BigEjit

Dual purpose..? And not found on Combi with roof rails... https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/accessories-assembly-manuals

Mostly answers the question… I have GY4Season for my winter tyres. There is more tread noise/buzz over a typical summer tyre for the equivalent vehicle speed on tarmac and they are noticeably more squidgy in warm weather temps but they cut through standing water better than summers, deal with cold temps and frosty mornings better and hack through snow perfectly well. A friend with a Yeti put the cross climates on as an all year round tyre and has no complaints even in bad weather in Snowdonia. They are a more summer based tyre compound with winter weather ability. If I was going for a one tyre fits all option, this would be my choice.

An intermittent short circuit inside the battery can give the symptoms you mentioned if you find the system voltage is jumping from above 12v to 10.5v and back above 12v again.

AGM’s are the most robust batteries you can get. It will be fine for a few weeks until you can get it coded. I did the same on our ultra low mileage Fab 3, swapped the EFB battery out for an AGM 6 months ago and had it coded in on its major service a few weeks ago.

BTW, as the battery is done, just shove the VARTA AGM with the same case size on it and get it coded. It’ll do the job perfectly.

It’s either a Moll, Sebang or Banner as it’s got their style of handle. Moll use red seals on their cell plugs. As you have a low mileage car for the age, it’s likely the battery is goosed through being held at low voltage from not much regular use and lost storage capacity. Check for a date stamp on one of the terminals, it should match with the age of the car if original. To identify it as AGM or EFB, you can do one of two things, either take the battery out and give it a vigorous wriggle. You will hear the acid slosh about in an EFB. Or take one of the plugs out of the lid, an EFB will be wet filled and dark, an AGM will have white pockets inside and no visible liquid acid. When you open an AGM, Oxygen is allowed in and will damage the cell functionality but if it’s done anyway…. No charge eyes on AGM but EFB’s can be with or without by choice.

Any long period of inactivity coupled with short journeys of just a few minutes at a time just puts the battery into a discharged condition. As the voltage drops towards 12.0v sulphation starts building up as part of the function of the battery. If its left in a low voltage condition (lower than 12.4v disconnected) for days or weeks, this becomes a permanent feature of the battery and loses functional capacity. it may still charge up to 12.72v but the active volume of material inside is much less than it was when new so it never lasts very long before needing another recharge. Flooded and EFB batteries are more sensitive to this than AGM which takes far more abuse to destroy, takes a charge faster and is better for low mileage cars. The golden rule is never let a battery stand at low voltage for weeks or months.

A 12v battery is used to maintain the electrical systems so it is at risk of deep discharge if the vehicle is parked up for a few weeks or months (also includes the transport network from factory to dealership in the history of the vehicle and more so if its an early vehicle and part of the launch stock built and stored). If its discharged and left for a few days, it can lose enough capacity to never recover or shorten its life in service. A big indicator for this is looking at the vehicle build date vs the sale date/when you took delivery.

Here's some answers, (What Varta would say if a techy got back to you, apart from the bikey bit...) Decent bikes can come with disc brakes (as an alternative to rim brakes) and the option of running sintered or resin pads and an additional option of finned pads for cooling to fend off fade for a good while. They have phenominal bite and modulation. AGM can go on conventional cars but ideally, the charge voltage needs to be limited to 14.8v to protect from overheating events and drying the battery out. The same for AGM compatible chargers ref 14.8v limit. All new batteries are fully charged ready for use but they need to be worked and cycled a few times for the performance to mature, like bedding in brakes. AGM can be as high as 13.0v at 6 weeks from manufacture but settle around 12.8v after that. Voltage cannot be toleranced as such as it is a result of an organic process but there are thresholds set after several rest period days for which the voltage must be higher for it to be fit for use and the bulk average figures are recorded for production runs for control limits and traceability references. Shelf life is dictated by voltage decay at approx 0.02v per month depending on ambient temperature. 12 months or more is not unheard of so long as the voltage is maintaned above 12.5v to prevent sulphation and permanent loss of capacity.

Go for the Octavia. From your list, it will likely be newer if odo miles between cars are similar, have more interior space, does the family thing well and still goes about a country lane and motorway pretty tidily.

Octy 3 is the same. Gas expands with heat.

Coding the battery is telling the car which charging profile to use to optimise the battery and vehicle systems. Using the wrong profile won’t cause an immediate issue, just doesn’t look after the battery correctly leading to early replacement. An AGM program on a standard battery wears it out quicker for example.

