langers2k

I expect you need something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ECP-Emergency-Quality-Plastic-1782177/dp/B08TPBTTDD There is a VW part number 000072709 but it only appears to be in the USA...

Excellent news! Glad it was something simple in the end

Mine is always on the 'sport display' with the MPG/range shown

If it helps, I use the 3ft version of this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DD5YHMH Pretty cheap and next day if you have amazon prime.

It's common these days, if you google for almost any brand (Skoda, VW, Audi, BMW, Ford etc etc) and headlight misting you'll get plenty of results... It should come and go depending on the weather etc. Bit more from the TPI: General reasoning • With the headlamps there are often complaints about “steamed up lenses”. Because of the headlamp circulation system air from the outside flows through the headlamps. • The steaming-up of the headlamps can be compared with the misted windscreen, which is, however cleared by the “defroster vent”. • Condensation of humidity on lens occurs also during the heating up phase when the engine warms up the rear side of the headlamp and the lens is simultaneously cooled by the ambient cold air. • The steaming-up is an optical phenomenon, which doesn't affect the headlamp function (light performance) and doesn't lead to corrosion in the headlamps. • Steaming up due to parking in humid environment (affected are mostly both headlamps): when heat is generated by the engine and the front part of the headlamp is simultaneously cooled down results in a temperature difference causing the condensation of humidity inside the headlamp. The steaming up can be already less intense already after the vehicle has arrived at the workshop. This can be used as an example of the environmental influence. • The open ventilation system (needed for pressure compensation) creates different “climate zones” in the headlamp; very warm areas, where the lens is warmed up by the light and relatively cool areas where the lens is cooled down by the slipstream. • Under these circumstances, water condensation may occur on the inner side of the lens at high air humidity and temperature differences between the inside of the headlamps and the outside (sometime when driving) especially in cold seasons and/or wet weather. • This can happen e.g. after a car wash, steam cleaning of the engine or the front end, overnight temperature changes and so on. • By using lenses made of clear glass this phenomenon is easier visible than on lenses with patterns. • This phenomenon is physically related and can therefore occur on every headlamp, fog lamp or tail light. • Inform the customer that information concerning steaming up of the headlamps is to be found in the Owner´s Manual in the Chapter " Headlamps". Further reasoning for halogen / xenon headlamps/lights: • If the headlamps are steamed up, the light discharge surface of the lens should be free after the dipped light is on for 5 - 10 minutes with sufficient ventilation (country road/motorway). The remaining surfaces may still be steamed up after the journey. • The demisting time of the headlamps depends on the ambient temperature, vehicle speed (the headlamp is faster ventilated at higher temperatures) and the relative air humidity. Further reasoning for LED / Full LED headlamps/lights: • Lights with LEDs do not warm up the light cover even when they are switched on, as the proportion of infrared rays is zero in their light. • Ventilation and the resulting demisting is ensured in this case only by the difference of pressures (caused by the difference of temperatures), occurring during a longer drive. The more the engine compartment is warmed up, the easier the humidity leaves the headlamp through the diap

Looks normal to me... I've added pics from the Skoda TPI (2043148/5) regarding this. Misting is fine: Big droplets aren't:

Well it is possible... Works perfectly in my MK3: Did you reboot the headunit after making the change by holding the power button for 10-20s until the boot logo was displayed?

A quality d1s xenon will give you better light output and distribution than a drop in led conversion 😉

You probably need to enter a security code to enable changing adaptions first. If I recall correctly, it's 31347

It's likely that ODIS will have perform an SVM reset as part of the smartlink activation, this means the headunit will have been restored to factory settings plus the smartlink changes. If it's an OEM camera, it'll need recoding. If it's a third party camera that automatically recodes the headunit, then I'm not sure how to make it perform the coding again 😕

@pab567 should be able to sort you out 👍

Sport mode should adjust the steering weight and make it feel heavier/more direct as it'll assist less. It's certainly noticeable in my vRS when changing the steering between normal and sport. If the car is feeling skittish, that suggests a problem with the tyres, rims, suspension or alignment normally...

My Pixel 5 running Android 12 works fine with the Amundsen in my vRS although the headunit is running a slightly newer software version (0480)

I don't believe this is true... At least from all the VAG headlights I've seen inside, there are two separate mechanisms: - one for the manual adjustment via the adjustment screws - one for the servos to automatically adjust the aim These two systems are completely separate so even if the manual adjustment is completely min'ed/max'ed out, there is no risk of popping off or bottoming out. Just as an example, take a look at the picture below: - the three white bits connect to the headlight and the two manual adjusters - the inner frames are moved by servos between the inner/outer to give the automatic movement All the 'service position' does is return the servos to their home position and relearn what 'level' is based on the suspension sensors ready for adjustment. For minor adjustments where the suspension etc hasn't been touched, it should be perfectly safe to do it without 'service mode'

It's hard to say what's possible without knowing what options/spec/modules your car has. At a guess, these are probably possible and likely the most useful: - high beam assist - traffic sign recgonition - cornering fogs - virtual sub/surround Then it's smaller things like: - fan speed in auto - dual rear fog lights - refuel volume - extra colours for the ambient lighting - offroad mode Just depends what you want

If I remember correctly, 5E0 919 719 L are from a Yeti so won't work in a MQB platform car like a MK3 Octavia 🤔

VCP can extract the lighting configuration as a bcm1 file. You can then tweak it with vaghelper https://skodapilot.com/vaghelper/?lang=en Then use VCP to upload them new dataset. It's not hard, just make sure you keep a back up of your official config 😉

While that is correct, I don't believe the op has a vrs nor has one been mentioned 👍

You can do a complete swap for a FL frontend. If I remember correctly, you'd be looking at replacing the: - bumper - headlights - wings - grill (but not the bonnet...) This post has a little more info:

Nope... You might be able to modify it to make it fit but it's certainly not a direct swap as everything will be different shapes.

It's certainly possible as I tweaked my MK2 to do the same - you can do it with or without the rear lights being on. However, it's not something VCDS can do. You'll need something that can tweak the BCM EEPROM such as VCP or ODIS-e and someone who understand the lighting configuration section

I'm sure there is a BMW round here with something similar. It certainly doesn't look bad for it but I think they have a few other fluorescent bits to help tie the wing mirrors in. Erm, why would the police care? AFAIK, there is nothing wrong with fluorescent colours or wraps being used on UK cars. As it's only the wing mirrors, there is no need to tell the DVLA of a colour change but the OP would have needed to inform their insurance. If you start fitting retro-reflective materials then I believe those are subject to various restrictions

The only obvious missing fuse is slot 18. If you look carefully, you'll see it's got contacts at both the top and bottom of that slot which suggests it's missing it's fuse There are a few with contacts at just one end (ie: 7, 8, 9, 10) which is normal as there is a busbar running along the top. As it's just a single contact, there is no need for a fuse 👍 Quite a few of those look like replacement fuses so it might be worth checking each one in turn is still OK.

I think the inbuilt satnav will normally take over and show directions when you set a route. However, once the directions are shown, you can change the information shown back to speed using the normal methods (steering wheel buttons etc)

The steering rack might need re-calibrating to learn where the middle is. Certainly on my MK2 Octavia if this was done incorrectly, it would cause the car to pull in one direction even if the alignment etc were correct. It might be G85 calibration IIRC...?