flybynite

Nah it is recessed in the casting and they helpfully chamfer the edge of the bolt to add to the issue

Lots of things to try, in order. 1. Heat 2. Penetrating fluid 3. sometimes hammering it flat bends the sides over enough to get a grip again and the heat and hammering helps release it 4. If you have something like a screwdriver the right width or a square drive you can hammer into the stripped spline, then get a socket or pliers on it. 5. Sharp chisel on the outer edge of the bolt head and tap it round in the correct direction. 6. Drill out and proper stud extractor 7 Weld a nut on the top. Good luck Were you using a torx?

The last of the non-opf petrol cars are fetching a bit of a premium at the moment, especially the ones that are likely to receive a tuning. I have seen it on Audi, VW, BMW and Merc and I have no doubt Skoda models will see the same thing. Lots of people have lost lives and livelihoods with this pandemic but conversely there are lots with unspent cash in their pocket and time on their hands to think and search for last of the best cars.

I run 18" Summer and 17" winter OEM sizes and yes there is a difference but a lot of that is down to the tyre. The winters are a bit softer. There can be a big difference in tyres on the same rim. I found it when I went form the crap OEM Dunlops to the PS4 on 18" the ride was a lot less harsh. Before you look at spacers, VW OEM wheels tend to run a high 30s/low40s offset that puts the wheel 10-12mm in the right direction without the bother of spacers

I disagree, if the brakes have been badly bled in the past leaving air in the ABS unit it can cause strange braking issues including loss of brake effectiveness with a hard pedal. But I do agree it sounds more like a servo assist problem. If it is lighting the CEL then there should be fault codes logged in the system. That is where I would start.

I thought they used the 150bhp cut-off that they used with other things. Anything over 150 bhp got the better stuff

No it was from MY16 on the pre-facelift so a 2017 is likely to have the smaller 312mm disks Calipers are made by TRW, nothing wrong with them and either size is fine. What you lose in heat capacity and ultimate stopping power you gain in unsprung mass.

IMHO that is not where ACC (or basic CC) are worth using. Busy stretches of road with people darting around are where you should have hands and feet on the controls. Automatics are just not there yet and even on the Tesla I used last year they have a long way to go. On long quieter stretches of motorway is where I think it does best when giving the right foot a rest and change in position is a necessity. To be able to just let the car slow itself down for slower traffic when there is other traffic in the outer lane is great, then when it clears just indicate and it accelerates back up to speed all without touching the CC. In the past either slowing it down manually or braking/disconnecting it each time you needed to pass something became a pain on long runs. With an electric handbrake it also does stop-start traffic very well, one thing I miss on the Octy from some of the others I drive. If I had one criticism it would be to have the distance vary better with speed, I find myself bumping the distance up a notch or two at higher speeds and back down at lower speeds.

I think the problem is that this is a question that has been asked a few times, if you don't search some get a bit tetchy. But the standard OEM spare wheel is a 16" regular wheel and tyre and will fit over your scout brakes just fine as will the 18" 'space saver' that is meant for the vRS with big brakes and is unnecessary for the Scout. The one problem is tyres, the Scout has slightly taller tyres than all other models so any standard spare wheel (and 205/55/16 tyre) will be slightly undersize for the Scout and could cause a bit of issue with the 4x4 system if you ran on it too much (even at 50mph) . 205/60/16 is the better fit for the Scout but not completely sure it would fit in the boot. Not sure what the Scout came with as a spare if you ordered it from the factory as I have only ever driven one of them.

Agreed, You need to be ready to take over yourself, disconnect, brake or accelerate especially when other traffic is doing stupid things. Same with normal CC. To be fair the manual says a lot about using it and the problems. For me ACC is one of the best bits of kit on the car, it works very well but it has limitations. The biggest problem I have with it is if you leave a fraction too much space then all hell breaks loose when someone kindly elbows themselves in and if you leave too little space you are too close. I don't use it around busy traffic and I tend to drop it out around junctions You also need to appreciate the effect indicator use has on it.

You can always over-ride ACC and front assist with the accelerator

Some OPF engines dropped the second set of MPI injectors because with the OPF the port injectors were not strictly necessary to meet emissions targets any more . It is not as much of a power problem at first but the port injectors keep the ports clear of carbon deposits. Dual injected cars have not needed walnut treatment and are a bit easier to tune (MPI retrofits are offered for a reason) Depends how far you are tuning it and how long you plan to keep the car. If I had the choice I would go for the pre-OPF car for a few reasons, all of mine are.

