langers2k

Based on your other posts, you have a 2Q0 camera? If so, I believe it's now a SWaP/FeC function so you're not able to code it with VCDS/OBD11. As mentioned here: You'll need to find someone who can add SWaP/FeC codes

@EnterName - I wouldn't worry. They've probably got a few suppliers for the camera unit but as long as the handle is the correct shape, I'm sure it's fine. In other news, I've calibrated the highline camera (not required for the aftermarket Chinese kits). I initially tried to use VCDS but none of the security codes worked which appears to be normal with the newer cameras. Instead, I got my trusty VAS5054a out and found a copy of ODIS service v5 online. You'll need a VAS6350 calibration targ et, the dimensions are online so I made a an SVG file and then converted it to a 300dpi 1900x700mm PNG. The forum software doesn't seem to like the PNG for some reason so I've zipped it: vas6350.zip I had the PNG printed locally for under £7 (190x70cm) but you can also play the cutting and sticking game with A4 if you prefer. The VAS6350 needs to be placed correctly on level ground, it seems like there are a few methods but I did the following. Find and mark the centreline of the rear wheels: Find the centreline of the car, I guessed this based on the roof antenna and rear badge: Place the VAS6350 on the car centreline and measure 1700mm from each rear wheel centreline and the first black bar: Fire up ODIS and use the guided function finding. It should spot the not calibrated fault code and walk you through the procedure. Make sure the camera is activated and at some point, it should ask for the distance to the target, target height and the camera height, in my case I think I used 1700mm, 1mm and 890mm. The RVC image will go a bit weird and 30 seconds later, it's all calibrated and no fault codes. Final picture of a very untidy garage:

I think the 'softest' is probably the Powerflex red as it's designed for diesels. Next level is probably the Powerflex yellow. I expect either should be fine on a road car based on other peoples posts. It seems you're most likely to notice the vibrations in reverse. Then you're on to the harder versions, ie Powerflex purple/black or even the APR billet steel version. Be interesting to see what you decide on and how you like it as I've noticed in wet conditions mine can get a bit bangy as traction disappears.

All road legal D3S bulbs will be around the same brightness as they need to be 3200lm ± 15% to meet ECE regulations. As for colour temperature, most are in the 4000 to 6000k range so if you stick to that, it'll be fine. It's hard to show the difference the colour temperature makes with pictures as most are photoshopped for marketing reasons In my opinion, it's important is to buy genuine, branded (Osram/Philips) bulbs from a official/reputable supplier as there are loads of fakes in the market. I've used powerbulbs a few times and never had a problem, here are a few D3S in rough order of colour temperature: - £48 per side: https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/osram-xenarc-classic-d3s-single - £78 per side: https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/xenon-vision-d3s-42403-single - £55 per side: https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/osram-xenarc-d3s-mercury-free-single - £88 per side: https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/philips-xenon-x-treme-vision-gen2-d3s-single - £145 for the pair: https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/osram-xenarc-cool-blue-intense-d3s-twin Prices correct at time of writing but may change. Personally, I'd do both sides and either spend £110 on the Osram Xenarc or £145 on the Osram Xenarc Cool Blue Intense

Agreed, a side effect will be more vibration. There's a pretty lengthy thread here:

It's more likely to be the ESC/ESP system and wheel hop. A quick google suggests a stiffer dogbone insert or better tyres help https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/banging-noise-while-spinning-tires.355534/

I have the same gateway and this BCM which is either the same or very similar: Part No SW: 5Q0 937 084 CQ HW: 5Q0 937 084 CG Component: BCM MQBAB H H36 0253 As expected, when on automatic the ambient lighting, dashboard and MIB colours all change when I select different driving modes. Pretty sure it also changes when going between manual/automatic modes too. I'd go and check but it's raining As far as I know, the only 'missing' feature is having the individual mode take the colour from the manual setting rather than the on coded on the Fahrprofil_7 channel. I believe this needs the 4344 or above firmware plus changing Ambiente_Fahrprofil_Individual to 7. Drive mode is currently retained across ignition cycles which I'd very much like to keep

Excellent info, thanks both! Just to confirm, are you saying that 3Q0 907 530 L - 4326 should allow setting the colour of the individual driving mode from the headunit? That is what I'm trying to fix but I think I need 3Q0 907 530 Q - 4344 or higher? Regarding flashing and index/SW versions, I had a quick look to see what gateways exist around the web, ignoring the 5xxx: Part No SW: 3Q0 907 530 L HW: 3Q0 907 530 C Component: GW MQB High 436 4326 <-- Mine Part No SW: 3Q0 907 530 Q HW: 3Q0 907 530 C Component: GW MQB High 439 4344 Part No SW: 3Q0 907 530 AA HW: 3Q0 907 530 C Component: GW MQB High 442 4366 Part No SW: 3Q0 907 530 AA HW: 3Q0 907 530 C Component: GW MQB High 442 4368 The following is interesting as it suggests a 'G' index was updated to an 'AA' index: Part No SW: 3Q0 907 530 G HW: 3Q0 907 530 C Component: GW MQB High 433 4303 Part No SW: 3Q0 907 530 AA HW: 3Q0 907 530 C Component: GW MQB High 433 4368 <-- 433 not 442 There seems to be a 3Q0 907 530 Q - 4343 and a 3Q0 907 530 AA - 4368 flash file available. That suggests I might be able to flash my gateway to become: Part No SW: 3Q0 907 530 AA HW: 3Q0 907 530 C Component: GW MQB High 436 4368 Would this allow: - the individual colour mode to work correctly - retain the driver mode memory (does reset with ignition off/on) Thanks again

