Baxlin

And did it pass he MoT retest without any problem?

Here’s mine: looks totally disorganised, but I know exactly where everything is.. Unfortunately I have to share it with Mrs B’s flower arranging stuff, and a freezer and tumble dryer

Sony must have changed then. When we bought ours, Sony only offered very few apps (YouTube, bbc iPlayer and the like), and there was no facility to add more, and no access to general Wi-Fi ie no surfing. Very annoying. We use iPads and chromecast, but contemplating replacing the tv.

That sounds simple enough, thanks

Forgive me, but I don’t understand your answer: my question is how do I start the heating/aircon from the app on my phone, ie before I get in the car - or do I misunderstand the whole concept? (my old 2002 Rover 75 had what was known as a ‘bathroom setting’ - a small diesel powered heater which you could start up on the key fob)

So how do I do this? App says that with ‘automatic wake-up’ selected, it can shorten the time needed to process requests sent from the app (eg starting heating). But it doesn’t say how I start the heating/AC. Car is mk3 facelift Octavia

Practice a bit more, then you won’t need to manoeuvre, just reverse straight to it… 👹👹👹 (says he who hasn’t towed for many years, and would definitely need a LOT of practice now…)

I’ve never given it a thought, as it’s a reversing camera, triggered by selecting reverse, and only needed when in reverse, so why (or even how) should it still be switched on when not reversing? While I might have missed something, I think I’d be more likely to be asking why the Audi one operates as it does. Having said that, Mrs B’s lowly Nissan Note has OE split screen 360deg cameras, and a facility to manually select the forward-facing picture, which turns off above parking speeds. But without selecting this, ie in normal use, it switches off when not in reverse, like the AliExpress ones.

Not a direct comparison, but I have an Octavia 3 hatch, my B-I-L has a Kia Sportage. Getting in and out of mine, front seats or rear, I have no problem, but getting into the front of his Kia I always catch my head, and the rears, well the doors are so short compared with mine (not to mention the legroom) that I find it very difficult to get in, and getting out I always seem to ‘slide’ down. I’m very much an OAP, a lot closer to 80 than 70, btw. And the boot space is significantly less than mine. So for me, it’s a no-brainer, the Estate every time.

Yes. Confirmation that you shouldn’t expect one strut to hold the tailgate up while you change the other one. Don’t ask me how I know. As it is heavy, I wouldn’t even rely on an assistant holding it up, I would use a broomstick or the like. Apart from that, it’s an easy, quick, and satisfying job! on a similar track, there’s a brilliant how-to on this (Octy 3) forum about replacing the bonnet stay with gas struts. It gives part numbers etc. I did mine a couple of years ago, again, an easy, and cheap mod, which raises the standard of the car imo.

Oops. I read your first paragraph to say the coasting would use more fuel. Humble apologies if that is incorrect.

Yes I know.

Thanks for only quoting part of my post. Read the next sentence: you won’t go the same distance on the overrun (ie in gear) as you will coasting, because of engine braking. So to go the same distance, ie lifting off say at the one bar distance sign, and coming to a stop as you leave a motorway, you’ll need to feed fuel in - at greater revs than tick over. However, I’ve made my point, accept it or not, and I refer you to my sig below

Doesn’t on my 18reg Octavia 1.4 TSI (I appreciate stop/start can be a pain, I often cancel that)

Well I for one like it. An earlier post suggested that fuel economy is worse when coasting, presumably as the engine is ticking over, whereas if left in drive the engine shuts off. The trouble with the engine shutting off is that you get engine braking, so if left, the car will come to a halt much sooner. So to hit the same stopping point as when coasting, you have to feed more fuel in. I find this particularly when leaving a motorway. So I don’t think it’s a valid argument. Looking back years, my Dad had a manual two-stroke SAAB 92, which had freewheel/coast in top gear, (OK, it was a two stroke, so it was probably a good idea, even a safety feature!) as did my 1987 Vauxhall Carlton 2ltr Auto. So it’s by no means a new feature. Q. Is it OK to freewheel on a pushbike, or should you have fixed wheel, and keep pedalling, using pedal pressure to aid braking?

Could you get to it with one of these?

OK, here’s another “back in my day” trend - rubber mats were very much a feature of only poverty spec models in the range, ‘de-luxe’ versions had carpets. I must admit I still subscribe to that view. (But then I don’t have a dog -wet or dry 🙂) another example of the time was chrome/no chrome! Both seem to have been reversed nowadays…

Carpet in the cabin, but boot liner with the rubber side up.

Typo error in my post above, should read ‘registered on 28th’ not 26th, sorry

If I read your post correctly, the car’s only had one MoT previously. I don’t think the ‘one month’ applies to the first test, ie a month before the 3rd anniversary of its first being registered. This is because there is no ‘previous Mot’ (referred to in the quotes) that’s running out. By my thinking, then, say the car was registered 26th Aug 2019, the first test would be due 28th Aug ‘22. But if you Mot’d it on 31st July, then the next and subsequent tests would be due 31st July. You could the do the next one earlier in July and preserve the 31st date. But unless you’d had its first text actually on 28th Aug, it’d never have that as a due date. My Octavia, for instance was first reg’d 27th March 18, but it’s first Mot was done 25th Feb 21, so the due date each year is 24th Feb, and can be carried out one month minus one day before the due date. If you do an Mot history check on the DVLA website, it should clarify everything. Apologies if I’m wrong, but it does explain the apparent ‘lost month’.

Reading the thread title literally, I wondered how you’d go about it…🤔

Mine don’t look dull or tarnished, but do have swirl marks. I use either Autoglym SRP or Poorboys Black Hole, both of which contain fillers, to hide them. It is only temporary but it only takes a few seconds to apply, so I do it each wash. Machine polish as said above seems a more permanent solution.

Don’t be a stranger - I still frequent forums for cars I sold years ago! And of course, remember that there’s a lot of knowledgeable folk on here, and many will have knowledge of JLR vehicles. So you know where to come when it goes wrong!! 🙂🙂 Malcolm

I know it was a long while ago, but I passed my bike test at 16, so had a year of building up my confidence and road sense before moving ‘up’ to a car at 17. I believe this helped, because you are more exposed on a bike. (Although seeing some L-plated idiots on scooters I might have to re-assess!) I’m in favour of anything that reduces accidents, especially those involving youngsters. Not least because, of my various grandchildren, one lad is 20, drives a company van, one girl is coming up to 18 and learning, another girl has turned 17 this week, also learning.

Thanks, would this affect the radar?