Apart from the more exotic machines one of the best handling bog standard cars out of the box was the MK1 Focus, Mk2 wasn't far behind, MK3 less so and not driven any since. Much better than the equivalent VAG cars of the day. I find the Octy pretty capable but a bit over-damped, under-sprung and weak on the rear ARB. I have driven Octys with both KW street comfort and V3 suspension and (for different uses) that does transform the handling. Mine does not get the use to justify it but I did change the RARB and some pads may find their way under the rear springs one day.

I don't buy Michelins for sporty feel or response, I leave that to the suspension. I buy them for grip, If I think I will need wet grip more I buy Continental, or more recently Bridgestone. For the car that gets frequently rammed up against the kerb I am warming to the Goodyear. Cheap is better here too But lets be honest no tyre is going to transform the handling characteristics of an Octy on standard suspension, even a vRS. Most of the time the people complaining about grip on a particular summer tyre is when mine are on the rack in the back of the garage and I'm on winters. Oh well all is well with the world then but if you are trying to get the point across, may be worth spelling things out, trying to see the difference between = - and : on a small screen, not so easy... groan away!

That the other two came first as well It goes back to what I have always said, there is no one BEST tyre. You pick the one with the characteristics you want or need. If cheap is one then it is as valid a reason as any. I ran something I just sold on Contis and I'm not against the Goodyear either, in fact I'll probably be using it on one of mine for nothing more than the rim protector it has but anything I drive on the road regularly I tend to stick to Michelin (in the summer) at this point in time.

Really? https://www.tyrereviews.com/Article/2021-Tyre-Reviews-UHP-Summer-Tyre-Test.htm Only came first in the previous test due to cost

Yeah I've thought about the Audi spring pads (TT MK2 ones from what I remember) just never got round to make up my mind as it would look better 15mm lower front than 10mm higher at the back because it is a mighty big arch gap but the clearance is useful at times. (it is a 4x4 after all )

I know it feels like it because they are so f#*#*g over-damped but the cars with sport suspension have different shock part numbers . Don't think lowering it to VRS level using springs would cause a great issue. Personally I would not go any lower than that though as it is one of the reasons I have std-height suspension. I was tempted to put VRS springs up front to level the thing up as it has looked up at the front from the factory but thought better of it as the plastic sump clears the speed humps better

That's because they are used on the Yaris GR But PS4 are fine for me on the Octy

The confusion comes because the metal hook-ring-pull-thing is used to pull off some types of wheel nut cover (mainly on VWs) that look like they have a torx drive in the centre. Skoda and Audi normally use the tongs. The one that goes over the locking wheel bolt is very hard to see when it is on.

That is your problem, tires are only for fitting to American cars and in exceptional circumstances to Audis and Vws sold on the North American continent. They should never be fitted to a Skoda which was never designed to work in America or run on tires. They wear terribly on roads with bends and even worse roundabouts which they are just not designed to tackle. When you get a decent set of tyres fitted get the car properly aligned on a Hunter rig (as said above) by someone known to be able to use it.

There is a lot of weight difference between the older ATE and newer TRW calipers The ATE are very heavy but also very stiff, they don't flex like the later TRW caliper Depends on how you are using the brakes, the earlier disc was heavier but that extra weight gave it more capacity to absorb heat. Newer ones are not cooler in practice unless you go for the clubsport ones

It is the tyre width that will lift the boot floor not the wheel diameter I'm Sorry but a 17", 18" and 19" OEM wheel with 225 width tyres are all the same size outside because of the different tyre profile 45.40 and 35. I get a 225/45 tyre under the boot floor but it is on a 7x17" steel and has no rim protection, the same tyre in 225/40 on a 7x18" will fit just the same To be safe you could always use a 205

Yes 17" and above will fit over the 340mm fronts brakes which are the closest, 310mm rears are not an issue. Spare wheel well on the Octy will take a full size spare, it may lift the boot floor a couple of mm if the tyre has large rim protector. I have a 17" Steel with a full 225/45/17 tyre. Still technically restricted to 50mph but I feel happier on that than a space saver

Nothing 4-piston will do that, they all require some adapters and will not fit behind normal Skoda wheels with no spacers. Only thing I would consider is 312mm front, good enough for the MK7 GTi, good enough for most standard Octys The weight of 340mm brakes will make your front suspension crashy having a light engine and with a torsion beam you will end up with crashy front and rear As said above the question is why you want bigger brakes?? What is the exact problem you are trying to solve