langers2k

Glad you found it! Hopefully the replacement goes well and you can finally get the code cleared

Given nobody can locate it, have you considered trying a Skoda dealer? They should be able to use erwin against your VIN to find exactly where it should be located... The only video I found is for a MK5 Golf. It should be similar to the Octavia, at least it seems to match the description in the workshop manual:

The vag dpf app reporting 100% or 24g is not a problem... The dpf is not full of soot at this point and no immediate action is needed. Unless the car starts illuminating warning lights, the driver shouldn't need to try and cause a regen by extending their drive or any other method. Don't get me wrong, it's certainly a useful tool but if the car is healthy and behaving normally, just leave it to do its thing! It'll ask for help when it needs to...

The German is Modularer Infotainment Baukasten which loosely translates as Modular Infotainment Platform/Toolbox.

Which one? The one Weyland fitted is certainly described as "dynamic trajectory" and aliexpess link states "It will read the command from CANBUS system of Car Computer and control the camera on/off and parking line moving". I expect their steering wheel was straight when they took the picture, if you ask I'm sure they can add some more pictures showing the fully functionally The OEM one I fitted definitely shows dynamic/moving guide lines, it can do all four modes mentioned in the owners manual: - traverse parking - parallel parking - driving up to a trailer / distance monitoring - monitor the area behind the vehicle (wide view) Quick picture showing the lines having moved:

The graph I posted is specifically about soot load and regeneration. That's why it has little wiggly lines showing the soot level dropping If the filter becomes overloaded with soot, it's no longer safe to regenerate and the filter will need replacing - this happens at ~45g. That's why the warning lights will come on at various soot levels to warn the driver something before it hits 45g. It's completely separate to the unburnable oil ash that accumulates over time, That's the developer of the VAG DPF app showing how close to an active regeneration you are, not overall soot load. If you check the measuring blocks of the ECU, you will only find the soot load in g, the percentage figure shown does not exist

That's simply not true. This below graph is taken from a VW SSP (self study program), it shows the car will try and perform an active regen above 18g of soot with a limit of 45g before it's too full to regenerate, that's about 40% 'full'. Even if you consider 24g as a sensible limit (that's when the car will ask for driver intervention) it's still only 75% 'full'.

There is a guide here: First post is from Weyland about an aftermarket camera. Second post is from me about an OEM highline camera. Both were DIY installations though

You can probably get an aftermarket one for around £40 or an OEM one for around £75. You might want to take a look at the thread in the Octavia section as both styles are shown:

The OP said they wanted silver bulbs not clear, probably something similar to these: https://www.philips.co.uk/c-p/12496SVB2/silvervision They look silver/chrome when off but emit the normal orange when on, pretty sure the Philips ones are also ECE approved which is nice. I'm not familiar with the Kamiq so I'm not sure how to replace them I'm afraid, if you haven't already, I'd start by checking the owners manual

Nice guide, shame you didn't write it two days ago when I started fitting my camera As I did a few things differently, I'll add some extra info as it might help others. I used an OEM/original high camera from AiDU Auto on aliexpress. At time of writing they offered: - a highline kit for the MK3 Octavia at ~£75 - a highline kit with washer jet for a Tiguan also at ~£75 After a quick chat, they were happy to parameterise the Tiguan kit with an Octavia file so I bought the Tiguan kit. Given they were the same price/size/shape it seemed daft not to get the bonus washer jet Unfortunately, the washer jet pipe was slightly too short but I was able to remove the fittings on either end and use some PVC washer hose (4mm ID, 6mm OD) of the right length instead. I took a slightly different cable route, shown in yellow: Unlike the kit above, it's not 'plug and play' so you end up with a bunch of wires that need to be connected to the appropriate places. The cables are pre-terminated but as I already had the correct crimps, I cut them to length rather than having loads spare. Factory wiring diagram for the highline (PR-KA2) camera is as follows: The earth wire was shorter than the others so I used the earth point in the boot below the rear seatbelts: For power, I removed the fusebox and used fuse 18 as per a factory install: After trimming and terminating the wires, I ended up with this: - new wires highlighted in yellow - new connector tapping into the CAN-bus circled in light green For the CAN-bus connection, I de-pinned the original quadlock connecter and moved the two CAN-bus wires into a separate connector, this means I didn't need to cut or modify the original wiring to tap into the CAN-bus: The eagle eyed amongst you may notice I used a 5a fuse in slot 18. After a quick shopping trip, I've now replaced it with a 7.5a fuse as per the factory wiring diagram. Coding was super easy: - Address 19, add 6C to the installation list - Address 10, coding, tick byte 2 bit 4 - Address 5F, adaptions, change Car_Function_List_BAP_Gen2-VPS_0x0B to "activated" - Address 5F, adaptions, change Car_Function_List_BAP_Gen2-VPS_0x0B_msg_bus to "Infotainment data bus" All works just like a factory install with the various modes etc. As expected, the only error code currently stored is "no basic settings" so I'll need to print out a VAS6350 board and calibrate it at some point

All depends on how 'good' the clone is There are certainly risks as I doubt the seller will offer any support if something were to go wrong. There is a VCP owners map mentioned in this post which has an NI owner listed, if you're on FB, it might be worth dropping them a message:

VAGHelper should be a free download, it's a tool to help understand/configure the lighting on PQ35 based cars such as your Octavia. The VCP versions you see on eBay are almost certainly clones. Current RRP is ~€270 (not sure if that has VAT?) on their website: https://vcpsystem.com/p99,vcp-can-professional.html

Heh, that's quite a drive and a ferry from here VAGHelper + VCP should be enough to solve this. If you have problems once you've got VCP up and running, feel free to drop me a bcm1 file from the PQ35 BCM programmer, I'll check it over and make any tweaks that need doing.

You probably need VCP or ODIS-e to correct the underlying lighting config in the BCM EEPROM. VCDS won't be enough unfortunately. Where are you based? If you're somewhere near me I can take a look

There is also a post on rosstechs forum showing the location in a MK7 golf which is likely to be identical to a vRS: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/7380/ I'd be very surprised if you have one. Looking at a FL brochure I have, it only lists the 'Sound Generator' as part of the vRS spec:

This is the picture if it doesn't show:

At a guess, any module that says (PR-1AT, UG0/UG3) next to it should be fine. Newer modules may have longer lcodes which is why I would stick to what's fitted... You should check by asking someone with access to a parts database what's correct for you vehicle as I'm not 100% sure

I'd suggest getting the same module if possible, saves any chance of incompatibility. Otherwise, I'd look to get one with the same PR-codes, there is a list of MK60EC1 modules here: Just make sure you backup the existing coding from your ABS module as it'll make coding the new one much easier.

Push the outer clip inward on one side with a little bit of downwards pressure on the camera, that should be enough start unclipping one side, you can then do the other side and it will more or less fall out. I didn't worry too much about the four other clips but there should just be access to push two of them slightly which may help. At least that worked for me about an hour ago when I switched mine over I now need to wait on the stereo removal keys (c'mon amazon) and to get some washer hose to hook up the washer jet.

Pretty sure MIB2 toolbox only supports MIB2 high, aka the Columbus or discover pro. People have asked for Amundsen/discover media but the developer doesn't have a device to test or time to add 😟

I'm not 100% sure, but I believe some need a 'radio on' and 'radio off' signal to function and these are only sent if the radio is in the installation list. It's probably similar to the battery drain issues that are common with old CAN gateways, the signal the radio expects never arrives so it doesn't fully shut down

Post an autoscan so we can see what you're dealing with. I would unplug/remove the BT module and remove it from the installation list. As for the Chinese radio: - if it is connected to the CAN-bus, you probably need to leave it in the installation list otherwise it may not work properly - if you ran a new switched/ignition feed, it can probably be removed from the installation list with no negative effects Assuming you do remove the radio from the installation list and it misbehaves, it's a 30 second job to add it back

It's more likely that the led module takes two power feeds. On previous generations, the led module took power and a PWM signal for brightness, both of which would turn off completely when it wasn't in use. I haven't looked in to the lighting channels or writing diagrams to confirm 🙂

Unless you can read/write the cluster EEPROM, yes, it's beyond your equipment