langers2k

I never found an official limit for the oil ash volume. On some forums they mention 175ml but plenty of folk have reported 200-250ml or even 300ml+. That suggests that nothing happens assuming it can still burn the soot off. I never saw much of a correlation between measured and calculated soot mass so that's completely normal. I don't think 'calculated mass' takes into account passive regen so it often much higher. The 45g limit only applies to soot mass, if it hits 45g it's no longer safe to regenerate so needs replacing or removing for cleaning. This is completely unrelated to the oil ash volume.

You need to retrofit a suitable MK60EC1 module. It will involve rewiring/changing the ABS module connector and adding an extra power feed. You'll also need to create a suitable long coding which will be specific to your VIN 👍

You'd need a wiring loom, mic and compatible BT module. It might also need coding in afterwards. Plenty of people seem to fit Android based headunits and are happy enough but I don't have any suggestions.

Welcome That behaviour suggests the car doesn't have bluetooth I'm afraid. The factory location for a BT module would be under one of the front seats so feel free to check there to see if one is fitted.

It's possible to change this although it's not simple. It requires finding the original dataset for the CAN gateway, tweaking it and the uploading it. More info: https://github.com/jilleb/MQB-FPA/wiki/dataset#0x339---0x345-profile-position-it-returns-to-after-restart

Double pressing the lock button quickly will disable safelock which also disables interior monitoring and anti-towing protection: The alarm will still be active but will be using fewer protection methods, these are listed on the page I previously posted in the alarm trigger section

After flashing I needed to parameterise the gateway. There were no issues with CP or SWaP/FeC - both were unaffected by the flash and parameterisation

All covered in the owners manual

Weird - nothing should be holding the throttle open for that long. Feels like something is failing but I'm not entirely sure what or how. Personally, I'd log various parameters during a drive to try and narrow it down but I imagine you haven't got any diagnostic equipment?

Your symptoms match mine so it's my best guess - I had no issues with heater output - I noticed the oil temp would sit around 80-85'C rather than 90'C+ at a continuous 60-70mph - When the weather dropped cooler, I saw the same water temp drop that you've described when stationary If your oil temps are also low like mine that suggests both your temperature sensors are reading correctly. If so the engine is probably overcooling which is likely the thermostat I'm sure some others will be along soon who may have some alternative suggestions.

How long is it maintaining speed for? If it's only briefly, you might just be experiencing 'rev hang' where the ECU continues to inject fuel for emissions reasons even after you've lifted off.

Welcome! When I had similar issues on a 2012 Octavia CR140 - it was the main thermostat failing and a replacement fixed it I logged the temperatures before/after to confirm the issue/fix: Another member also had success with a new thermostat too. Seems like it's an arse of a job, the dealer had my car for an entire weekend to fit it!

You need an original SD card for a factory/stock Amundsen to load the nav data It checks the CID and if that doesn't match, it won't work. There are a few SD cards where you can change the CID to match an original card but there are quite rare, it's certainly easier to grab the correct card.

They're part of the beam patten and cannot be adjusted separately I'm afraid.

Could be a NTSC vs PAL issue. Can't remember which you need I'm afraid...

BCM is the Body Control Module and is found at address 09. The adaption channels will change depending on year and spec, if you can find a way to create a full adaption channel map or backup, I'm happy to take a look. I don't like making suggestions without seeing how the car is currently configured. Unfortunately I haven't got a guide or instructions for you as I don't use OBDeleven.

On a 2018 vRS, the long coding will be all zero's for the BCM... If you want to activate cornering fogs, it'll be done via the adaption channels

I think a 2009 S4 would fit under "19-CAN Gateway using CAN" on the page I linked. However, your Yeti won't have a battery management subsystem under the CAN gateway so those instructions won't apply. I would imagine Carista can show subsystems but I've never used it to provide any detailed instructions. Looking online: 9485831 - Air Blower B10BE 07 [008] - Mechanical Failure I'd suggest removing the air blower to check for debris and it's condition. At a guess, it's seized and needs replacing...

You'll need washer jets for the MOT. I think you can just cut the holes but you might need to transfer the brackets from your old bumper to hold the jets. Just as an example from a MK2 Octavia:

This is the page Ross-tech have for battery coding: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Battery_Replacement For a Yeti, they would use the "61-Battery Regulation using CAN" version but this is only present on a Yeti with stop/start. If you have a scan tool, check if module 61 exists Example scan from a 2014 Yeti with no battery monitoring: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/20509/ Example scan from a 2017 Yeti with battery monitoring via module 61: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/7267/

If the car doesn't have stop/start, then no coding is needed or indeed possible when replacing the battery

At a guess, dinamo1990 has replaced the electronic control module but not the motor. That's based on various eBay items where: - 1T0 959 701 T motors are attached to 5K0 959 793 modules - 1T0 959 701 AA motors are attached to 5K0 959 793 A modules From the picture, you can see Dinamo1990's motor is attached to a 5K0 959 793 A module

The projector bowl is slightly different between halogen and xenon based headlights. Due to the extra light produced by the xenon and the slightly different characteristics, the design is tweaked to make the best use of the extra light. I think it typically creates a slightly wider beam iirc There is potential for drop-in HID kits to cause glare to oncoming drivers, especially with dirty headlights, during acceleration, on bumpy roads or with a loaded backend (and you've not adjusted the headlights down...).

You can download it and all other TPI's against your VIN directly from Skoda for a small fee: https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do Attached a copy that I have but it may get removed:

I certainly agree that misting is normal and should clear out naturally. However, there shouldn't be enough moisture to cause droplets... Based on the image from tdavison, the dealer should follow the TPI and perform a physical inspection to determine the cause of the water ingress. Few snippets from the TPI: The problem is if a dealer replaces the headlamps but Skoda disagree there is a problem, the dealer won't get any money to cover the work/parts: So it's easier for the dealer to say it's 'normal' even when there is a likely issue