langers2k

If those droplets are in the inside, then I'd consider it excessive. There is a Skoda tpi regarding this, bit more info and pics in this thread:

At a guess, it'll start 3T2 for the RHD version Not sure where will be best to buy them though I'm afraid. Maybe a breaker on eBay selling a similar car?

That video seems to tally in to the rosstech comment, that channel is to adjust the fuel reserve level. Rather than calibrate the sensor through the full range.

For a 2012 Superb, you'll need a genuine VCDS micro-CAN, HEX-USB+CAN, HEX-V2 or HEX-NET interface. The cheapest currently available would be a 3-VIN HEX-V2 at ~£225. That being said, it'll help with diagnostics and fault reading but despite J.R.'s comment, I don't think it can 'calibrate' the fuel gauge... Having looked a scan for a similar vehicle, there is an adaption channel named 'Display correction of fuel gauge' but that doesn't seem to do what you'd need: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/28648/#post-242725 VAG seemingly haven't implemented that functionality as the fuel senders should all be close enough as not to need it. A quick google suggests that: - 50 ohms is full - 160 ohms is half full - 350 ohms is empty/reserve No idea if that's correct for a Superb but it's the only obvious info I could find

I've attached a Nov 2017 brochure with a Jan 2018 pricelist: octavia.pdf Based on that, I'd guess at: ex-VAT inc-VAT [K1K1] Velvet red metallic £604.17 £725.00 [RA3] CANTON sound system £420.83 £505.00 [KA2] Rear-view parking camera £316.67 £380.00 [PJC] Temporary space saver spare wheel £87.50 £105.00 [7X2] Front and rear parking sensors £295.83 £355.00 [WUB] Black design package plus £612.50 £735.00 However, if your car was a 245 'edition' the standard spec included parking sensors and black design package plus along with heated seats, folding wing mirrors etc...

I think all 245's had the VAQ fitted as standard? Still, a dealer should be able to pull up the original build spec, I believe PR-1Y2 is the VAQ diff If not, try using OBDeleven or VCDS, if you can access module 32 - Differential Locks, then it certainly has a VAQ fitted

That's an aftermarket item but if the AC cutouts and colour matches your existing trim, then excellent There are a few versions here: https://www.cars-equipment.com/en/shop/plastic-trims-52/ edit: There is also what looks like a bolero size to double din adapter: https://www.cars-equipment.com/en/shop/plastic-trims-52/plastic-trim-for-2din-radio-skoda-2/

Might be worth adding a picture of your old surround along with the full part number including colour code (stamped on the rear). Should be relatively easy to figure out from that.

It's still a gearbox remap so should effect your warranty much like any other gearbox remap. The only difference is you effectively flash it yourself using their tool rather than having someone else do it... No idea if it's any better/worse than other companies...

Should be able to. At a guess it'll be: - 4 new sensors + paint - replacement parking sensor module - a front buzzer - extra button to turn the sensors on/off - wiring to connect it all up - coding the car

It's very unlikely the wires will be present, you'll need to add them

Nice, that should sort it for the mot! I'm out in Swaffham so if you want to take a closer look at the coding etc in the New Year, we can sort something out. Just drop me a PM 👍

Based on that, it does feel like the car coding has been messed with for some reason but the wiring is fine. Depending where you are in Suffolk, if you fancy a trip to Norfolk I can take at the cars coding and lighting configuration for you. If you want to fix this with wires, don't connect both sides together, instead, run a wire each way to swap them over. A better plan might be changing the two pins at the BCM, T52aa/6 and T52ac/47, not sure if there is enough slack to make that super easy or not.

Should be possible assuming your ECU can drive the relays for it

Not given that amount of info... Based on your other posts, you probably have a MIB2 Amundsen...? In which case, try this:

Completely depends how good the dealer or independent is and what the problem is! First thing to check is how the tail/fog lamps are connected. At least on my old 2012 hatch it had a P21/4W bulb with the 4W filament disconnected, it would always use the 21W filament but dim it using PWM for tail light use. You can easily check by: - counting the wires to the tail lamp, 5 wires suggests your car does the same, 6 wires suggests a separate tail light feed - looking at the working side, does it use the same filament for both tail and fog This will hopefully help narrow it down between wiring and coding Coding gets a bit more interesting, quick bit of background, the BCM (body control module) is responsible for the external lighting on this age of Octavia. As the same module can be fitted to various VAG cars, the lighting configuration is adjustable to support the different lighting options used, it's mostly controlled by byte 18 in the BCM coding. The problem with the Octavia is that none of the byte 18 values match it's lighting so it's normally set to 00 which a 'custom' configuration applied using dealers tools such as ODIS. This means that most independents won't have the tools or knowledge to correct issues in the light config. A dealer 'should' be able to reset the config using ODIS but again, training can be patchy so you'd need to find a dealer with at least some clue.

From factory, only the drivers side rear fog light should work. It feels like someone may have messed about with the cars coding or something to get this behaviour... - Any history or previous work done to the car? - Have you had it long? - Have you got any error lights/bulb out warnings etc?

The 'bluer' the light typically means the useful light output decreases. I wouldn't bother with the CBB, the CBI is probably better but I used Night Breaker Unlimited and was very happy with them.

Aren't the Osram kits only designed to replace halogen H7 bulbs? So won't fit or help the OP with xenon (D3s?) bulbs...

Yes, having the wrong light source in your headlight should fail the UK MOT as "4.1.4c light source and lamp not compatible". The guidance is aimed towards the more common HID/LED in a halogen headlamps but should apply equally to LED in HID headlamps as the headlamps will only be type approved for HID light sources Not that it relevant to the OP as they are in Spain...

Just depends where you source the parts from... Just as an example, this shop charges £650 for the parts on a similar aged Golf: https://www.vw-retrofit.co.uk/product/golf-mk7-heated-mfsw-complete-set/

The handbook is wrong - it's definitely a P21W SLL (super long life) and not a PY21W...

I'd stick with xenon bulbs... The optics are designed for a xenon bulb so a drop-in LED won't give the same light distribution. You also have the issue of cooling the LED, an OEM LED setup use something like this with a massive heatink to keep heat under control: The drop-in kits are limited in size to fit in the same space as the original lamp so have much smaller heatsinks:

Assuming the key is removed properly by a dealer or decent independent/auto-locksmith: - the remote fob will not unlock car - the immobiliser chip will not start the car - the key blade will still unlock the drivers door and likely unlock the steering lock I believe that using the key blade to unlock the car will cause the alarm to sound after 30s but I'm not 100% sure If you get a new key from a dealer, the old key should be removed during the programming. Basically the car gets put in to a learning mode and needs each key presenting in turn to learn. As the old one is missing, it won't be present and impossible to learn

I used to use an expired credit card They are P21W but ideally use a long life variant if possible. The 'normal' life ones don't tend to last well.