I’ll have a go at softening you up towards it. Don’t focus on the noticeable differences or annoyances in comparison to the A3. It’s not going to be the same. Turn them into character items that give it an individual personality instead of the sterile photocopy that comes with over engineering and excess padding. Then remind yourself of the good experiences that put a smile on your face, being able to pack shed loads more in the load area, decent interior space for everyone, no more gadgets than you realistically need or will use, more likely to be let out of a junction flexibility for it to support more lifestyle activities than the A3 ever could. Also it’s now your own and an asset, not somebody else’s you are effectively hiring, less likely to be stolen. Flashy interiors are great to look at but for the amount of time you are in the car and driving it, you only spend time looking at the front screen, side windows, rear view mirrors and dials, less so the info system, and rarely anything else. To really appreciate its full potential, track day it with a coach or take advanced lessons in it to refine your own driving processes and exploit its ability and flexibility on road. Best thing I ever did for understanding a car’s character. it’s a Swiss Army knife of a car especially as a VRS wagon and in your case, the same colour.

It’s to do with parts choice and space at the point of fit in the assembly factory. Towbar prep will call for a single change to a specific list of parts that are laid down before other items cover them up. there will be 2 options, with or without prep and the Bill of Materials is digitally formed in line with the options chosen. The towbar is user specific and comes in a variety of dimensions, detachable or not, or market specific for which they cannot possibly validate and keep all the options available alongside the assembly track for the relatively low volume take up of each. The prep kit is only offered if a towbar is homologated for the chassis, therefore pick your bar and get it fitted. Even without prep, if you have towing weights shown on the VIN plate, the spec is homologated for towing that weight.

Not fully charging the battery saves energy otherwise taken from fuel. Stop Start batteries particularly AGM operate fine at 80% charged so there is no point using fuel to drive the alternator to charge to 100%. Off throttle coasting switches the alternator on to charge the battery above 80% so that it’s a ‘free’ charge that can be used for a while before the voltage drops and the alternator has to be engaged again. A standard flooded battery can’t handle the duty cycle as well as an EFB or AGM and wear out quicker.

Has anyone actually done this on a Fab III? I swapped the original EFB out for an AGM on ours and had the local VW specialist plug in to update it. Got told there was nothing to change and not charged for the 20 mins or so messing with it. Its been flawless for the last 8 months...

I tried that... ....couldn’t let go of the 5mm Allen key or Garmin Speedo for a week after. 😬

I asked if they could get an original. They said yes but I needed to pay the difference which was about £100 extra in all and a few days wait. I didn’t mind that as I’m a bit OCD in looking after my car and want original parts. Don’t ask, don’t get! All the original glass on the car has the Skoda logo in a corner.

I’ve stitched up small tyre tears with dental floss before now. But this one wasn’t salvageable...

I had Auto Windscreen's replace mine. They were going to use one of their own aftermarket screens but i paid extra and had a Skoda original fitted. I also told them it was my car and to look after it!! All the sensors were good and I can't fault the repair.

If you don't get a response from the dealership (or agent representing the seller you entered the financial agreement with) in a 'reasonable' amount of time, write back to them stating what you want, in that further to your previous communication dated ***, 1, An independent evaluation has found and stated in writing that the operation of the clutch system was defective and the fault has been identified with the mechanism outside of the excluded wearing parts listed in the vehicle warranty statement and present since the vehicle was built/prior to your ownership. 2, Under terms of the warranty, you expect the defective parts to be repaired or replaced and all other parts damaged as a consequence of the parts failure to be replaced at no further cost to yourself. 3, You allow them a stated time period to respond to the request with an appropriate plan of action (1 week from the date of the email/letter for example) 3a, (optional) You require a courtesy vehicle whilst yours is Off Road. (If you have one of theirs, it can speed up their decision making process) 4, If they fail to acknowledge the defect was present when the vehicle was built within the time stated or they fail to commit to carry out the repair to meet your reasonable expectations, state that you will make arrangement for the repair to be made elsewhere but you will seek to recover through legal means (Small claims court) ANY out of pocket expenses such as the cost of the repair, vehicle recovery services moving the vehicle to another repairer, time spent dealing with this issue at national minimum hourly wage rates, documented phone calls, costs of reasonable alternative transport arrangements made (bus, taxi, hire car, fuel@45p/mile and time of somebody else moving you about). Make a detailed record of your time and expenses accumilated whilst dealing with this since you presented the vehicle to them on day one of the failure. The more you detail, the more pressure you put on them to sort it out as they can see your costs are escalating. Don't get angry with them, it doesn't help. Be prepared to do what you state in writing to them otherwise they will not fulfil your expectations.

When you press your finger into genuine leather on the seat faces, it creates gentle folds pointing into the dip where your finger is. The plastic leather, on seat backs for example, doesn't do this. It just creates an even hollow around the finger tip.

The 1D code above on the motor housing is '400879' This snowflake breaks out into... *00401350A800R0711501120596*

If there is no other individual codes on the PCB, it will be a traceability code with the look up tables held by the PCB manufacturer for dates and bill of materials etc. Skoda won't necessarily know whats in this code unless they requested a breakdown of details from the supplier.

I have had this a couple of times where the clock is showing some random time and then it quickly resolves itself cycling the ignition of and on. 2016 owned from 6 months old with Amundsen head unit.