardless of mirror position. I have no idea what the stock behaviour is so if anyone with factory fitted electric folding mirrors with puddle lights can let me know the stock behaviour that would be great! Bases: Mirror castings: