langers2k

Skoda also make a CAN-bus 1.6/2.0 adaptor/relay which I believe is designed exactly for this kind of retrofit. More details here:

The reflectors inside the projector units can also get mucky or burnt over time which will reduce output.

Personally, I think they are horrid! If you're worried about the paintwork, I'd suggest you have a look at PPF (paint protection film) instead. You won't know it's fitted and should save you from a few stone chips. I'd be very worried that dirt etc would collect at the edges of a bonnet bra and rub causing paintwork damage...

If you only have high beam assist, it's probably a lowline. If you have either lane assist or traffic sign recognition, it's a highline. Typically the following is true: - A lowline (20) camera is built into the rear view mirror base. - A highline (A5) camera is stuck directly to the windscreen and have a triangular cutout to 'see' through. Example lowline: Example highline:

The pictures above certainly help, black looked better than I expected! Anthracite is still probably winning - I'll have to see what the dealer will do for me

There is a guide in this thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/425611-instrument-cluster-led-replacment/ If you're not comfortable soldering small SMD components, you might find a local electronics repair shop is a better plan

I agree that pure black could be too much, just wary of keeping them diamond cut given I can take the money the dealer would be paying to refurbish them. Even if they don't get scuffed I expect stone chips will cause issues. The black/body colour badges look very smart though, very tempting

Pretty sure I was taught to leave cars in neutral when parked as it's something I've always done. The only exception would be on a steep hill, then I point the wheels at the curb and will sometime leave it in gear. Then again, I've never had a handbrake fail and I expect it's a bit flatter here than Tayside

Surely everyone likes Spanish ham! After you've changed the byte 14 coding, if possible a new full autoscan from VCDS would be useful to help pinpoint any other obvious issues. If the xenons aren't doing the up/down dance, that suggests something isn't right in the new range/AFS controller. Feels weird that they would start flashing as you rev the car though 😕

All the coding in the BCM does is change the "bulb out warning" to accept a xenon ballast rather than a halogen bulb. I believe the hex value should change from 01 to 11 in line 14

Today I've put down a deposit on an '18 plate 245ps hatch in meteor grey (woo!) but as it's hasn't been prep'ed by the dealer yet, the alloys (19" Xtreme) are pretty scuffed. Obviously the dealer will be refurbishing all four but as they are diamond cut, I'm very tempted to have them done in a flat colour to avoid any future diamond cut issues. I'd probably go anthracite so they still contrast with the car, has anyone else already done this? I know these are pre-fl but I think pure black is too much: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/303228-got-my-new-meteor-grey-vrs-today/ It looks @shrops_paul like might have done something similar, hard to tell from these pics: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/330110-calling-all-meteor-grey-vrs-owners/?do=findComment&comment=3975602 Any thoughts would be great

Byte 14 bit 4 is 'xenons without shutters' installed. No idea what you mean by the BCM not recognising the xenon unit though? Have you got a VCDS autoscan?

No recoding needed if you're only swapping/fixing the led lighting 🙂

Surely you just need to remove the wiper and motor then fit a suitable sized cap/grommet?

Compare the curves from your remap to a stock 190ps engine, if they are similar then it'll probably be as quick if not faster as I expect a 150ps engine is slightly lighter than a 190ps. At the end of the day, it'll all depend how good the remap is to how drive-able and quick the car is

You'll need a VW/Skoda USB hub, an extra USB socket, some wiring and finally coding to get this working. Once done, you can have both devices connected and choose between them. Might be worth asking @pab567 as it's something he has done previously although on a different MIB headunit:

Pretty sure having a breathalyser has now been removed from French law https://www.drive-france.com/faqs/france-breathalyzer-law/

I think you're looking for spigot rings rather than hub adaptors. I'm not expert but given plenty are made from plastic, I don't think they do much apart from help locate the wheel. As long as they are decent quality and don't prevent the wheel sitting flush against the hub, they should be perfectly safe. IIRC the Octavia centre bore is 57.1 and I'd be surprised if you couldn't find a decent set of Skoda/Seat/VW alloys with the right centre bore size...

If you check your indicators work occasionally, you'll be fine. Just don't rely on the car to warn you an indicator bulb has failed

Almost every module is complaining about the ECU... You need to remove the ECU and inspect the power, ground and CAN-bus wiring to/from the ECU. Worth checking any fuses/fuse holders to the ECU and load testing any current carrying wires. It's probably worth grabbing some wiring diagrams from erwin, a multimeter and a few cups of tea

The tyre pressure system won't cause the engine warning light to come on or restrict the power... You should get the car scanned with vcds or similar when the warning lights are on to get a better idea of what the problem actually is.

Had a quick look, connections on the power steering include: - T2p/1 (Terminal 31/ground) - T2p/2 (Terminal 30/permanent power) is fed from a 80a fuse (SA2) of the main busbar (slot 2) - T5e/1 (CAN-L) - T5e/2 (CAN-H) - T5e/4 (Terminal 15/switched power) is fed from a 5a fuse (SC6) of the passenger compartment (slot 6) which agrees with the owners manual - T5g/2/3/4/5 all go to G269, I'm not sure if this connector is accessible or if it's internal to the steering rack The three T5e/x wires all go via an extra connector named T6j described as a 6-pin connector, on front left in engine compartment (black). Given nothing else is complaining about terminal 15, the fuse it probably fine but it's worth load testing the terminal 15 supply at T5e and T6j if you can find them. I can't be 100% certain the diagrams I have match your car either. No idea what's happening regarding the fans I'm afraid. Can't help but feel there might be more corrosion somewhere...

This is what rosstech have to say: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00573 Given that, I'd try clearing the codes to start which should remove the yellow light. As it's intermittent and you've just had a load of electrical work done, I'd be trying "Check Steering Assist Power Supply (Terminal 15)" and "Check Fuse(s)" before considering a new steering rack. You can also try this to check the Steering Torque Sensor (G269)

A VCDS autoscan is perfect. There is a guide here, useful bits are 48 seconds onwards (how to autoscan, you have a CAN-gateway) and once complete, hit the copy button in VCDS and then paste it into a forum post

To be honest, it sounds like one of the electrical connections or fuse-holders haven't been cleaned/connected properly which led to a brief power outage to the power steering and it got upset. Certainly feels more likely to be that give the work you've had done rather than an actual failure of the steering rack... Are you able to scan it for fault codes and post that? Did the yellow light go out after a short drive?