Esseesse200

I can vouch for both as I’ve had both Racingline and TVS. The TVS tcu and ecu was brilliant in my superb 2019 model. 380bhp 560nm for 150k miles no issues. Also had Racingline software on my previous diesel and also have it on my wife’s up gti. When they unlock the ecu on my new cupra 333 ill go Racingline ecu and tvs tcu. Main reason is that once you have the Racingline ecu tune you can buy their PDM module and you have the facility then to change maps for fuel grades and torque requirements via obd port. So Basically you have access to upload and change to any map that has been written for that engine. Talk to them about it, it’s pretty cool. I’m not associated with them but I do know Ben their software director as I have dealt with him when he was shark performance before he worked for RL. Many years ago. Their support is also excellent. And the TVS map for the tcu is epic, their support is also superb. Do the tcu first then Racingline would tune the ecu to suit the gearbox torque limits set by tvs

The rear camber is totally adjustable if the bolt isn’t seized or they get a couple new bolts The rear camber is pretty equal side to side however that’s a lot of camber for a standard road set up. I used to run that degree on my old superb 4x4 Octavia for fast road/track day use. It needs to be about 1.5 negative for a good road set up and minimal inside edge tyre wear

Nope but the superb is.

You can read the gearbox mileage on obd eleven. If it’s been clocked it’ll show original gearbox mileage

I wouldn’t worry about that centre screw looks impossible to fit and remove when you do the filter clean. Pics of the cupra st. Vz3. 333hp. Carbon sabelts and 6pot akebono calipers 374mm disc

Yea I’ve had 1 on a superb and now the new cupra. What’s up mate

Just try a Racingline dealer. My previous 2 diesels did in excess of 100k miles each with their maps on. Trouble free.. They are very reliable and the service has been spot on so far. And if it’s the 2016 onwards 190hp engine then the map they sell and show on their site was done as development on my superb 4x4. Twas rapid

Just to add my 10p worth. I’ve ran both my previous diesel 4x4 (white one) and my current 272 (4x4) with koni special actives and h&r springs for many many miles and never had an issue. The konis are a great shock and ride is way better then standard sportline spec. Fully loaded still really good ride and my current set have done over 120k miles with no issues

Sorry meant 5/30 not 5/40 I use that in the super superb

Go onto Opie oils and just put you reg in. It’s supposedly a 0w20 or something ridiculous. I have an up gti with the same engine and it’s quieter and I use a 5w40 ee oil fo m millers

I run vredestein ultrac pro on my 19’s on an 4x4 superb and they Are really quiet. The noise could also be to do with your geometry/wheel alignment on the back. Worth getting it checked and you might be surprised. Knock a bit of negative camber off and a bit of toe adjustment: Did you notice the inside edges worn on your old set like a serrated wear pattern ?

Most of the time the remap will just enhance every mode. Not sure if any companies have managed to remap just one of the modes whilst leaving the others standard. as long as the map is a nice smooth one without the chasing numbers’ maps it can also depend on the gearbox map too if you are dsg. You’ll just learn to drive with a little less right foot

Just get the box mapped. TVS or racingline . I’ve had the TVS stage 2+ on mine for 3 years and is faultless

I have a 272 4x4 sportline 2019 gpf car with the 7speed dq381. Came up from a diesel with the dq250. It’s smooth and really well rounded car. Gearbox does need a map yes so I had the TVS stage 2+ map put on it. It’s a world of difference and includes a life extender feature it’s also running 380hp 560nm torque and has 125000miles on without engine or gearbox fault. So don’t worry about the gearbox reliability. Change the engine oil every 10k, DSG oil every 40k and haldex every 10k. I do the plugs every 20k too but only because of the map to be fair..

Deffo racingline r600 induction kit. Turbo elbow, silicone induction hose, One of Racingline pcm’s if they do one for your car. H&r wheel spacers and lowering springs

I have a set of superpro ones if you want. They are caster increase polyurethane. I fitted them to a superb but the arms are longer on a superb than a golf/octavia. Pop me a pm if you fancy. they were literally on for about 200 miles then I took them off and replaced them with the correct superb arms and brought the poly bushes separate

Think the Skoda ones sieze inside the metal ring rather that explode. My 4x4 is 560nm 389hp and not had to replace yet with 110k on so I’m presuming they sorted it with later models !! could also be a regular use keeps them right too !! if it is that I’d be tempted whilst the shaft is off to do the front one also and check the centre bearing. I think you can get just enough space to just do the back ring 😳😂 without prop removal.

Rubber prop shaft donut. Used to have to replace entire shaft at astronomical cost but can buy the donuts now. I’d do both front and back whilst it’s off.. unless your under warrantee in which case get it back in and they’ll replace the entire shaft.

Yes just yes to the TVs stage2+ dsg map.. I’ve have the ecu and tic done by them. it’s very smooth and lightning quick changes when in all modes but especially in sport. Just spend the money and go for it. I’m running a 272 with 380bhp 560nm. all the modes are enhanced and the life extender and drivability stuff is world class

Any advice or anyone had this happen. Just stopped lifting and closing on every button. Suspect wiring fault but wiggled them and no change. OBDeleven shows hall sensor in motor 1 for rear hatch. tried output test and nothing happens. No noises and no opening or closing. currently having to heave boot up and down manually. cheers folks

Yep procedure will tell you to connect battery charger but no need. I’ve done. Mine many times without. Mond eleven will have some instructions, just follow those. Once the brakes are open you can turn off ignition then back on and reset brakes when all fitted back up. There will be a warning for a bit but if you do a full scan after brakes are all reset and closed it’ll clear any codes

Just go to main dealer mate. Or tps. By the time you’ve faffed about trying to find one elsewhere it’ll not be worth the saving. Also if yr not a mechanic I’d get them to fit it too because they can be a swine to remove and if it strips yr bu99ered.

When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced if at all