Sorry to bump an old thread, I've just coded this on a MY18 vRS but have a quick question. For the individual setting, are you able to change the colour via the headunit? Seems some people are on later cars with this from factory: Looking around online, it seems that it should be possible by setting Ambiente_Fahrprofil_Individual to 7. When I set Ambiente_Fahrprofil_Individual to clash with any of the selectable Fahrprofil versions (1, 2, 3, 5, 7), selecting that option puts the headunit into disco mode! Basically the backlighting accent in the headunit will keep changing from the colour selected in manual mode and the colour set by that Fahrprofil option. As a temporary fix, I've set Ambiente_Fahrprofil_Individual to 9 (1 clashes with comfort) to avoid the conflict but it means I'd need VCDS (or similar) to change the individual colour choice Some sources suggest I need a CAN gateway with 4344 or 5344 and has an index Q and higher. Currently on 4326 with a L index - anyone had any experience getting CAN-gateways updated/flashed? I know it was pretty easy on the MK2 but I expect it will need parameterising etc afterwards on a MK3. Maybe something @SashaGrace has had experience with? Would love to get this working perfectly so the individual option is configurable via the headunit

The original Skoda catalogue is a much better place to start as there are 10's of options for the dampers depending on car spec. 7zap is good but they don't seem to be showing the PR codes any more so it's hard to know what each damper would be fitted to.

I can try and see what dampers my FL has but it probably won't help as it's also got DCC The FL vRS doesn't get spacers per se, but it has got a wider rear track compared to the pre-FL - I don't know if the same applies to non-vRS variants. The MK3 and MK4 are based on different platforms (1st gen MQB vs MQB Evo) so I'm not sure the dampers will be interchangeable. You could try and find a FL VIN online, get the PR-codes and then use one of the various online parts catalogues to check which dampers it should have?

I've never measured the current but my pixel 2 certainly charges while connected using Android Auto and streaming music via BT. If I commute to work every day, I don't need to charge the phone at all during the week That's on both: - MIB2.5 Amundsen in a MY18 Octavia - MIB STD2 PQ retrofitted to a MY12 Octavia

It's certainly plausible there is some crud or water in the towbar socket. Take a look for anything obvious and maybe try plugging/unplugging something a few times to see if it helps. If not, I'd give your towbar chap a ring and see if he expects the relays to click when nothing is attached

Put a wheel bolt through a hole on the standard alloy and measure how much thread comes through the back. Do the same for a new wheel. If they are about the same, it's probably fine. If it's much shorter on the new wheel, get some longer bolts

The towbar module is connected directly to the 7 or 13 pin towbar socket. It's job is to figure out which rear lights are on (indicators, tail, brake etc) and then power the relevant pins on the towbar socket so same lights are shown on the light board/trailer/caravan etc. A factory module would typically use silent solid state electronics but aftermarket kits can still use mechanical relays. I believe it's the relay inside the towbar module you can hear clicking as the brake lights turn on and off. The question is, how clever is the module? Does it: - always turn the towbar socket brake lights on/off - only turn the towbar socket brake lights on/off when something is connected to the towbar socket If it's the former, it should always have clicked unless the relay has gotten louder/noisier for some reason. If it's the latter, then something may be causing the towbar module to think something is connected to the towbar socket and activate the brake lights. You can also try putting the indicators on to see if it makes the same noise

In my mind, that can only be the aftermarket towbar kit. I wouldn't expect any stock relays in that location as there is no access to replace them without stripping back to the interior. My thoughts are: - it's always done it but you've not noticed due to things in the boot, tonneau cover, etc muffling the sound - it's a new issue with the towbar electronics Assuming it's the latter, the towbar electronics might think something is plugged in so is turning on/off the brake light pin on the towbar connector? I'd agree it's worth having a chat with the towbar installer to see if he'd expect to hear it clicking with nothing plugged in

The brake pad wear sensor connects to the instrument cluster. It's just a loop of wire inside the brake pad material that will eventually get worn away breaking the circuit, there are no relays etc involved. I really can't see how it could be causing the sound described even if the connecting wire is flapping around. Not all brake pads are quite the same size so if they are smaller, they could cause a slight click if they are slightly too small although that should definitely be coming from the front end not the back. Are the towbar electronics aftermarket? That could have a relay fitted but I'd expect the factory kit to be solid state with no moving parts. Saying that, changing the brake pads should make no difference to the towbar kit. Might be worth having a passenger try a few seats while you drive to confirm exactly where the noise is coming as they can be deceptive

Feel free to add some pictures

A 2014 Superb should easily have a new enough CAN gateway that the classic parasitic drain shouldn't be an issue. Might be worth asking @Rustynuts for advice as he's the resident expert on the RNS style Columbus. Otherwise, it's always worth having the car scanned with VCDS or similar for clues

The connection in my picture would be about here: If it's so wet behind the left light, it suggest the problem is around that area as it's unlikely for the washer pipe to make it that far. edit: There will be a bonnet open sensor somewhere, you just need to fool that so the car thinks it's shut

I think 03xx units can only officially run 03xx firmware, the latest being 0367. If you want to run 04xx firmware, it might be possible if you send the Bolero to be reworked. @pab567 can probably explain more

I expect this Superb guide is equally valid for the Octavia

Assuming you're using VCDS, can you post an adaption map for the BCM? Ideally before you made any changes but after is fine is you tell us what you changed

I just checked a BCM I have here and there is no pin 41 in connector C. Just as an example from eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184480254453 that also doesn't have seem to have pin 41 fitted on connector C The pinout I have matches yours but it appears at least some BCM versions don't have that pin fitted...

Pretty sure the pairing fobs for remote unlock/lock is via adaption channels in 09 BCM. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_Golf_(1K)_Comfort_System#Channel_000:_Remote_Control_Clearing You'll need other tools for the immobiliser side though.